I am at the point of putting my new arms on with the PSRS bushings, I got the added caster ones. They are proving to be a pain to install.
First having to cut my old arms off, then burn the bushing off, then cut the inner sleeve
off the bolt.
Now I cant get the holes to line up whether I do the front or back bushing first. I feel like if I could get something to clamp and push the arm into place I could probably get it since Anyone else had this issue installing them?

Pics:

 

Isnt the PSRS an eccentric bushing? Cant you rotate the PSRS so you can get the front inserted. I had work done to my LCA's but have not done the work myself

What do the install instructions say?

EDIT: found the PDF on line. Read item 6 & 8. There is a specific orientation of bushing needed to fit. & some grinding of the subframe is needed

http://perrinperformance.com/attachment/74806-.pdf

 

I am not sure from the pictures if the orientation of the bushing is correct.

Here is a thread that shows the bushing in the correct orientation.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...rs-review.html

Spacer on top IMO is preferred.

It should be slightly difficult but lining up with a lady's foot should do the trick.

If not something likely is amiss.

 

Yes the oroenation is correct. I lined up the axis lines with the front bushing and the lettering is visible from the bottom.

I ended up grinding (just a very little bit) off the side of the inner bushing sleeve that was hitting the subframe and it popped right into place.

When I say a little but I mean very little. I just took off the ribbing on the side and gave it a try. So to anyone that reads this, having this issue, try that.

 

Lining up the LCA's I thought sucked. With a lift or a 2nd set of hands Im sure it would have been cake. But Between the spacers falling out and needing leverage to get the bolts lined up I didnt enjoy bolting them back on.

Did you clearance your underside of the vehicle so the LCA's wouldn't hit? If not I would recommend you do that or else it'll most likely make a knocking noise. Ill look through my photos and see if I snapped a pic of what I did so they wouldnt hit but IIRC there should be a few pics floating around on here...

 

I have driven it probably 150 miles since install and havent had any knocking noises and I didn't clearnace the frame. I was under the impression that it would only knock if you had installed the small bushing on the top (anti-dive).

 

The whole anti-dive anti-lift stuff still confuses me but this is what I was told and what I found. In my case I installed the spacer on the top and was informed that would provide additional clearance relative to having it on the bottom.

After I bolted on the LCA I put each side through a full stroke with the knuckle disconnected and found that it would make contact in the top of its stroke. To alleviate the issue I bashed in part of the body and also filled a very small amount off the outside of the LCA until they no longer made contact. I couldn't find my pics but I know some are floating around. If I were you I would get the car back up in the air and make sure it isnt making contact. It could just be that you havent hit a bump hard enough yet for it to clunk...

 

Im guessing everyone with the PSRS offset bushing has gone through this same thing. I just get the front bushing bolt in first then pry control arm out a little bit to get the rear (vertical) bolt in.

Make sure you actually torque your front bolts. With the slight bending load on the bolt from the bushing, Ive had mine loosen up on me. Hasn't happened since I started torqueing.

 

I only had to dent it a very little bit to fit the spacer in, but I didn't use the pro lift feature, just centered it.


I also installed the vertical rear bolt first, didn't fully tighten it, made sure the ball joint was in and bolted in and locked in place but didn't torque yet, squeezed the front bolt on by pushing on the brake caliper and it went right in.


All in all the install was much easier than I expected, I was surprised.


I think the pro lift feature is was gives you guys a hard time with rubbing issues, I did the regular centered setting like the OP and havn't had any issues.

 

The anti-anti lift or pro lift feature requires the spacer to be fitted on top of the LCA which moves the arm away from the body, thus increasing clearance if anything. Note that Perrin confuses anti-lift with anti-anti lift or pro-lift. In contrast Whiteline got the description right but there piece has much less caster added (.5*) than the added caster Perrin piece - I was able to get 4.3* caster on stock struts. Also, I am not sure how Whiteline gets their pro-lift - is their bushing offset or does it come with spacers? I believe not. The nice thing about Whiteline is a dust boot.

Quote from the installation instructions:

EVO 9*installation: Install SS bushings into PSRS making sure to put the medium spacer on bottom and taller spacer on top. (....). At this time, decide whether to install*short*SS spacer*on bottom (ZERO Anti-*‐lift) or top (Added Anti-*‐lift).

Pro-lift makes the front suspension more supple, decreases anti-dive, improves front end traction on acceleration and decreases understeer. Pro-lift also minimally drops your front roll-center (not desirable) but especially used with RCK it is negligible.

It is a great mod that addresses a whole bunch of Evo front suspension issues, like too soft an LCA bushing that results in erratic steering especially over bumps; then there is pro-lift to decrease understeer and improve traction on corner exit, increased caster, better turning circle.

Install is a pain. 2 people are preferred. If you want to minimize the clearancing you will be taking the LCA off a few times in most instances. Either a die grinder (for LCA) or an air hammer (for frame rail) or both are useful to have at hand. Some people suggest that Evo 8 is worse than 9, eg less clearance to frame rail but not sure on this.

The real downer is that Perrin no longer supplies the Evo market - going the same way as AMS. Some vendors still have stock though. Not sure if the bits available for other cars may fit the Evo minus the spacers.
*

 

X2. First one took me a couple hours to figure this out, second about 15 min to do start to finish. You can also use a long screw driver in the rear vertical bolt to get it close, then hold it where it is and stab the bolt in, hoping it starts threading in.

If the axis of the PSRS isnt perfect when it was pressed in, it will make lining that vertical bolt up harder to do.

 

Which is really difficult because mine twisted when we pressed it in

 

The anti-lift/pro-lift is some what deceiving. The factory geometry has some anti-dive/anti-lift in it, they are the same thing here.

Putting the spacer on top reduces this angle slightly. It's not "pro-lift" or "pro-dive" though.

As somebody mentioned, you have to put the front joint in first, then force the arm over to get the rear bolt in.

Or you can use an actual spherical bearing in the front so you aren't forcing the front joint to bind up. Then everything drops in nice and smoothly.

 

did you end up figuring out what went wrong here?

When i installed my psrs, i noticed the bolt was kinda hard to get in too. I had to pull on the arm to get it aligned right, but mine wasn't as off as yours.

 

I think when we pressed the PSRS in it turned some, I lined it up perfectly and measured it a hundred times before and after and it freaking turned. it was a pain in the dick to get the original bushings out without bending the arm so we just left it since it didn't turn it by much. I think being turned was the key.
They have to go in perfectly straight or it will be extra tight.

I can't remember which way it turned. I want to say that when you are looking at the bottom of the arm, it turned clockwise a bit. if it had gone anti clockwise it'd probably have been even easier to install.