Hey again guys, I'm pretty savvy when it comes to the bolt on stuff and the basics. I want to get more serious about my car tho. Money isn't an issue anymore (I didn't get rich, I just don't care how much it's going to cost). All that matters is doing things properly. So what I want to know is, how I should go about properly building up my car.

I know the Evo X is touch and go when it comes to certain things like the transmission and stock once you start modifying things. I don't want to do the engine that have transmission issues, etc.

The car is stock, there are no performance mods yet but what I was planning on doing was the following...

1. Custom piping (intake, intercooler piping, exhaust system, electric cut out)
2. Tune - Reese (mind's made up, he's close and reliable, and I like the guys there)
3. Clutch - Exedy stage 2
4. Greddy Profec II boost controller
5. Wideband AFR/Boost gauge
6. Magnus Clutch master cylinder upgrade

Now I want more off the bat. I'd rather wait to install the air system as well as the tune. I want to get Cosworth Cams or GSC Cams installed but I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I know that a lot comes with the territory. So in short, what I want to know is this

1. Should I just go ahead and get the Cosworth Valve head build? ($4200)
2. Should I just go stage 2 on the cams and get the valve springs and retainers?
3. Do I need to upgrade the fuel system? (I'm thinking yes). But to what extent? Fuel pump? fuel rail? (Injectors I know are a must)
4. Will I need to do anything further with transmission? Pins from Buscher or shep? I know that there's some concerns with the factory ones

Ultimately I want to get an upgraded turbo as well, but that will come after this bomb is dropped... it's going to be expensive enough so that'll hold me for the next year till I get a bigger turbo

Parts I'm considering are

1. GSC S1/S2 camshafts or Cosworth......... any feedback would help
2. MDR Fuel kit
3. Fuelab High pressure EFI Fuel pump
4. Fuelab Regulator
5. Cosworth Fuel Rail, AMS fuel rail, or Tomioka Fuel Rail $100 price difference (cosworth is more than AMS and tomioka)

Overall, the first route I was going to take would cost me around $2600

This new route will cost me upwards of $5000 but I know I'll save money in the end due to installation and I'm sure whomever I purchase from will work with me on pricing. MA Performance has treated me great so far.

What I want to know is what I'm either missing or what I included that I don't need. I've never dove into the engine itself and done things as such, it's always been bolt ons so this is new territory for me.

As always, thanks for your input guys,
TS

 

You can search for many threads- there are so many evo build threads with owners stating parts and etc. You did some research that i could see. It all depends on how much WHP your aiming for.

 

Yea I forgot to add that bit. To be honest, I'd be happy with anywhere between 450-650. The only thing I really want to avoid is having to rebuild the bottom end. I want to stay away from the crankcase if I can, and I don't want to swap the blocks internals, I just want to focus on the head and turbo system for now.

I did some research and I tried to read as many threads as I could but there really isn't any kind of thread that says "Here's the best way to start from stock"

It'd be nice if there was a sticky that informed complete noobs, even amateurs, different routes they could take. If I knew I'd knew enough I'd write one myself and I feel like a chump calling all those shops asking questions...

So, I'd like the end result to be a ballsy car with around 500whp. The point is to save money, I don't want to stage it and end up getting the car tuned 3-4 times paying each time. I'd like a one shot one kill type deal if possible.

 

Wow, allot of stuff in this thread. If you want ideas on Stages, just go to AMS's website, Perrin, Buschur, etc. Allot of them have staged upgrade paths.

From you're post, you are already doing the first set of mods, which is basically all the bolt-ons. That's a good start.

As for the 2nd set of mods, I personally don't know if it's worth a head build at this point. I would just get the cams you want and also springs/retainers. You don't even need more fuel at this point if you are on the stock turbo. I would wait for the fuel stuff until you figure out which turbo you want. This will also save you some cash for this round.

Then all next round would include is turbo, manifold, fuel pump, injectors, and rail if you want. You will be right around 500whp depending on whatever turbo you choose.

 

Not without a built bottom end you won't see 450-650. You crazy? Anything over 400wtq will blow your motor, and it'll take that to get to this power range. Why spend money on head work if you're not building the bottom end? I somehow doubt you've read all the build threads, as we all show a pretty good progression from stock to where we're going now.


Want to save money? Give up on 450+whp. Get used to 400whp. It sounds nice right? And then go buy the Cobb 400s kit. Done and done. Your part list is also a little off.... we don't need a boost controller on our cars, ecu boost is 100% perfect. Saved you $300 right there. You also don't need a fuel rail, waste of money. Another $200 or so. For the realistic goal of 400whp, cosworth cams w/ stock springs would be real nice, or the Kelford b's that come w/ the cobb kit.

