Im sure those lines are fine but in the interest in saving $ I'd just get these:

http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/60...el+Brake+Lines

I've been using them for at least a couple years now and no issues whatsoever as have many other folks on here. And if you havent already granted its a little too late this round but take a look at this thread:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ct-thread.html

 

Well now that you say that, I might just get those lines. Good to know not all cheap parts are built cheap. Need to change my fluid anyways.

That thread is actually what persuaded me to go with slotted instead of drilled.

 

Yeah I'd recommend them given that I've had no issues whatsoever along with many others who also track their cars. They also have the proper certifications to make them DOT approved. Not to say that the Stoptech ones arent as they are as well and Im sure are also a quality product.

Also the other thing to note is that there are two different versions of the lines and I believe some 06's were one style while the others were a different style so make sure you get the correct ones for your 03.

 

When I first bought my car I did an auto-x event in my stock car on stock wheels wrapped in Michelin Pilot Super Sports. They had a surprising amount of grip. That said, if you're going to have a set of auto-x wheels/tires I would recommend going with something in the 200 treadwear range (BFG Rival, Dunlop ZII, Hankook RS3). Many clubs are already adopting the 200 rating even though SCCA isn't until 2015 so just go ahead and conform. Both the Rival and the ZII are better in the wet than the RS3. I ran my ZIIs at one rainy event, multiple 95+ degree events, and one 40-60 degree event and was very happy with their performance in all of them. They seem to be happy in the 38-40 psi range.

 

UPDATE

Transmission repairs are going to cost me way more than anticipated.
Evidently the screw up that rebuilt the transmission for the previous owner installed some things upside down. (I think Chad said shift sleeves...?) Which caused gears 1, 2, and 5 to be completely useless along with the output shaft.
Chad Hayes seems to know what he's doing and the guys at evodynamics recommend him so I'm looking forward to getting my car back so I can start breaking in the transmission before that first fluid change. I also got a 4.11 FD upgrade.

TL;DR
I'm probably going to get:
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...229&vid=008389
bridgestone s03 pole position since they seem to be about all I need and they're next to cheapest at discount tire, along with the fact that there's a discount tire in the next city from where I live. I think imma put my brakes together and remount my 18s, then order my tires for the 17s and take the car with my rims to discount tire to install them. Alot of my friends around here speak highly of the service at this particular store for some reason, but they also all own huge trucks.

If this thread is still alive, does anyone have opinion on this tire? idk how I feel about the 280 tread wear, but my other option is
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...669&vid=008389
Falken fk453 which would only save me about $50, but looking at the 300 treadwear, they should last longer.

There's also the
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...451&vid=008389
Michelin Pilot super sport, which terror rising already suggested, but that's another $200 I could put somewhere else.

 

My opinion I'd say go with the hankook rs3's. I've done tons of research on brake pads and the best bang for buck is ebc redstuffs, I love them for autox. Also, I'd highly recommend getting front and rear sway bars. I went with whitelines and they were quite the eye opener doing autox.

 

FK453 are not going to be sticky enough, they are just too hard a tire..been there done that. Other people have posted on here about the Rival and ZII....ZII are better in the wet and since you are DD it, they would be a more logical choice. The Rival and RS3 are also good choices. None of those are cheap. Personally I use the ZI and have ordered ZII. My car is DD on those even in the winter here in Atlanta.

I use EBC yellowstuff they stop better than the Redstuff, dust the same and are more heat tolerant. They dont dust much on DBA slotted rotors ( MR BBS's wash them every 2 weeks just like the stock pads ) Still not really designed for heavy cars like the EVO. For the Ultimate in stopping use the BlueStuff, they WILL take the heat from track days but be warned, they need a little heat in them to stop. Drag the brake on cold mornings so you dont get a bit of a surprise..:-)

From your posts it is looking more like you really have cost issues. Evo's are expensive to repair and maintain...

If you just want to go autox and have fun then sure, go with the FK453, it will slide a bit and you end up with a grin tossing the car around...just dont expect to be competitive..

 

WRC-LVR
Thanks, this is the type of response I was looking for in this thread.
So Falkens are out, which means I'm probably getting the bridgestones unless I put in a little more overtime this week.
Another thing I want in a tire is a Y rating so I'm not afraid of the top end if something comes up, and that's how I have my searches filtered which is probably why I'm coming up with nothing but 300+ treadwear, but I guess W rating would be okay since I'm rarely ever going to see top speed.
Regarding the rs3s. Can I really get 2 years of autox out of a tire with 140 treadwear?
Someone said earlier in the thread that a good set of autox tires should last about 2 years with proper rotation.

 

Also, idk much about tire width and contact patch etc.
What's the widest tire I can run on the stock rim?
I'm just assuming that wider tire means more/better contact patch, but I also see that tirerack and discounttire don't offer any of these recommended tires in 235/45-17.

 

I would be targeting 245/40 or a 255/40 for the stock wheels. You will find conflicting opinions of whether the extra 10mm of the 255 is worth the loss in response on the stock wheel.

I run 245/40 Dunlop ZIIs on stock BBS for autocross duty, at least until I get some meaty r-comps in a year or so.

 

How long tires will last in auto-x is dependent on many things besides proper rotation. Don't get me wrong, proper rotation including remounting so the worn outside edge is on the inside should not be overlooked. Treadwear, rotation, sidewall stiffness, pressure, alignment, and DD mileage will all impact how long they last. I've only got 2000 miles on my ZIIs but since I run with three different car clubs they're already showing some age.

As far as contact patch and sidewall TireRack will tell you min and max rim widths for a tire. There's also a tire/rim calculator link at the top of this page that will tell you rolling diameters as your width and aspect ratios are changed.

 

^^ +1.

I bought my ZIIs last July. Put about 3k miles of street use on them and close to 50 autocross runs (some on VERY rough concrete and ~2 min times). Did not rotate them. Took them off recently and its obvious I will need to get another set this year. But I think I might have 1/2 a season left in them, especially if I can score some cheap wheels and tires for the street, then I run them till they cord. Wear is darn close to even w/ 3 deg of front camber. I guess it wouldve been worn shoulders if I didn't have the camber... Needless to say Im happy. I originally thought I was going to get 2 years of autocross and mixed street driving in, but 1.5 is sort of okay with me. Just rotating fronts to rear mid way probably would've bought me enough rubber for 2 years.

Everyone's experience will vary. I know I gave mine hell last year, so Im happy.

Im going to get another set of 245/40s this year. And hopefully in 2015 go to big rcomps before the ZIIs go away again.

 

I think I just found where I'll be purchasing my brakes from now on. I don't know how they sell those DBA rotors that cheap when some vendors are selling just the fronts for $300+. Lots of useful info in here.

 

I think I read somewhere that the brake lines are different from year to year on the evo8.
Anybody know of a walkthrough for installing SS lines on an 03 evo8?
Prolly gonna go ahead and get:
http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/60...el+Brake+Lines

having a coupon code would be nice as well lol

 

Then again I can get:
Centric Parts
950.46005
and
950.46504
from rockauto for a few $ less.