Need some opinions and advice on Fortune Auto Coilovers
 

Allright ya'll so here is the short and sweet. I have been running KW V3's (off the shelf units) for a few years now. My Evo is a strictly a track car now and while the KW's have been amazing I feel my car and I have out grown the current suspension. I wanna stick with a 2 way adjustable sytem.

So here is the question? I know KW's are amazing (I am looking at some Robi Spec Race KW's) but has anyone had good results with the Fortune Auto Titan 2 ways? I realize KW is a mega company with a ton of research in their products but I do like to support the small guys sometimes (fortune auto).

Are the KW's worth a $1000 more?

Thanks, Tim

GTWorx JRZ coils with swift springs and vorshlag plates is THE most advanced system for ~4k$

The off the shelfs with the wrong spring rates?

If so, you will be amazed when you get a set that has the correct rates in it.

GTWorx JRZ, xxyzz, Moton, Penske, Olhins are all worth researching.

Have you thought about re-springing them and revalving to match? (lower cost option)

Yes...

Yeah I running out of the box rates. (which I thought where 9K/6K)

I haven't. Who could do that for me?

How can you say you've "outgrown your current suspension" when you don't know your spring rates and have them ass backwards?

Contact GTWorx or Robi -- they have KW contacts to do that.

I have a lot of Aero work done to my car and decent size rubber (NT01 275/35/18's). The car is way too soft IMO. The aero has defiantly highlighted this more. Pushes worse (rolling oustide of the tire bad) etc. etc.


How are my spring rates ass backwards?

Spring rates: Front=515 / Rear=340 (lbs/inch)

I thought that was close to 9k and 6K

Due to the known motion ratio the CT9A has. You have less rate in the rear do to the geometry change. Starting off with less as you have it will make the car push a ton more than needed.

Like Smike said, you have your springs on backwards for the Evo.

Yes, the EVO wants a stiffer rear spring rate in order to handle well. This is why off the shelf KW's are not very good.

- Andrew

If your rear rates aren't higher than your front, you need a REALLY big rear bar. Of course that breaks other stuff...

I would argue that for a track evo -- even on street tires -- 14k is the starting point. 18k is common, even for autocross. Once you've gotten to this level, I wouldn't consider anything less proven than Koni 8600. Really, for a dedicated track car, consider premium monotube race dampers. That means Koni 28, Penske 8000, and the like.

There difference in performance is huge, but it's not what you see most folks talking about on evom. It's priced beyond what most are able to pay. Likewise, the JRZ, moton, ohlins will work great _if_ work with the manufacturer to get the valving you need.

If you want to come to ABQ, you're welcome to do some laps at Sandia in my car: zzyzx coilovers, koni 8611s, track springrates, bars, 380 whp.

d

Some good info. Thanks guys.

I wonder what typical new springs /re-valving costs?

Donour I might take you up on that offer. Our track season just ended down here.

If the KW uses a standard size (2.25" or 2.5") hyperco and eibach have a large catalogs of rates/lengths. Most are about $80. I think I have an extra pair of 700s and 900s laying around if you want them cheap. 2.5 x 6.

Typically, rebuilds cost $75-150 per shock. It's more if you want them dyno'd. You do! :) If you want to get really thorough, I have matlab spreadsheets for calculating desired rates for a given level of grip and generating damper force plots to use as a target when you get a revalve.

The season is over up here, but there are open track events year round. Although...I've never run arroyo seco and I really want to...:p

d

Thanks D for all the insight. I spoke with Myles at GTworx and I am really considering some AST coilovers. They might fit the bill perfect. He is recommending I run 9k/10K springs.

The last time I ran Sandia was at a SCCA race in my Spec Miata. I have had the Evo up there once before. I have been wanting to run up there again. You def. need to come down to ASR.