First i want to say i mean no disrespect the manufacturers and only wanna share what's happened to me so far.

Somewhat finished installing all 3 parts last night. Started off with UR's intake. Really easy to install but only dislike is that there's no bracket to hold it secure.

Borrowed a bracket for now


It's basically remove stock filter assembly, and clamp new intake to the rubber that the bov is connected to and let it dangle. For right now i have a temporary solution and it was to put a sticky cushion pad on the stock intake support bracket so that the intake cone metal tip won't rub directly on it.

Second was UR's 3” High-Flow Cat (Metal Substrate). Advice to yous is to remove O2 sensor first. We left that second to last and came to find out factory installed it cross-threaded. It was a ***** to remove. Luckily the threads weren't too ****ed up. When it came to installing the test pipe, maybe i got the wrong set of bolts, but they were a bit too short. Have them installed for now without washers and still the bolt threads didn't make it past the nuts.




Question for the pros. I ordered the 3” High-Flow Cat with wideband. Does it matter which port i hook up the O2 sensor? The way it is right now it's hook up to the forward port where it was on the stock cat. Problem is that the wire is hanging underneath the test pipe and i would hate to bottom out and mess up the wire.

Relocated the wire



Last is Nisei 1 piece UICP. Only thing i want to say is make sure you clamp down the rubber hoses TIGHT.



I had the intake installed a couple of days ago and no problems. Test drove the car last night with my nieghbor after having all 3 parts installed. Once the car was warmed up I ran 1st and 2nd gear to redline and noticed the car sputter between 6k-7k RPM's. I backed off after 2nd and went to a different road that had no traffic. Ran it up again and when i hit 2nd at 6500 RPM the car felt like it hit rev-limiter. I pull into a parking lot, popped the hood open and saw that the UICP popped off. So we reinstalled it and tighten it further than the first time. Ran it again on the way home. 1st gear was smooth then 2nd sputtered again. Plus my "Service Engine" light came on. Stayed off boost till i made it to the garage. UICP didn't come off this time. So this morning i'm going to see if i can trouble shoot the problem.

Took pictures but camera died. So i'll post them up later so you guys can see what i'm talking about.

 

Service engine light sucks j/k

 

CEL was probably due to the high flow cat. Slap on the CEL fix and you should be good to go.

 

Did the car go into limp mode?

 

I don't know about this car, but my old EVO had a CEL from the secondary o2 its whole life and there was so such thing as "limp" mode. It still ran off of the standard maps.

The reason his car was running poorly is because of the intercooler pipe coming off. The ECU was expecting a lot more air to be coming through the motor and was still dumping large amounts of fuel into the cylinders.

 

If you didn't install the O2 sensor into the stock location I could see the CEL coming on. The wideband bung is meant for the wideband sensor only because it's not at the angle like the stock o2 sensor is to keep the CEL from coming on. I installed mine last night and had no fitment issues with the test pipe (no option version, just the straight pipe) I thought the bolts were to short also but realized I hadn't lifted the pipe back into place enough so after my buddy and I pushed it up a little further it fit on just fine with the washers/nuts. The overall quality of the pipe is great. My wire is kinda hanging out below the test pipe at the moment also but I'm going to be zip tying that beast tonight because I ran out of time last night and after the tune that o2 won't be doing anything anyway and I'll probably just plug it.

I only installed the test pipe so I can't comment on the high rpm stutter you said you're experiencing however I've got to say I love my test pipe. Throttle response is better and lag is drastically improved! The car rolls through the gears much quicker now and 5th gear roll ins on the highway are enjoyable now.

Do you have the factory reflash? Have you gotten the code pulled yet to see what it was? It might be completely unrelated to any of the mods and just throwing a code like mine did last week.

Edit: After rereading that last section about the IC pipe blowing off if it was dumping fuel I bet you got a P1320 misfire code from that...but it shouldn't be affecting driveability or performance just the annoying light on the dash. When this happened to me didn't go limp mode.

 

Wow I have the Nisei UICP installed and I've never had it pop off. Sounds like it may just be how you installed it. But I did tighten those clamps tight. It just seemed like common sense to me since the air is coming off the turbo.

 

sounds like a bad install, just get tbolt clamps

 

Noob question, what's the CEL fix?

Just came back from driving it. Yeah, i tighten the crap out of the clamps and now it's smooth. It was a bad install from my part. Before i drove it though i disconnected the battery for about 10-15 to get rid of the service engine light. It was doing fine for about 20 miles then it came on.

 

The CEL fix with regards to test pipes is usually an angled bung welded into the test pipe so the air flow against the O2 isn't direct, it "tricks" the O2 into thinking everything is alright but doesn't always work. It can be cleared by disconnecting the battery or with a OBDII scanner at Autozone or some place similar. The other way to keep the CEL off is most tuning software should have a feature to disable the rear o2 which is what most do I believe after being tuned and running catless.

Did you ever get that code checked out? Might want to do that before you just clear it next time incase it is a real problem and not something minor...

 

Did you get the same one i did? Also you mentioned you got it with "no option version". I ordered the gaskets they offer which were thicker than stock. I did the same thing as you by pushing it up, but still wasn't able to put the washers on.

I guess i'll have to wait to get it tuned. I took it to Advanced Auto Parts and they check it for me. P0420 "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold " was the code that popped up. He checked if there was anything else and there wasn't. How you getting yours tuned, hand held or dyno'ed?

 

yes the same happened to me the factory o2 senser was cross threaded from factory had one heck of a time getting it off and i also had to leave off the washers cause bolts were not long enough have had no cels and rethreaded o2 back in test pipe love how you can hear the turbo spool up

 

Odd that you think you received the wrong bolts. Which side is not long enough? Downpipe side or Catback side? Is it attaching to a stock or aftermarket part?

Darryl
www.ultimate-racing.com

 

I just installed the UR intake as well. I love the product. It sounds great, and I can def tell a diffence in acceleration. But it also irks me how it dangles like you mentioned. I had an idea of just putting a sponge in the same location as you stated. I figured it will prevent the filter from getting damaged as well as allow air to flow through.

 

Hey Darryl, do you have any solutions for the intake just dangling in the engine compartment? I'm kind of nervous it may get damaged or worse, fall off while driving over bumps.