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Teflon bushing questions in the lower & trailing arms

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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 03:59 PM
  #16  
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From: Marietta GA
My inboard bushing on the rear suspension shock arm is set to have the offset hole at 6 oclock as I described looking at it. Arm is slightly angled down more then towards the wheel.

The topic of the Front suspension LCA hasn't come up, but with lowering springs, you need to use the longer ball joint from Whiteline to move the outer part of the arm lower and avoid going parallel. Use of the Whiteline steering rod end also helps with minimizing bumpsteer under travel.

An alternate to the ball joint when using the shorter springs ie like Swifts but use a 1 " spacer on the strut top hat between the strut and the body which will effectively do the same thing as the ball joint , just by moving the whole strut/suspension etc down 1".

BTW Paranoid Fabrication makes these for Subies and will make them on demand for the EVO

Last edited by WRC-LVR; Jan 10, 2015 at 05:05 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #17  
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From: Massachusetts
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
nope Superpro is a PU with offset metal sleeve as i indicated. IIRC it is two pieces and the metal sleeve.
Wouldn't going from spherical to poly be a downgrade then unless the altering to geometry makes up for it?
Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
My inboard bushing on the rear suspension shock arm is set to have the offset hole at 6 oclock as I described looking at it. Arm is slightly angled down more then towards the wheel.
That makes sense and is how I would visualize it as its in essence moving the mounting point of the LCA upward which will help to keep the arms from going below parallel. I'd be curious as to what my rear LCA's look like. I'm back to Bilsteins and Robispec springs for the winter time so I cant check right now but I had my car corner balanced on my coils and the rears ended up pretty low which always concerned me...

I have a lot to learn which is why I actually picked these up for Christmas per the recommendations of a couple folks on here and now you:
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 03:03 PM
  #18  
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From: Marietta GA
Yep those are the books. Note that fsb going bigger on fwd or awd can reduce understeer if the change is small and the spring rates not too high ( flatter, less rollover onto the outside front.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 03:04 PM
  #19  
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From: Marietta GA
in the case of that bushing, I dont think you lose much at all. You do gain adjustability and moving the pivot point so prolly better. IMHO :-)
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 08:02 AM
  #20  
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Thanks for your feedback. I may hold off on that bushing for now. I'm curious to see if my LCA's are past parallel so I need to get my coils back on first. Also, if I find that the bushings are worn then I will certainly replace it but it may make sense for me to hold off for now. Maybe I'll just pick up the lower shock bushing for now(as you said from the beginning)and call it a day.

I have a lot of changes in store this winter the biggest being going from a 255 to a 285 but Im also about to send in my coils for a revalve and up the rates again. I don't want to change too much at once as then it will be next to impossible to tell what change did what.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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From: Marietta GA
Remember the inboard bushing is a pivot point. And the pivot is actually the bolt going thru the offset spacer. A little grease and no difference from a spherical as it only moves in one plane around the bolt. :-)

Milburn
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