I am guessing you meant 1/16" of toe in not toe-out. When the car travels down the road it tries to toe the wheels out. You don't want to start with any toe or a little toe in.

 

nope....I meant what I said. A little toe out (1/16" TOTAL) is good - helps high speed stability, and helps to "self straighten" the wheel when unwinding steering lock in a corner. I have been racing and prepping cars for quite a while (14 years of working on IMSA, Speedvision, Vintage, Sportscar and street cars). Toe in makes the car feel darty, with a strange transition from straight to turn. Remmber I am only talking about 1/16" total (1/32" each side) very close to zero toe........

 

Well I don't agree with you so we might as well leave it at that.
Toe out is bad for tires. On a race car it's fine because you don't expect them to last but on a common street car it is detrimental.
Also I am talking about a minimal amount of toe in or 0 toe. Ultimately 0 toe going down the road will create some toe out, but I don't agree with starting with toe-out statically.
I am talking about the street car point of view, which a majority of people are looking at. After aligning my car after installing springs I ended up with 1.5 or so negative camber and am buying camber plates to take some of that out. At the end of the day I don't want to be unneccessarily replacing tires for wear for the given advantage of extra camber.

 

We can certianly agree that toe out (or in for that matter) wears out your tires quickly - so yes, zero toe is best for tire wear. Did your car wear out the tires quickly with zero toe and 1.5 degrees of camber?? Usually camber doesnt play as huge a role in tire wear - toe is much more destructive.

 

No. Given the horrible factory settings, the springs made that even worse so I pretty much aligned it right away. After the springs there was close to an inch of toe out. .77 of it was on one side alone.
I don't drive the car every day. I do a lot of city type driving to and from work so I usually take the beater (automatic) unless the weather is nice then I will take the Evo. For a large corporate building, none of them know how to open a car door without hitting the car next to them. My old car was horrible from parking there so when I drive the Evo I park way out to avoid the idiots.

 

an inch of toe out makes for one evilhandlingsonova***** EVO!

 

The problem with the car that started the post definitely seemsto be alignment related. I would also bet that when you get the car aligned properly you will again feel the happiness.

As far as the "toe-in, toe-out" issue....I would bet that the car is in a bunch. imagine both wheels toed in towards the centerline of the vehicle, you go to make a left turn, you will have to turn the wheel that much further (more input) to overcome the "toe-in" to make the same radius taht you would with a wheel that is "toed out" slightly. In a perfect world, yes, zero toe would be best with regards to rolling friction, tire wear etc. (I have seen cars at PIR (Portland) running too much toe-out and the cvar is slow in the traps at the end of the front straight....it does make a difference. However, for the most part, like OGVW stated, a slight ammount of toe-out is quite useful on many road courses, as well as spirited driving. It helps the car to turn in!!! Period, this is where you see and feel it most, on "turn-in". If you go too far on the toe setting, the car will turn too much and will have a tendancy to "oversteer"......balance Daniel-San.

Oviously, suspension tuning has many variables, eliminating them one at a time is the best way to go.


BTW.... toe-out increases twitchyness at high speed. Less toe-out at fast tracks, more at tight ones.

-peace

 

I just got springs installed last week, does anyone know about how much is to get the alignment done?

 

High Techs and H-Tech's are the same springs.

 

On my car, I have the front end in toe out. Toe out quickens the steering, therefore it makes the car feel more 'twitchy'. You only need a little, the 1/16th inch recommended earlier is good. You have to remember, when you get on the brakes, the car toes out naturally, so if you have too much, you'll wear the inside of the tires fast.

If you're looking for more straight line stability, have them set the front to toe in. The steering is already quick to begin with, and this setting should help for those using the cars as daily drivers by allowing the car to be more stable at speed.

 

I am so confused, what the hell do I set my car to? I have these settings...


LF: RF:
Camber:
-1.45* -1.50*

Toe:
0.00* 0.00*

Caster:
+3.38* +3.41*

LR: RR:
Camber:
-.59* -.61*

Toe:
+.15* +.14*


and then I get these....


WTF do I do?????????????????

 

what he said is

 

I think your current setting is fine.....if you want a even better handling...set the rear toe to 0.

I have -1.8 front camber on L&R
-0.7 rear camber......and all toe is 0. Car handle great in autox, and should also have good tire wear.

 

Your setup looks pretty good - just set the rear toe to zero and dial in 1 degree of negative camber and you'll be in there like swimwear!!

 

Therein lies the answer.......who told you you could put springs in and not get it realigned should go back to school