Clutch Pedal won't come back up! HELP!
Since you can't find any fluid leaks, any chance you have air in the slave cylinder?
When I bled mine earlier this year after flushing the brake fluid I had a really hard time getting all of the air out of the slave cylinder (which was different than previous times). It would push out fluid, but still had air in it - and the clutch acted very similar to what you are describing. Only way I could get the air out was to push the fluid out by pushing in the clutch like normal, then with the clutch in and the bleeder still open, move the slave cylinder actuator to pull the fluid back in, then move it back and it would push out air. Took about 45 minutes of doing it this way to get the air out so that it worked normally. I've driven about 5K miles since then and haven't had any issues.
When I bled mine earlier this year after flushing the brake fluid I had a really hard time getting all of the air out of the slave cylinder (which was different than previous times). It would push out fluid, but still had air in it - and the clutch acted very similar to what you are describing. Only way I could get the air out was to push the fluid out by pushing in the clutch like normal, then with the clutch in and the bleeder still open, move the slave cylinder actuator to pull the fluid back in, then move it back and it would push out air. Took about 45 minutes of doing it this way to get the air out so that it worked normally. I've driven about 5K miles since then and haven't had any issues.
When I rebleed the clutch, it made the situation worse. So I wouldn't imagine it would be air bubbles, unless more is getting in their somehow(broken line). But I know it's not from a broken/damaged line since the brake fluid reservoir doesn't get low.
I've talked to Kris@SSP and he's thinking that when the retainer clip popped out like I said on my first post. He thinks that when I put in the seal, shaft, and clip back in.. I might've put it in a little crooked causing either the seal to be pushed back or causing it to get damaged..
Either way, Kris said he's never had the retainer clip pop out on any of his customers, and knows that it shouldn't have done that to begin with. So all I have to do is send him my clutch master cylinder and he's going to fix it with all brand new seals, shaft, clips, etc and send it back to me free of charge.

I'm hoping that the CMC will be the only issue, so I can get back to working on putting my FP Black in.
^^^^
But it definitely sounds plausible. Since I was in a rush to get the stupid clip back on, so it would stop spilling brake fluid all over my interior.. so I guess I could say it was both of our stupid mistakes. Also, it was pretty tough to put the clip back on from how you're angled, especially with a bad back, lol.
But it definitely sounds plausible. Since I was in a rush to get the stupid clip back on, so it would stop spilling brake fluid all over my interior.. so I guess I could say it was both of our stupid mistakes. Also, it was pretty tough to put the clip back on from how you're angled, especially with a bad back, lol.
With a ssp CMC, that is 100% the problem. Replace it with a magnus setup. Fredbeansparts has them all packaged up and rdy to go. Ssp makes complete crap parts, their cmcs fail all the time. No magnus conversion using a jdm 8/9 CMC has failed. Its the only permanent fix. Sorry for the bad news :-(
I've hardly launched my car, and the times I do the revs barely bounces off the two step, so they're fairly light launches.
Hopefully it's the CMC since SSP offered to fix it for free, so I'll give SSP a 2nd shot, if it ends up breaking again. I guess try Magnus, and if it breaks again, I guess I'll break down with it. Lol
But if it's the Slave Cylinder, it's np I guess. But isn't the Slave Cylinder supposed to make the clutch pedal come back up? The problem is if there's slight pressure, the clutch pedal sinks, which seems more of a CMC issue.
On evoxforums, at least 10 ppl have had the same issue you're having. They all figured out it was the SSP cmc. V2, V3, doesn't matter. Save yourself another install cost and just get the magnus now
There's a big thread about the Evo IX/Magnus cmc failing on EvoXForums too. I'm thinking of going with the Spec Stg 3+ and Stock CMC. My friend has it on like that, he hasn't ran into problems, and looks like some other people are doing it too.
It'll hold well on it's own for even FP Black set ups, which is fine for me. Wish I had just done that from the start, my stock cmc is in pieces, 'cause I thought I wouldn't be needing it. Guess I just wasted a $125...
Apparently the Clutch Masters FX300 has less pressure than the Spec Stg 3+, so technically.. the stock CMC should hold the FX300 fine on its own, shouldn't it...?
FX300 is what I'm using right now.
FX300 is what I'm using right now.
There's a big thread about the Evo IX/Magnus cmc failing on EvoXForums too. I'm thinking of going with the Spec Stg 3+ and Stock CMC. My friend has it on like that, he hasn't ran into problems, and looks like some other people are doing it too.
It'll hold well on it's own for even FP Black set ups, which is fine for me. Wish I had just done that from the start, my stock cmc is in pieces, 'cause I thought I wouldn't be needing it. Guess I just wasted a $125...
