^^haha, alright coo! Well I'll be going with that map stage2 but with the StopTech pads.
Thanks for the input!

 

..if he were still here. One question, how long does it take for you to cook the ATE compared to say Motul?

 

^^ great question since that is the reason why I'm looking for new brakes

 

I run a 3600 lbs comp weight S197 on ATE Blue in Great Lakes Time Trials (arguably one of the roughest/fastest regions). It lasts me my normal 3 event schedule. Or all summer if I don't race that car.

 

how many "Hot Laps" in a time trial?

 

Dude your pedal gets that 'spongy' feeling because of your break lines, NO OTHER REASON.
Stock break lines swell when put under heavy load and under heavy heat from aggressive breaking. The best and really only solution to that problem is stainless steel lines. Ask anybody. Best bang for your buck, no matter the company.

Break fluid and break pads are all 'give and take'.

Good 'race' pads will make noise, give you dust up the ***, and warp your rotors quick. So listen to these people who have personal experience with specific companys and products. Find that happy medium.

Break fluid goes hand in hand with your new SS break lines. You want a fluid that wont change its characteristics under heat/load.

 

I run for the full 20 mins x5 sessions Generally laps 2-4 are my best times.

Race pads to not warp rotors. That is pad material deposit. Switching brands (street to track) increases the likelihood of material deposit. Fresh race pads themselves do not.

 

Way to re-word and get more into detail to my blunt, but correct statement. There's nothing to prove here, but thank you for clarifying.

By me saying that race pads warp rotors quicker, I obviously meant that the pads materials do...I mean what else comes in contact with the rotors????.....the pads compound.
Or it could be the Brembo sticker on the outside of the caliper that warps your rotors

 

What he was saying was that race pads dont warp the rotor surface, but rather the race pads leave a deposit on the rotor surface.

 

Clarity is king. People tend to read and then think the literal "warp". The surface does not deflect.

This

 

I do the same but use Motul and ATE. Sure makes it brainless

 

so whats the best route for around $500 then ?

 

For a bit more its worth to get the pads SMIKE recommended. The stage 2 comes with the ss lines and the fluid, makes it a bit cheaper at the end.

 

ATE still sux, listen to the guys at the track that go there a lot. Pretty blue color is nice and all but you'll be flushing or at least bleeding twice as often.

 

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