One more thread to get suggestions on my setup with cobb
One more thread to get suggestions on my setup with cobb
So I'm hoping to get suggestions on exactly what I should do, as in a different thread I explained how I thought something happened to my drivetrain and got a service request light that disappeared after I turned the car off. (I then also used my cobb to see about my codes I could be throwing and had none).
I was thinking my drivetrain is okay, but now when I'm driving, my car doesn't feel its accelerating like it should be/used to, feels laggy and slow. I have a UR catback, dc test pipe with stock downpipe running the cobb stage 2+sf 93 octane map.
I researched how a lot of people use the map without a full turboback. I'm wondering if its my twin clutch tranny that's limiting my car with the stage 2 tune or if there is something wrong like with my awd that my car feels very laggy and slow.
Or should I try taking out the boost pill and see if that improves it? or would that cause damage? I logged my car before I had the scare with the service request light incident and sent it to a guy on evoxforums who was knowledgeable on the cobb and said my logs were good, no bad ping and boost was in mid 20's.
The problem mainly feels off the line, if I punch it it feels like it goes forever for me to accelerate, even in sport mode my car doesn't feel like it used to. Maybe I should go back to stage 1?
Sorry for long thread, just trying to get everything out there that I'm thinking and know with my car to maybe get some good suggestions (or complaints lol).
Thanks everyone
Kevin
I was thinking my drivetrain is okay, but now when I'm driving, my car doesn't feel its accelerating like it should be/used to, feels laggy and slow. I have a UR catback, dc test pipe with stock downpipe running the cobb stage 2+sf 93 octane map.
I researched how a lot of people use the map without a full turboback. I'm wondering if its my twin clutch tranny that's limiting my car with the stage 2 tune or if there is something wrong like with my awd that my car feels very laggy and slow.
Or should I try taking out the boost pill and see if that improves it? or would that cause damage? I logged my car before I had the scare with the service request light incident and sent it to a guy on evoxforums who was knowledgeable on the cobb and said my logs were good, no bad ping and boost was in mid 20's.
The problem mainly feels off the line, if I punch it it feels like it goes forever for me to accelerate, even in sport mode my car doesn't feel like it used to. Maybe I should go back to stage 1?
Sorry for long thread, just trying to get everything out there that I'm thinking and know with my car to maybe get some good suggestions (or complaints lol).
Thanks everyone
Kevin
oh one more thing I thought of, I bought an ams boost pill awhile ago that I never used (i honestly forgot why i bought it), but now with this issue, is that thing worth using since I have an MR?
Instead of agonizing over this, why don't you go to the source and elliminate all variables?
Call Cobb and get your car tuned in Plano or Austin specifically for your unique set of mods.
You will probably gain a few hps / ft-lbs and have a nice Dyno sheet to use as a benchmark to compare against other similar cars.
Call Cobb and get your car tuned in Plano or Austin specifically for your unique set of mods.
You will probably gain a few hps / ft-lbs and have a nice Dyno sheet to use as a benchmark to compare against other similar cars.
Well I definitely plan on going to cobb hopefully in the near future, once I have the time and $, but need to stick with what I can do on my own for now.
I just went to run another datalog in sport mode, and once again I got that warning light, I took a pic:

The traction control off light comes on with the service light btw. I know what the "breaking" sound I thought I heard from my previous thread, it was from my exhaust, so backpressure or exhaust or w/e, then came the warning light. I was logging and on my ap my boost hit 29-30 psi! I'm assuming thats not good...Does this mean I should remove the boost pill or put the AMS one in? It all started with the test pipe. I'm thinking maybe taking it off and/or going back to stage 1. Cause i don't know if removing the boost pill will help.
I just went to run another datalog in sport mode, and once again I got that warning light, I took a pic:

The traction control off light comes on with the service light btw. I know what the "breaking" sound I thought I heard from my previous thread, it was from my exhaust, so backpressure or exhaust or w/e, then came the warning light. I was logging and on my ap my boost hit 29-30 psi! I'm assuming thats not good...Does this mean I should remove the boost pill or put the AMS one in? It all started with the test pipe. I'm thinking maybe taking it off and/or going back to stage 1. Cause i don't know if removing the boost pill will help.
here's a google doc of a part of my data log, with the 29psi and some high knock...I hope the link works
datalogdoc
datalogdoc
You're over-boosting causing that warning, try the LWG version of that map. This is pretty common with a testpipe since their stage 2 maps were designed for cars with a HFC rather than a testpipe.
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Okay I changed the map, will go drive around later and do another datalog. Also I noticed my FPR hose was disconnected (even tho i had a ziptie on it, guess that didn't do anything), would that cause any of these problems?
I know it was messing up my idle cause it was rough and now its better after I reattached the hose.
I know it was messing up my idle cause it was rough and now its better after I reattached the hose.
Cool, so that problem should be good, as soon as i log my car again, hopefully it'll look good with the LWG map then hopefully problem solved, as long as my car doesn't feel slow anymore too ha
Well have an update. Ran another datalog with the lwg stage 2 on and no more high boosting. highest I got using sport mode and WOT from 3rd gear was about 24psi, like 23.93 to be exact but is hitting peak boost supposed to happen at 4700 rpm?? it tapered off after that. Highest knock I had was 2.11 at 1146 to 1357 rpm for a few seconds with boost in negatives.
When slamming the gas to wot didn't give me the warning light like twice b4 it did. the only thing is my car still feels slower with accelerating.
When I have the safe chance to do so, gonna do a 0-60 on the ap
When slamming the gas to wot didn't give me the warning light like twice b4 it did. the only thing is my car still feels slower with accelerating.
When I have the safe chance to do so, gonna do a 0-60 on the ap