It'll hold well on it's own for even FP Black set ups, which is fine for me. Wish I had just done that from the start, my stock cmc is in pieces, 'cause I thought I wouldn't be needing it. Guess I just wasted a $125...

I've hardly launched my car, and the times I do the revs barely bounces off the two step, so they're fairly light launches.
Hopefully it's the CMC since SSP offered to fix it for free, so I'll give SSP a 2nd shot, if it ends up breaking again. I guess try Magnus, and if it breaks again, I guess I'll break down with it. Lol
But if it's the Slave Cylinder, it's np I guess. But isn't the Slave Cylinder supposed to make the clutch pedal come back up? The problem is if there's slight pressure, the clutch pedal sinks, which seems more of a CMC issue.
Hopefully it's the CMC since SSP offered to fix it for free, so I'll give SSP a 2nd shot, if it ends up breaking again. I guess try Magnus, and if it breaks again, I guess I'll break down with it. Lol
But if it's the Slave Cylinder, it's np I guess. But isn't the Slave Cylinder supposed to make the clutch pedal come back up? The problem is if there's slight pressure, the clutch pedal sinks, which seems more of a CMC issue.
The clutch slave cylinder is what physically contacts the clutch fork down on the trans so during hard launches/harsh shifting the slave takes most of the force in comparison to the clutch master cylinder...The master has the force of the pedal pressure on one side and hydraulic pressure on the other...The slave has the hydraulic pressure on one side and the force from the clutch fork/pressure plate on the other
Ive had my CMC go out twice. First was the stocker at 9K miles and after upgrading to the magnus it went out again at 14K miles. Do yourself a favor and buy a EVO 8/9 OEM clutch master cylinder and take it to a dealer who can fabricate it onto your car correctly. I cant tell you how much this problem has cost me in the past year.
I'm still sketched about dealerships working on my car, especially a Mitsubishi dealers, LOL! Hate to say it, but I feel like Mitsubishi dealers would be the worst.
Anyways, I have a local shop I know.. they specialize in Audi/VW, but it's a family friend owned business, so I'm sure they'll do good work.
Aslong as they properly bench bleed and install the cmc correctly, it shouldn't have a problem.
For now, I can't really wait for Magnus/SSP to ship their item, so I'll go to a Mitsubishi dealership, buy the stock Evo X CMC. Hopefully last a thousand mile or two, before I get my Magnus.. and go to a Evo shop that I know, and have them install it.
Most people like to run the Spec Stage 3+ clutch(although some people say they're crap clutches) w/ the stock OEM CMC, since it doesn't give enough pressure/stress on the OEM CMC.
But I was talking to Adam from MAPerformance, and he was telling me that the Clutch Masters FX300(stg 3) is actually lighter in pressure. So I'm going to try and running the stock OEM CMC and see how long it holds up. It could either end up in me having to tow my car again, or work really well. And again, Adam doesn't recommend me doing it.. but I guess I'll be one to take the risk. 'Cause the Clutch Master FX300 is more than capable of handling the FP Black w/ a full built motor, supposed to hold up 550-600ish torque.
Here's the damage on my CMC.
Anyways, I have a local shop I know.. they specialize in Audi/VW, but it's a family friend owned business, so I'm sure they'll do good work.
Aslong as they properly bench bleed and install the cmc correctly, it shouldn't have a problem.
For now, I can't really wait for Magnus/SSP to ship their item, so I'll go to a Mitsubishi dealership, buy the stock Evo X CMC. Hopefully last a thousand mile or two, before I get my Magnus.. and go to a Evo shop that I know, and have them install it.
Most people like to run the Spec Stage 3+ clutch(although some people say they're crap clutches) w/ the stock OEM CMC, since it doesn't give enough pressure/stress on the OEM CMC.
But I was talking to Adam from MAPerformance, and he was telling me that the Clutch Masters FX300(stg 3) is actually lighter in pressure. So I'm going to try and running the stock OEM CMC and see how long it holds up. It could either end up in me having to tow my car again, or work really well. And again, Adam doesn't recommend me doing it.. but I guess I'll be one to take the risk. 'Cause the Clutch Master FX300 is more than capable of handling the FP Black w/ a full built motor, supposed to hold up 550-600ish torque.
Here's the damage on my CMC.
Last edited by JiNSOO619; Jul 11, 2011 at 02:10 AM.
The CMC's popped out before, but this time, I just can't get the C-Clip on. Maybe I'm just growing frustrated and impatient 'cause it's happened so many time before, but it's a pain in the **** to get it back on.
I don't think my car is drivable even if I got the clip back on, 'cause it was still sinking down BEFORE the clip popped out, so pretty sure it won't help much.
I don't think my car is drivable even if I got the clip back on, 'cause it was still sinking down BEFORE the clip popped out, so pretty sure it won't help much.


