WARNING: Check BLUE Fuel Relays (Blue Relays Fail)!!!
You can use a fuel pump relay similar to what I use in my surge tank kit, wire it into your intank, and eliminate this issue all together. The negative side effect would be the pump running full on all the time, likely causing your idle fueling to be off. But it's a solution.
Last edited by mlomker; Sep 26, 2010 at 12:35 AM.
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From: Philly, Germany, Japan, UK...South Dakota (Da Sticks).......
Ehhhhhh.....I so dang tired of buying relays I'm beginning not to care anymore. Green, Blue....I had bought a few of them (both types) just to have some extra on hand and now they are all crap? What a waste....
its funny , i never had any if these... I changed the relay to green just because the site said it will fail..
Are you sure it is a relay problem? How many miles do you have ?
It is interesting if you have a fairly low mileage and you experience so many failure .
I had a MAF failure in the row , and i did throw out the HKS drop in filter, and i did put the K&N instead in it. Since then and after more mileage then the HKS been in my car, i had no failure again so far.
What im saying is , maybe something cause this so many failures, not the relay itself. For me sounds more logical that, then always getting the bad relay theory.
Im not saying you are wrong or anything, but i would look into this matter with some pro or very very experienced electrician guy /car/.
Rob
Are you sure it is a relay problem? How many miles do you have ?
It is interesting if you have a fairly low mileage and you experience so many failure .
I had a MAF failure in the row , and i did throw out the HKS drop in filter, and i did put the K&N instead in it. Since then and after more mileage then the HKS been in my car, i had no failure again so far.
What im saying is , maybe something cause this so many failures, not the relay itself. For me sounds more logical that, then always getting the bad relay theory.
Im not saying you are wrong or anything, but i would look into this matter with some pro or very very experienced electrician guy /car/.
Rob
The relays only purpose is to kick the pump from 8volts to 14 volts right? Why not use a jumper wire instead of the relay and keep the pump at 14 volts all the time? You will have to adjust your fueling in the cells before the ecm kicks the relay on. Or use an external relay like Kosmic27 stated.
The relays only purpose is to kick the pump from 8volts to 14 volts right? Why not use a jumper wire instead of the relay and keep the pump at 14 volts all the time? You will have to adjust your fueling in the cells before the ecm kicks the relay on. Or use an external relay like Kosmic27 stated.
If the stock pump was designed to run at 9 volts most of the time, I doubt it will last that long at 14 volts. The fuel return system isn't designed to flow that much fuel (cause you won't be using it), so the pump will be running at higher pressures, and higher pressures ruin pumps.
Idle will also be messed up at the higher pressures. You will need to tune it out.
Idle will also be messed up at the higher pressures. You will need to tune it out.
Last edited by Golden; Sep 29, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
The problem with that logic is most of the people having these issues run a walbro 255s not stock pumps. I have installed 20 or so walbros in various cars, all of which run full voltage to them at all times. Even if the oem pump is used, I personally would rather an oem pump fail completely than the second relay not kick on when you need it most. I also dont think the return line would be a problem since some are running twin pumps through these oem lines. I have already stated that you would need to tune out the richness from the pump running higher voltage at idle and cruise.
Here is how the 3000gt guys do it. http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumprelaybypass.htm
If the stock pump was designed to run at 9 volts most of the time, I doubt it will last that long at 14 volts. The fuel return system isn't designed to flow that much fuel (cause you won't be using it), so the pump will be running at higher pressures, and higher pressures ruin pumps.
Idle will also be messed up at the higher pressures. You will need to tune it out.
Idle will also be messed up at the higher pressures. You will need to tune it out.
NVH ---this is great if you have a walboro that is of the whiney variety.
Lower flow at idle / cruise --- you don't overrun the FPR
Slightly lower energy cost --- less pumping around fluids aimlessly
A walboro is designed to run at 12v/14v, and I'm sure the factory pump is also. Reducing the voltage may prolong the life, but not significantly (probably more from a standpoint of wear on revolving parts). The only catch might be if you drive with no fuel all the time and the pump heats up more, but thats out of scope.
One alternative if you wanted to keep the factory style system would be to just wire up 2 relays in parallel. If one failed, the other would still be there as a backup. You just have to make sure you don't skip the resistor.
I hated the loud *** whine of the walboro in my 2g... and before I rewired it you could hear the power oscillate when you put on turn signals or turned up the stereo. Totally annoying and pointless.






