Replacing worn bushings OEM, hard rubber, poly?!?!
 

Hi Evom I'm currently getting all of the maintenance done on my evo and I would like some input on replacing bushings. My evo isn't my DD but it's still a street car so a little added NVH isn't going to bother me if I go with a stiffer option. I will be tracking my car and would like better performance/ longevity/ least maintenance (ie. grease or oiling) as I know replacing bushing is a not the funnest job so I only want to do it once for a long time. I've heard poly bushing can be noisy and warp/ deform giving slop but I haven't actually seen factual data from people that run their cars hard. Hard rubber bushings like "Hard Race or Cusco" are also on my radar, a lot of Honda guys run the Hard Race but they don't give very detailed reviews. I did stumble across a few various threads during my research saying the steel liners corrode very quickly and separate from the actual rubber not sure if that's true or not and I guess there is more stiction which actually hurts suspension movement?

OEM = another 100k+ miles between changes, no added performance (well maybe a lil since I'm replacing worn bushings)
Hard Rubber = more stiction, better performance than oem, unknown longevity w track usage
Poly = good performance, possibly deformation, needs to be lubed or can get noisy
Solid mounts = best performance, for race cars haha

I have Energy Suspension poly bushings in the LCA's of my off road 4Runner and they have taken a beating for the past year with no deformation (the LCA bushings hold the eccentric bolts to adjust toe angles, so if they were deformed I'd know since my alignment would be off). I'm leaning more towards the hard rubber bushings as a middle ground but I'd still like to get some input from people who have tried any of the combinations that run their cars pretty hard.

Thanks!

Hey SoSo

Im no expert, but im running a full set of Whiteline bushes front / rear

From what ive seen on the boards, there are many who have used the ES bushes w/no issues. They are quality pieces for sure, IMO. I just happened to go w/the WL brand

You certainly dont need solid bushes.

I think going w/the the PU set is your best bet for performance / longevity

Joe

The poly stuff holds onto the lube pretty well and if you ever do have to lube em it's not that hard. I'd say the poly stuff would probably last at least as long as the OE stuff seeing as you're in CA and don't have to deal with lots of corrosion.

Get the Energy Suspension Master kit in black - which is impregnated with graphite and does not squeak.. ever... Apply the assembly lube everywhere.. and your set.

I have over 50k between 2 evos on them and they are amazing.

My entire car is on poly bushings. I haven't noticed any difference in NVH, but I may not be as sensitive to it, since I don't daily the car. No weird noises or anything in three years, but I've also only put 5,000 miles on it. If not being competitive/etc with the car and you can replace with OEM, that's the way I'd go.

Awesome thanks guys! The master ES kit is priced really well...ok I'll go with poly then since they have performed well for you guys. Another question my ball joints need to be replaced also, they're weeping grease. Is the general consensus here to just get the Whiteline roll center correction ball joints? I'm going to be stock height for a bit until I find some racecomp lowering springs and some used MR billy's, do you think there would be any negative effects installing them at stock height?

Edit: Per Whiteline's info roll center correction balljoints should be used on lowered vehicles.

Whiteline's kit barely makes a difference. I can't imagine it would harm anything to use them.

Yeah, if youre lowered running the WL correction kit will help some (i run it). Its not a real game changer until you change out the hubs to correct the lower A-arm angles

Hub suppliers that do that are SSB or Wisefab

The roll center kit no.is KCA-395 (please double check)

Awesome thanks guys! {thumbup}

I've had the best luck with coating the PU bushings in copper anti-seize rather than the included grease. No squeaks or weird noises after that.