Heat Soak issue. Looking for Air and Coolant temp related fuel trims!
I was assuming if it got vaporized before being injected, like in the fuel rail due to the heat, it wouldn't come out of the injectors correctly. Good chance I'm wrong.
My car is having similar results on pump gas. But doesn't seem to be a heat issue. For what ever reason afr changes from one start up to the next as much as two full points. This is effecting my wide open fueling as well. I am running the 1680's as well. When it was at English racing they didn't have the issue when on ethanol but it was a problem on pump. Everything seems to be good with fuel supply. I hope to get arron or Lucas to chime in here and see if these problems might be related.
Well, FWIW, Eric, if you want to just do an E85 tune on my car first, versus pump gas... well, totally up to you. Realistically, the car isn't going to go on a huge amount of long trips. I want the pump gas fixed, long term, but E85 would be nice just to test and see.
Building the red-neck Camaro for longer trips, duh
Building the red-neck Camaro for longer trips, duh
Well, FWIW, Eric, if you want to just do an E85 tune on my car first, versus pump gas... well, totally up to you. Realistically, the car isn't going to go on a huge amount of long trips. I want the pump gas fixed, long term, but E85 would be nice just to test and see.
Building the red-neck Camaro for longer trips, duh
Building the red-neck Camaro for longer trips, duh

Hmmm, in for solutions for sure. I am going with the 1680's as well so on the outside chance its an injector thing which I'd say 99% chance its not I would love to know whats up here.
Scheides is running the 1680's in his car but hes on E85 and hes not having any issues.
Scheides is running the 1680's in his car but hes on E85 and hes not having any issues.
its a fairly odd condition at the moment... I mean a lot of people dont let their car idle for 30+ mins...
I doubt it would pop-up often when driving....
still interested to see if a temp-CAI will help/eliminate...
I doubt it would pop-up often when driving....
still interested to see if a temp-CAI will help/eliminate...
I'm honestly kind of curious if ANYONE is on 1680s on pump gas, successfully. 3dman didn't have good luck.
A couple questions for you guys;
1) When the car dies is the IDC dropping below 1%?
2) Does the car die on decel?
3) When the idle issues start happening is your oil pressure dropping causing the EXT retard to go between -25 and -35 right before it dies?
1) When the car dies is the IDC dropping below 1%?
2) Does the car die on decel?
3) When the idle issues start happening is your oil pressure dropping causing the EXT retard to go between -25 and -35 right before it dies?
I think there are a few different issues here and they aren't all injector related. Some of you need to STOP trying to fix an idle injector issue and look into mechanical issues. I've seen similar issues on 3 different cars now and all have been close with symptoms.
1) Engine will idle fine while cold but once warm will sputter and die.
2) Car will drive fine but die on decel and in neutral.
3) One map will work fine one minute yet change the next.
What we have found with these has been built motors and bearings getting worn and dragging. So far all we can figure for this happening is oil being diluted by fuel and too low of idle causing oil pressure to drop and not providing the right amount of protection between rotating parts and bearings. One of the other issues was the journal bearing of a blouch turbo failing and dumping back into the oil pan. Once the debris was in the pan it didn't take long to spread like cancer and start embedding into the other bearings as well as the head.
What you will notice is when the car is cold everything seems fine, this is because the bearings are cold and haven't expanded yet. Once warm the metal expands and everything starts tightening up / dragging making the engine work harder. The drag gets so bad the idle goes to **** because the oil pressure starts dipping / the exhaust cam drags / the exhaust cam loses oil pressure and retards to -25 to -35 / causing more of a lean condition / more dip / more pressure loss / ect.
You get the picture, it's a perpetual fight for the car to stay alive. The more this happens the worse the oil get thinned by fuel washing down the cylinder walls and losing more pressure. The more you try and keep the car alive the more damage you do to the bearings and head. I think a lot of this is starting to show up because of it being summer and new builds with large injectors. For most people trying to run large injectors on pump gas it worked in the winter but with higher temps the injectors are needing less IDC and once they go below 1% the just shut off causing stumbles.
I know there is more I am missing but for those of you having issues pull your valve cover and inspect your cam main bearing cap or pull your oil pan and look for bearing material. You won't see it on a dipstick or maybe not even if you drain the oil if you don't look real hard.
1) Engine will idle fine while cold but once warm will sputter and die.
2) Car will drive fine but die on decel and in neutral.
3) One map will work fine one minute yet change the next.
What we have found with these has been built motors and bearings getting worn and dragging. So far all we can figure for this happening is oil being diluted by fuel and too low of idle causing oil pressure to drop and not providing the right amount of protection between rotating parts and bearings. One of the other issues was the journal bearing of a blouch turbo failing and dumping back into the oil pan. Once the debris was in the pan it didn't take long to spread like cancer and start embedding into the other bearings as well as the head.
What you will notice is when the car is cold everything seems fine, this is because the bearings are cold and haven't expanded yet. Once warm the metal expands and everything starts tightening up / dragging making the engine work harder. The drag gets so bad the idle goes to **** because the oil pressure starts dipping / the exhaust cam drags / the exhaust cam loses oil pressure and retards to -25 to -35 / causing more of a lean condition / more dip / more pressure loss / ect.
You get the picture, it's a perpetual fight for the car to stay alive. The more this happens the worse the oil get thinned by fuel washing down the cylinder walls and losing more pressure. The more you try and keep the car alive the more damage you do to the bearings and head. I think a lot of this is starting to show up because of it being summer and new builds with large injectors. For most people trying to run large injectors on pump gas it worked in the winter but with higher temps the injectors are needing less IDC and once they go below 1% the just shut off causing stumbles.
I know there is more I am missing but for those of you having issues pull your valve cover and inspect your cam main bearing cap or pull your oil pan and look for bearing material. You won't see it on a dipstick or maybe not even if you drain the oil if you don't look real hard.



