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Finally... a 3" brake duct solution for the Evo

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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #16  
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I always wondered this, so perhaps someone could chime in....

The "typical" ducting set up's that attach via the caliper bolts drive air to the back of the caliper and the rotor hat. This set up drives the air to the rotor...which is "better" as it relates to decreasing fluid boil and fade? Could a combination of both be the best solution i.e. run 2 separate 2" or 2.5" hoses? David Fazzino's ST-2 car has dual hoses and he doesn't have major issues with rubbing....
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #17  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Looking at internal cooling (veins) v. surface cooling one side (rotor face) allowing ambient to cool outward facing rotor surface.

If picking one, I prefer internal cooling since it works on both faces of the rotor.

More air cannot be bad though. I've seen other multi-cooling brake cooling setups.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Take a picture from this angle with the wheels at the lock for us please. Name:  IMG_1267.jpg
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Size:  125.4 KB
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:57 PM
  #19  
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nice a$$ setup keep me posted
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 06:30 AM
  #20  
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But how do turn the wheel without crushing the hoses?
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #21  
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I'm still waiting to hear if there is enough pressure with 3" ducting to force enough air to cool the brakes.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cfdfireman1
But how do turn the wheel without crushing the hoses?
Like I previously mentioned, you can't go full lock. I'm planning on spending some time this weekend to try and sort these issues out. I'll keep everyone posted.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by golgo13
I'm still waiting to hear if there is enough pressure with 3" ducting to force enough air to cool the brakes.
Why would pressure be an issue? Physics wasn't my major, however, moving a given amount of air through 3" hose will require less pressure than the same volume through 2" hose. If your average speed on track is 70 mph and the duct is located in a high pressure area (bumper), that's more than enough to move air four feet from the front of the car.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by evo3gsx
moving a given amount of air through 3" hose will require less pressure than the same volume through 2" hose.
Physics wasn't my major either, but I get some of the basic concepts.

Let's put this in layman's terms, for the both of us:
  1. Take a 1/4" diameter straw and a 1/2" diameter straw of the same length.
  2. Blow air through the 1/4" straw.
  3. Blow air through the 1/2" straw.
  4. Notice how you have to exhale harder to push air through the 1/2" straw?

That's what I'm talking about.

Sure, a 3" duct tube will pass air over the calipers, but how much? Will it be enough to cool the brakes effectively.

That's what I'm hoping to find out.

We can armchair this all day long, but until either of us has any concrete data (Such as tracking the same car on the same track on the same day with both size ducting and logging temps) we're pretty much spinning our wheels here.

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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #25  
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i agree with golgo on this one, flowing the same amount of air (i.e. volume) will require more pressure the bigger the tube your using. At a certain point you wont see gains simply by making the duct a wider diameter. Im not saying the 3" is the threshold but... This is how I see it, could be wrong... Happy Tracking
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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Are we seriously just pulling **** out of our asses here? Seriously some of the lastpost make me want to cry. The internet is always available for blind searching if nothing else. A bigger diameter hose will ALWAYS flow more air than a smaller one. Google Bernoulli's equation. You will need to use his compressible fluid equation since we are dealing with air. If you really think that a smaller hose flows more air, then next time you go snorkeling, take a straw and try to breathe through that.
That said, to truly determine if in this application the larger hose dumping to the heat shield location is better than the usual sized hose going to the gap in the heat shield location, you would want to do temperature and airflow data collection.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:44 PM
  #27  
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I'll wait until I see some data, thanks.
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by spdngdragon
Are we seriously just pulling **** out of our asses here? Seriously some of the lastpost make me want to cry. Google Bernoulli's equation. You will need to use his compressible fluid equation since we are dealing with air. If you really think that a smaller hose flows more air, then next time you go snorkeling, take a straw and try to breathe through that.
I love forums, they're such a great place to have an open discussion, share information and knowledge with anyone and everyone!

Anyway, after reading a bit more about Bernoulli's principle regarding his compressible flow equation, I believe that my straw analogy still holds.

Can we get a real engineer to chime in and clear up some of my conjecture? I'm not a fan of spreading misinformation!

spdngdragon, help me out here:
  1. Flow rate is constant (due to the mass of air and speed of the car remaining unchanged between ducting)
  2. Area was originally n but is now y (where n is 2" and y is 3")
  3. Pressure drops in the ducting due to the increase in area (flow volume)
  4. Velocity remains the same since the ducting diameter is constant in both cases once past the inlet

Thus, wouldn't you need a higher flow rate (vehicle speed in this case) to offset the pressure differential of ducting with smaller area (2")?

Using the interactive flash animation on this site really helped a layman like me understand the compressible flow equation:

http://mitchellscience.com/bernoulli...iple_animation


Last edited by golgo13; Sep 24, 2011 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #29  
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Golgo- I believe you are jumping the gun by assuming that you need pressure to cool the brakes. What makes you think you pressure is necessary?

Keep in mind that all pressure is is resistance to flow

Given that fact, the larger air ducting should provide for a drop in pressure (assuming at the given speed that there is any) and increase the flow if there was pressure before. One thing to consider is velocity of the air which is important but if you are using an inlet that is comparable to the diameter of the tube (larger inlet for a larger duct) you will be feeding from a great area and should see the same velocity of airflow.

This isn't like an exhaust system on an NA car (where there is much more pressure) where the exhaust is sized to promote maximum velocity to promote an upstream suction effect that helps fully evacuate the exhaust gas from the combustion chamber

I think you should be thinking more of total mass of air first, velocity of the air second, and pressure last.
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #30  
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Boltz is correct, we shouldn't even be considering pressure in this case. It's as simple as this: A larger surface area will allow more air to enter at the same velocity, increasing flow. If you do want to involve pressure, it's true that a larger hose will result in a pressure drop, but all that means is that at the same volume, there is less air velocity. If you take the inverse, at the same velocity there will be more volume. In either case, you're looking at flowing more air.
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