Audio system shorting out
Nov 18, 2010, 11:43 AM
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Audio system shorting out
I have one 12in Kicker Klassic wired at 4ohms, hooked up to a german made amp (name unknown) putting out 650watts rms bridged at 4 ohms. The power cable and ground are TSUNAMI 4 gauge with TSUNAMI RCA's. Finally, I have a pioneer DEH-P5200HD headunit.
For some reason, my fuses on my amp (40amp x2) and/or my 60amp fuse right after the battery blow when I start my car and my amp goes into protect mode (Also, for some reason my amp stays in protect mode even after I turn my car off). Therefore, I went to walmart and bought some POS Sony amp that had alittle less watts just to see if it was my amp. When I hooked that up, it wasnt recieving power for some reason, so I took it back. After that test I reliezed that my wiring might be shorting out, so I replaced the old 8 gauge wire for the new TSUNAMI wiring I mentioned above. The only wire I didn't replace was the remote wire. However, the problem still continued after the swap. Therefore, I went to autozone and had them test my alternator, I thought it might have been overcharging my battery. Well I found out that my alternator was fine, but my battery was at only 35%. So, I replaced that with a duralast gold top. Once agin, after I replaced all of my fuses, they blow again. I have offically ran out of ideas. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
For some reason, my fuses on my amp (40amp x2) and/or my 60amp fuse right after the battery blow when I start my car and my amp goes into protect mode (Also, for some reason my amp stays in protect mode even after I turn my car off). Therefore, I went to walmart and bought some POS Sony amp that had alittle less watts just to see if it was my amp. When I hooked that up, it wasnt recieving power for some reason, so I took it back. After that test I reliezed that my wiring might be shorting out, so I replaced the old 8 gauge wire for the new TSUNAMI wiring I mentioned above. The only wire I didn't replace was the remote wire. However, the problem still continued after the swap. Therefore, I went to autozone and had them test my alternator, I thought it might have been overcharging my battery. Well I found out that my alternator was fine, but my battery was at only 35%. So, I replaced that with a duralast gold top. Once agin, after I replaced all of my fuses, they blow again. I have offically ran out of ideas. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Dec 6, 2010, 03:04 PM
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You have a short, that's all there is to it. The only way you can determine if it's your wiring, is by taking the amp directly to a batter, and hooking it up directly. Use a short small power cable to go tot he remote connector, from the power connector. Your remote wire can cause a short, very easily, though usually that doesn't pop the large fuse.
Point being, you still have a problem somewhere.... Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and the AMP, and make sure it's not touching ground, or any other conducive part of the car. Use a multimeter and check for resistance to ground, from either end of your power wire. You're looking to see if your + cable is touching ground somewhere.
Make sure your ground cable is about 18" long, and makes a good solid connection to the vehicle body.
Eliminate the remote wire and just use a shorty wire to jump it from the primary power cable temporarily.
Point being, you still have a problem somewhere.... Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and the AMP, and make sure it's not touching ground, or any other conducive part of the car. Use a multimeter and check for resistance to ground, from either end of your power wire. You're looking to see if your + cable is touching ground somewhere.
Make sure your ground cable is about 18" long, and makes a good solid connection to the vehicle body.
Eliminate the remote wire and just use a shorty wire to jump it from the primary power cable temporarily.
Dec 6, 2010, 03:21 PM
#4
You have a short, that's all there is to it. The only way you can determine if it's your wiring, is by taking the amp directly to a batter, and hooking it up directly. Use a short small power cable to go tot he remote connector, from the power connector. Your remote wire can cause a short, very easily, though usually that doesn't pop the large fuse.
Point being, you still have a problem somewhere.... Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and the AMP, and make sure it's not touching ground, or any other conducive part of the car. Use a multimeter and check for resistance to ground, from either end of your power wire. You're looking to see if your + cable is touching ground somewhere.
Make sure your ground cable is about 18" long, and makes a good solid connection to the vehicle body.
Eliminate the remote wire and just use a shorty wire to jump it from the primary power cable temporarily.
Point being, you still have a problem somewhere.... Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and the AMP, and make sure it's not touching ground, or any other conducive part of the car. Use a multimeter and check for resistance to ground, from either end of your power wire. You're looking to see if your + cable is touching ground somewhere.
Make sure your ground cable is about 18" long, and makes a good solid connection to the vehicle body.
Eliminate the remote wire and just use a shorty wire to jump it from the primary power cable temporarily.
Did it ever work or just start happening? Remote wires are fairly fragile, and can be prone to scraping against metal and shorting out after xxxx amount of miles. Also, RCAs can cause it as well. I once accidentally screwed right in between the rcas when putting the inner door plastic back on. Took a few months for it to wear through, but it eventually did and fried my deck.
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