I'm not very knowledgeable on electrical issues, but is it possibly either the ground or the wiring is bad? I mean you swapped out the MAf sensor, the fuel relays, re-scaled MAFvoltz, and nothing seems to help at all. Perhaps there is something wrong with the wiring, especially in light of the REALLY low voltage at idle (I've never heard of any car ever idling w/ less than 1 volt). Most every car idles at 1.2-1.3, that's why we scale 0 for any values at/below 1.0.

EDIT: Looking at your OP you were wiring in a new sound system, right? Is it possible the ground is causing a small surge in the ground for the MAF system as well? Try disconnecting the new stereo equipment (especially the sub/amp) to see of that will fix it.

Not a new system. I've had this sub/amp in and out of the car more times than I can count. I was just reconnecting it again. I also tried disconnecting it again and still the same results.

Can you be more specific? Where would I find this? Just watch while logging or is there a specific way to pull it up because this may be a very relevant bit of information I have yet to retrieve (at least I think so anyway)

Do you have "databits=16" for standalone, and "RequestBytes=2" for EvoScan?

ie. 2-byte variable?

Rich

D'oh! Thanks Rich.

I had a couple issues that were related to shifting from 1-2 and coming to a stop quickly. My car would lean out, and stumble for 2-3 seconds before fixing itself. It turned out it was due to a disparity between my RPM crossover (i.e. when the car went from Closed to Open Loop) and my MAFhz bins crossover (i.e. when the car went from low to mid to high hz bin Fuel Trims). The car was going into Open Loop at ~100 load@3k rpm, but the hz bin was trying to make fuel trim adjustments until 140-160 load (when it no longer had control over the matter). So when I finally dipped back down in the land of Closed Loop Fuel Trim it was WAY off.
This might have a hand in the issue, BUT it should still fix itself in 2-3 seconds (despite running into this problem on a consistent basis). The whole 'takes 15-30 seconds to fix itself' problem sounds like something is wrong with the system, not the software

That's my thinking, as well. I can't see a software/tuning hangup lasting for that extended amount of time and then finally deciding to correct itself, but then again, I'm nowhere near an expert when it comes to this aspect of modifying/tuning. Have a couple things headed my way to see if I can make some more progress in the near future

Another log, idling in my driveway after the commute home from work. I still think my IAT value is incorrect, but everything else seems to correspond with what I'm physically seeing on the car.

After Commute Idle 4_2_12.zip

If you look at the MAF voltage, though, you can see that I am seeing values ranging anywhere from 0.610 all the way up to 2.036

And here's a sample of the log from the drive home, the same day as the one from above. This is a decent stretch of road where it is fairly steady cruising with only 2 speed increases that basically split the log into 1/3's, but you can see how the PSIG is all over the place (anywhere from -6 to -9), even though the gauge hung right around 14 inHg the ENTIRE time (other than while accelerating, of course)

Cruise 4_2_12.zip

Pretty weird stuff...

i certainly hope you get this figured out.

You and me both brother. (btw, I found an AWESOME fluid transfer pump for like 7 bucks, no lie. )

Updates? I also have similar ''rich'' when coming to a stop.Been doing this for about month or so.No DTCs and driveability not any different.AFR low to mid 11s at WOT. Also stock turbo..mods are full 3in turbo back(single exit) evo x intercooler and bpv, ams uicp,ams licp,ams intake and boost pill,battery relocated to the trunk. Updated relays and FPR hose secured. Heres a log...Note car is fully warmed up and been I driving around for atleast 20 mins. Happens 80 % of the time coming to a stop..sometimes it doesn't take as long to correct and make its way to 14.7

Also not sure why TPS shows negative/zero ...normal?

That log looks strikingly similar to the issue that I've been encountering. No confirmed repair for me, yet. I've since tried a new MAF and MAP sensor (I was getting funny log readings, so I figured it'd be worth a shot) without success. When the sensors didn't affect anything, I went back to mechanical sources of the funny readings and found and fixed a couple of boost-leaks but still having the same problem.

My brain is fried trying to come up with other possible reasons for this. I think if I can find the reason that it is staying in open loop for so long I'll find the source of the issue, but I have very little free time to spend diagnosing so it is a slow process.

Front O2 seems to be switching frequently (within spec) and mirroring operating conditions/wideband readings so I think I can count that out.

With so many parts working together and feeding off of one-another, it's difficult to try and isolate one individual cause and it's honestly making my head hurt at this point...

Did you come up with any more info on this issue, I am having a very similar issue. I have not logged the car yet, still need to buy the evoscan software.

I don't mean to steal, but I just read the entire thread about your issue with your RA. I'm having a similar issue, but I haven't tested a new MAF yet or been able to log anything so far. When I come to an idle my car drops to about 500rpm, so it looks like it's running rich. When I give any throttle the car will nearly stall(has before) and the car will hesitate for 1/2 a second and then start moving. During this time the car will engage each gear harshly and will hesitate on acceleration as well. I am totally stock. Everything mechanical has been checked.

The strange part with my issue is that it will do it for a day or two and then it wont do it for about a week or two. One think I noticed is unplugging my battery and resetting is the only thing i can do to keep the car running normally. If the trims start screwing up on a fresh reset the car will always drive bad. Sometimes I'm lucky. I bought this used in July and it worked great at first, but then..

I've noticed something new now. Upon acceleration from a stop, if I use anymore than 5-10% throttle, the shifting is harsher...

Please update!

I'm also curious..... no issues on my car but after reading the thread I'm quite drawn in to the issue.

Like missing the end of a good movie