I have the printout.

I'm guessing it's the way the bolts are flipped. I may flip them and go in for another check.

I'm going to get under there again and see what's going on.

 

Yes you flip the eccentric camber bolts to adjust camber. You get about -.9 on one setting and -1.8 on the other.

 

So, I changed my outer tie rod ends tonight. Easy enough.

I was also going to change my inners, but I couldn't find the tool to loosen them.

One thing I noticed, from the passenger's side, I could see the yellow D-shaped bushing between the steering rack and the subframe from the Whiteline steering precision kit. Maybe I had overtorqued it when I installed it, but it was no longer properly oriented. I managed to loosen the bolts and straighten the bushing. Then tightened it back down. Wonder if that could have made a difference.

I'll go in for an alignment check tomorrow.

I also flipped my camber bolts. Interested to see what that gives me.

 

There is more to be had than with just flipping the bolts. You can load the suspension with the bolts lose or even use a good size pry bar and or move the top mounts some to get exactly what you want for camber.

aggieEVO what kind of numbers did you end up with?

 

1.6 on one side, 1.5 on the other, I think. That is plenty for my daily driving.

Toe was 0 up front. They didn't listen and put toe to factory spec back in the rear. I'll have them change it back to 0 after I install my bump steer correction.

I put in new tie rod ends. Hopefully they do the trick. I went to do my inners but Autozone didn't have the right tool for rent.

 

One other item to keep in mind is that the alignment machine they have needs to be calibrated and the heads need to be in good shape. If they drop the heads or havent had the system calibrated in a while that would and could lead to settings that are way off--but could show to be rt on. May want to look at another shop-- since they dont really seem to be listening to your specific requests anyway-- just my .02. GL

 

You can find the inner tie rod tools at Harbor Freight or rented at Advance Auto Parts.

So far at 100k and some hard driving miles and a year + of rallycross that I have had to replace 3 inner tie rods. They are hard to get too but not impossible. Mostly flattening the lock washer with a hammer and some blunt tool causes most of my grief.

I found that the inner tie rod failure can cause that tire wear you were showing. Also on another occasion I had the rear bearing/bushing combo of the lower control arm break loose in the control arm. Worth having someone look at those too.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I replaced my inners (although they were still in good shape with no play). I had the car aligned nicely with the camber bolts set to the aggressive setting. I think it was about -1.5. I rotated my tires after about 5000 and had some inner wear. Given that I drive the car about 60 miles a day lately, I went ahead and set it on the other setting. Unfortunately, I should have taken it in for an alignment right after. I destroyed my almost new front tires again. I had -.7 degrees of toe. Ouch.

My rears are still very meaty. I'm going to order another pair and not touch it for a while. Too many other things to do.