I dont know about this fuellab pump, but get a walbro 255 in-tank from any of the vendors who sell them (map, UR, etc) and call it a day. This setup is included in the cobb kit if you go that route.

Really, you should get the 400S kit, get a wideband and a boost gauge, the exedy stg 2 clutch you already listed, and have Reese install and tune it.

Or buy the same parts separately and get cosworth cams. Either way.

 

Thanks for the info. I haven't read the threads but I did notice the performance shops build stages. The reason I didn't consider that is because I'd have to buy all at once which would be a huge chunk of money missing. (Fiance would ask questions). I planned on buying these parts over the next (6 months hopefully). I wasn't sure about the fuel upgrades and what not, I just saw a trend, but maybe the trend I noticed was wrong or not needed for our vehicles. I'm still learning.

You said I would need to build the bottom end if I want to see over 400whp, so are you talking pistons/rods etc, or all the way down to the crankshaft? Thanks for everything again guys and I'll start working on this parts list. I think I'll definitely go with cosworth since neither of you guys mentioned the GSC cams.

 

You sir are making no sense... You're willing to buy a Cosworth head for 4200$ while you "want to stay away from building the bottom end". I can't put this any other way - it's stupid. Build the ***** and go for that 600 of yours if that's your goal. If you wanna leave the bottom end alone however, 450 isn't going to work either.

 

GSC makes the best big-turbo cams, the S2. They just happen to be on perpetual backorder, and the Kelford B's are 97% as good. Both are more high-end cams though for big power. The Cosworth cams are better for mid-range, e.g. an FP Green.

If you want to buy in small chunks, take a look at my build thread and see the progression I've gone. I haven't had to throw away any of my parts, just added more on to them. Its not perfect, but a good path to go down (note that I followed the 'standard' path that almost everyone else does, i'm not special).

Building the block is a good idea. Mitsu cranks are the one place they don't cheap out, they're good for very high HP. So rods/pistons is really what we mean by building the block. But.... it still requires pulling the engine out, which means $$. I'll be nice and lay out for you parts and prices and where they should get you power wise.

Tuning: Cobb AP ($600)
Intake: Cobb SF ($150)
Turbo-Back Exhaust: Ultimate Racing ($988-$1400) or ETS ($1600) I went UR and love it
Intercooler: ETS ($950-$1350)

This got me to 350/350 on Cobb's mustang. If Reese uses a dynojet, it'd be closer to 370.

Turbo: FP Green ($1600)
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 kit ($180)
Injectors: DW 850CC ($400)

This should land you around the 400whp mark on a dynojet - Done.

If you wanted more power than this, read build threads from: Hotdog, Murlo26, Hollywood_X, and myself. Those are 4 varying builds and you could see the parts and choices we made. I won't list all the possibilities here. The build threads are on evoxforums.

 

I'll take the insult with a grain of salt but I'll take the advice seriously. When I said bottom end I meant the crankshaft and crankcase. Are we both talking about that or when you say bottom end do you mean the block? Just to be clear, not sure about terminology. Thanks tho man.

Thank you for that. This will put me on the right path and I really appreciate this.

 

turn up the boost, intake full TBE and a tune. I swapped turbos and intercoolers and piping and all that crap on my car and if i could do it all over again i would have stoped with just the regular stage 1 stuff. If your gunna be 100% street driven like me all thouse parts are gunna do is make the car a PITA for regular driving. The more you mod the more little things youll have to do and eventually the car is no fun anymore trust me on that.

 

That is a really good point. The car is currently my DD until I get my fiance a new car, then I plan on putting the Evo in the garage and using her old car for my DD. I'd like to go stage 1 or stage 1+ until the car is garaged and I can pull the engine. That's for pointing that out, I hadn't taken that into consideration.

 

You can do big power and daily drive, you just have to build everything g up right. It can get very expensive as they said, BC there's lots of little things to fix. I know all the guys I mentio ed above with our big builds, we have all spent 20k+ on our cars.

 

It's so crazy to think that over time you've spent that much, but I believe it. I couldn't believe my eyes when I was reading murlo's thread. That's so horrible what happened. I felt so bad. That was extra money he didn't need to spend huh... Thanks a lot for pointing me in the right direction man. I got in touch with Hollywood and he's gunna help me out. Once I get started i'll make sure i post my progress.

 

murlo spent much more. I added up all my receipts,and i'll be at $22,000 - and I didn't blow my block. That was simply building my perfectly good block.

 

Or you can also just pay the 21 grand (plus installation) up front...

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/a...x_package.html