We are going to test two sets first, depending on results maybe more at another time.

Where's you list?! I know you have one, you were fast at the shootout.

 

Good thread...Ill have to post my info later...

 

first page.

 

Depends on the track. Rebound, compression and valving are a mystery to a lot of us. And the lower end stuff just lacks all of this with regards to adjustablity.

A capable driver could run 10k / 12k and be great with a 140 street tire or a 285 Hoosier. That's a great starting number btw and what I recommend people all the time. If you're worried about DD ride quality step down to 8k/10k or 9k/10k.

If you're doing heavy aero, that's really where you should start looking to buck up your rates imo. My .02

 

^^I'm close to Boom's comment as far as setup.

Old Paul Gerrard spec Ohlins, 10k front, 12k rear. Whiteline RCA and ES bushings. 17x9.5 wheels with 255.40 140 rated tires. The car handles way better than my handling capabilites allow, but everyone who's driven likes it.

One reason why I like my Ohlins is the serviceability. That alone makes it worth the price up front for them. I plan to get mine rebuilt this winter, and PSI are going to make them brand spanking new again, with whatever spec I want. Thats not something easily attainable with those "cheapy" brands.

 

^ How much per shock is it to get your 'new\rebuilt' ohlins

 

I think revalving standard is 120-150 per corner. If something is broken, then obviously it will go up in price from there.

 

My 'cheap' BCs are 100 per shock for life ,,,,, valved the way you ask , shock dynod , and truly brand new as its a full replacement body and everything .I really hope dave trys a set of these . maybe ill send him mine

 

WHAT SUSPENSION IS CURRENTLY ON YOUR EVO?

kw variant3 650lbs front 600 rear

WHAT PRICE DID YOU PAY FOR YOUR SUSPENSION?

~$2400 new about 3 years ago

IF YOU HAVEN'T BOUGHT A SUSPENSION YET WHAT PRICE RANGE ARE YOU LOOKING AT? 0-$500. $500-$1000. $1000-$2000. $2000+.

Looking at a high end double or triple adjustable setup with remote reservoirs, either Mouton, JST, or AST

ARE YOU GOING TO RUN THE STANDARD SPRINGS RATES THAT COME ON THE COIL OVERS YOU INTEND TO BUY OR SOMETHING CUSTOM?

definitely custom spring rates. Moutons are nice because they offer your a spring "package" with multiple rates for tuning.

IF YOU ARE GOING TO RUN A CUSTOM SPRING RATE WILL YOU BE PAYING TO HAVE THE COIL OVERS RE-VALVED?

custom valving will be required

WHAT ALIGNMENT SETTINGS DO YOU RUN/PLAN TO RUN AND DOES IT CHANGE FROM THE TRACK TO THE STREET?

currently running -2.8 camber front, 0 toe, -1.5 rear 0 toe. This is expected to change for next season.

WHAT SIZE TIRE WILL YOU BEING COMPETING ON?

285/35/18

WHAT TYPE OF TIRE WILL YOU RUN MOSTLY?
1. Street tire tread wear 139 and under.
2. Street tire tread wear 140 or over.
3. DOT race tire, like A6, C51 etc.
4. Full race tire.

DOT race tires. Most likely Kumo's for longevity, but Hoosiers are good for the best performance. Also looking at a new Goodyear tire, but limited availability might affect that choice.

 

Dave,
FWIW, the 255 A6 is the EXACT same width as a 275 A6. the 255 has a much MUCH shorter sidewall. i found i was getting excessive tire roll over with the 275 even with a lot of pressure. i went to the 255's and with the 1 event i have one them am VERY impressed with them. i went from being in the top 10ish in the raw times to 2nd last event with 99% of the same drivers there.
nothing else changed on the car.
car currently has-
Ohlin coils
whiteline front sway
whiteline bump steer kit
whiteline roll center kit
robi spec rear bar (too big, going to softer bar after i do the diff rebuild)

the car is pretty simple as far as mods go, but does fairly well at autox.

I also plan on rebuilding the coils this winter at psi to run 12k rear. i will leave the 10k fronts alone.

cant wait to see what next year brings!

 

ChrisW.... What wheel width and offset are you running with the 285/35/18? Those tires are tall!!

Just curious.... Any rub on full lock?

 

Thank you all for the input. For reference Apexi, which is the "cheap" coil over I run on my car, is rebuilt here in the states at Apexi and the cost is $80 for revalving.

How many of you guys with 10K+ fronts and 12k+ rears drive the car on the streets often and actually can honestly say the ride quality is good?

 

I would say 8k/10k would be a good rate for this test. Honestly after swapping from 7k/9k to 9k/11k I barely feel a difference in ride quality but I did go from no named springs to swifts.

 

I can't say the ride quality is great, but i have no problems with it. I daily drive my car, and take it on long business trips, and autox and race. I have 133k on it now.

 

I'm doing a complete tear down and rebuilt, not just revalving. The shock will have all new internals and will also have it clean with new zinc coating. PSI quoted me $225 per shock and $70 each for zinc coating. Should be like new when done.