I bought an LC-1 to be able to do some better logging... so my question is about the ground and the power. I've seen some people here talk about using the radio power? Then others say not to use this... so i'm a little confused by some of this. Before anyone mentions it, I can't run it to the cig lighter because I already made that constant so I can always charge my phone... perhaps there is a fuse I can tap into that I could use for power? Any other tips on the rest of the install? I plan on going up through the passenger side where the grommet is and then running the wires... well, wherever they need to go to get the job done nice and cleanly. I will take some pics as I go along and do a how to as well.

Anyway, tips, tricks, or any other info would be nice.

 

Brief rundown of my install:

LC1 zip-tied to front passenger lower control arm. The two data cables run in to the cabin through the rear O2 sensor body bung under the passenger seat. The power/ground cable runs to the engine compartment fuse box up the exhaust passage behind the heat shield, zip-tied to the strut tower brace, and across to the fuse box. I found a fuse terminal that I believe is for Navi (which I don't have...), and this circuit turns on when the ignition is on. I grounded it on the ECU bracket I think, or somewhere nearby.

FWIW, my iPod adapter that is grounded near the radio picks up a *ton* of noise when I'm on the AUX input.( I'm not sure if I just chose a bad ground, or if it is something within the iPod... you can actually hear the HD spin up lol)

At any rate, I didn't see any reason to get power from inside the cabin when there was a perfectly good spot to grab power from that didn't require me to take apart my dash.

Also, I would definitely recommend running the analog output from the LC1 into the stock rear O2. Keeps the ECU happy and stops it from throwing P0140, which it will do even if you have it disabled.

 

so you zip tied the LC-1 cables to the lower control arm? You aren't worried about them dry rotting and breaking and risking damage to it?

Do I need any sort of special sealer to put on the WB threads? My exhaust already has a bung for the WB so all I have to do is screw it up and that should be that... just want to make sure it's sealed as good as it can be.

 

He means steering rack. There is a place right near the front of the CAT to wedge it and zip tie it that is both out of the way and non-mobile.

You don't need a special sealant, but anti-seize will always make your life easier.

Check your manual for a good place to add a fuse in the front fuse box, I'd recommend employing an add-a-fuse, but I hate cutting factory wiring and / or widening fuse slots by just shoving a fuse on top of the wire.

 

Unplug your rear o2 sensor and run the lc-1 in place of it. Find power under the shifter boot cover (green wire?) off of the cig lighter. Ground it on a black screw under under the ebrake. Tap the yellow wire of the orange/yellow twisted pair (in the big run of wires) with the brown wire out from the LC-1. Use 0.0146*x+7.35 as your formula in evoscan for the rear o2, and you're golden

 

I'm using ATR not evoscan and my cig lighter is already constant... I fixed it that way so my phone that goes dead in 3-4 hours could charge while the car is off. I thought that the WB should be as close to the engine as possible? It doesn't matter?

 

No, not too close. In the downpipe or testpipe is fine.

You will have to find power somewhere else then I guess

 

18" from the turbo outlet.

 

yeah, i'm just going to put it where the exhaust already has a place to put it... it's got to be at least close to that distance.

Any other ideas about what fuse I could tap into or piggyback? Maybe the one for the power windows?

 

Hi!
I suggest you to use a fuse tap like the 3rd option on this link:
http://www.alltrackusa.com/connectors.html

 

well, the problem is mainly which wire should I tap into? Windows I guess wouldn't be a good idea because they stay on for an extra 30 seconds or so and the WB shouldn't be on unless the exhaust is running past it. There's always the radio I guess, but i'd get worried i'd forget and leave the radio on and the WB would burn up... any other ideas for power?

 

I just read that you can tap into the reverse light fuse which only gets power when the fuse is "on". Work or no?

 

I just had an idea last night... couldn't I just wire in a manual switch I could throw that I could use when I wanted to turn the WB on? That way if i'm not logging, it wouldn't need to be on. I could still wire it to the reverse light fuse, but just have that extra security of being able to turn it on and off myself if I wanted to.

 

dude, I answered the question in the first reply. fuse #20 under the hood.

not only would a switch get annoying fast, but the WB needs to be on whether or not you are logging.

also, while we're on the topic, charging your phone from your car when the car is not on sounds like a horrible idea... please tell me you aren't doing this for more than an hour at a time!

 

No that will not work. The WB has to have power while the car runs or it will get damaged. Do not run a car with an unpowered WB installed.