ok so i have a post on if i needed a center line kit which listed all my modds which are all power mods aside from lowering springs. I BOUGHT THE CAR LIKE THAT i am now doing the suspension for road racing and time attack. I have a stage 3 shep t case and tre trans. so the lsd is a ***** in the corners since i have no traction contol please keep in mind im coming from a EVO X where its night and day in handling. Also rear diff is stock. anyway im trying to keep it in the 1500$ range for coilovers and supporting parts. granted there is some give if it is needed. So who is running a budget suspension and have great results. with the power of 500+. Im seeing kits that seem to be really good as far as adjusting and spring rate goes starting at 900+. so any and all input is helpful thanks!

 

Really good at $900

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ad-racing.html

Search and read. You'll be rewarded. Or don't.

 

Relax, dude. No need to take it personal. You may or may not know this, but there are literally dozens of threads asking exactly this question. You may want to read some of the better suspension discussions, which can be found linked from here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-links.html

Now, the short answer to your question is: NONE worth buying

On a $1500 budget, here is what you should consider if you truly want to get the most bang for your buck, handling wise:

1. Keep your stock struts - assuming they are still in ok shape. If not, shop for some used Bilstein struts.
2. Swift Spec-R springs. These are the highest spring rate you can get for your stock struts and work very well with any of the stock struts.
3. TRE rear diff. Best handling mod I made to my '03.
4. Bushings'n-things:
4a. Rear trailing arm bushings and rear bumpsteer correction kit. This will help braking stability. A lot less tail wagging under heavy braking on my '03.
4b. Front roll center adjustment kit (fixes geometry), Perrin PSRS (adds caster, replaces rubber front LCA with solid bushing)
5. Larger (preferably adjustable) front swaybar and swaybar bushings
6. Alignment: Camber -2F/-1.25 to -1.5R, 0 Toe all around

So, cost-wise where does this put you? Alot of that will depend on how much DIY is involved. Cost for parts:
1. FREE, or if you need a new set anywhere from $200 to $750
2. About $315 or so
3. $400 for just the diff. Figure some cost to pull the diff, ship it, and put it back in.
4a. $60, $65
4b. $200, $240
5. $290
6. $60 to $150 depending on the shop

Assuming your struts are ok and no other bushings need replacement, that puts you at ~$1570 for parts plus the cost for an alignment and labor (if any). If you can't do any of your own work, labor to install this stuff will easily cost $500. The end result will be a well balanced setup that will out handle any but the most expertly setup coilover setups. Don't believe me, SEARCH. There are plenty of documented instances of this.

Now, you could go with some bottom-basement coilovers in the $1000-$1500 range. However that won't really leave you much, if anything for supporting mods. The main culprit of the USDM Evo 8 understeer (apart from the 60/40 weight distribution) is the rear diff, just adding coilovers is at best a band-aid for this. Lack of a front LSD in the '03 also doesn't help, so I'd put that on my wish list as well.

I will also reiterate: if you don't already have track experience (and even if you do), whatever else you do, detune your power for your first couple of track days. 20-23 psi boost max. Even better if you can do your first track day on all-season or similar crappy tires. This will not only teach you what to expect from your car more safely, it will also allow you see how things hold up under extended abuse.

Lastly, I also didn't see any mention of the two most critical areas of road racing - tires and BRAKES. Need to budget and think about these two before suspension mods. You'll want better brake fluid, SS brake lines, dedicated track pads, and ditch the drilled/slotted rotors.

l8r)

 

Hey, I posted a link

OP - was being serious, there is a wealth of info here at your finger tips. You'll be more rewarded for reading it over being spoon fed.

 

^Sorry about that. The relax dude was aimed at the OP. Far be it from me to tell Mr. Mother****er anything. I do wonder though ... how many mothers do I have to do before I can add the Mr.

l8r)

 

Ludikraut's post is almost verbatim from his reponse to the OP's Whiteline thread. LOL

 

Subtlety is not a German strong suit.

l8r)

 

How much driving experience do you have?

- Andrew

 

Ah...no comment

And how competitive do you want to be? First? Mid-pack? Babe-hunting?

 

Ah, the infamous "my wife will kill me" setting...you really shouldn't let everyone in on this limited edition mod...

 

ive done a good amount of track time from drag-road racing. im not looking to be sponcered or anything but i do try and push it as much as i can while im out there. Im looking to be kept in the street class but i dont know what my times will be or if they will let me with the 35r ive been racing my x before it was wrecked and my srt4 which had a 30r and they didnt have an issue with me being in the class but the 35r might be to much... duno what class ill end up in but doesnt matter much becuase if i end up in a class im not ready for i guess itll push me that much more now wont it.

 

but i was leaning for the bc-rs coilovers with new solid bushings and supporting modds.

 

u should check out the forsale section. someone just put up robispec kw clubsports for sale.
these have really good reviews.

 

Drag-road racing? Ah, drag /= road racing

Street class = street tire? What series? NASA, SCCA?

sujinX has it right. Used GTWorx or Robi KW if you MUST get coilovers. Otherwise, GTWorx should be called for a nice say...Bilstein and GTWorx or SpecR + sway bar setup.