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Damaged engine on first track day, advice needed

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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 07:04 PM
  #16  
murlo26's Avatar
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Bent crank haha, it could snap or crank but they don't bend. The journals could be really messed up though.

As long as there is no hole there he should be able to reuse the block portion.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ksattic
I recently went to Thunderhill in NorCal, and after just 8 miles on the track, I lost power and heard a sputtering sound from the engine bay. Thinking I had a boost leak, I stopped in the paddock but the car was running fine. No CEL, coolant not overheating (note: I don't have an oil temp gauge). I took it back on the track, and almost immediately I got the same power loss but this time when I stopped in the paddock, the idle was rough. It sounded like the car was running on 3 cylinders.

My car is mildly modded - I have a MBC, drop-in air filter, torque tables upped in the ECU by +5%, and a Z-Chip which I used with a wideband to smooth out my HP/torque curves. My boost peaks at 25psi and tapers to 20 by redline. My big mistake: it was a hot day and I was running 91. I normally have a zero knock count but wasn't logging that day.

I called around a few places but nowhere knew about Evo engines, so I had it towed to a Mitsu dealership. They took off the head and found the following:

- damaged exhaust valve
- warped head
- scored cylinder
- damage to short block (unclear what exactly, they are still looking)
- unclear about piston damage

They quoted me $8300 to fix all that, assuming they can machine the head. I think the quote is ridiculous, but haven't yet looked at the parts/labor breakdown.

I know Speedelement is in the Bay Area, so that's an option. Any other suggestions? While I've got the engine apart, I should probably consider replacing some parts. Is there a thread somewhere with suggestions? I wasn't able to find anything. My goals are currently to become a better driver on road courses but later I will be after some more power. No more than 400whp.
" I have a MBC, drop-in air filter, torque tables upped in the ECU by +5%, and a Z-Chip "

i am not sure that is a right combo from the begin with. MBC for the X with stock ecu and others is a step back, the Z-chip i could never figure it out ,

be smart and drop the MBC use ecu controlled boost and use a proper tuner, you will be much happier and so as your car.

Rob
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #18  
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From: Mountain View, CA
Originally Posted by Kracka
...and also to stop driving and diagnose the engine/problem rather than going to beat on it some more! Heck, for all we know he just blew off the FPR vacuum line and had he plugged it back on after the first session his engine would still be alive.
There were no vacuum lines unattached and no apparent leaks. I took a look at the engine damage this weekend and the tips came off two of the sparkplugs and it was those that damaged the exhaust valves and caused scoring on the cylinder walls.

The MBC and Z-chip have been on the car for a long time. I took a lot of advice from evom when I installed the parts over two years ago and I've had no problems with them on the road, but obviously the track is a different environment. After the rebuild I'll be letting my shop/tuner prepare the car.
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #19  
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Sorry to hear about your car. As everyone else says, go to GST. Razorlab might be able to help you out since he is kind of associated with GST but I would try to call them directly. If you can't get a hold of them there, go to the evoempire forum and PM "GST Motorsports".
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 02:32 PM
  #20  
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That ZChip might have survived in a street environment, but for road racing it needs to be spot on or the engine is going to let go. Excessive timing for the type of fuel being used was likely the cause. The MBC vs ecu boost control wouldn't have been a factor if each setup were properly dialed in for the boost levels that were safe.
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #21  
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From: Mountain View, CA
Originally Posted by Hiboost
That ZChip might have survived in a street environment, but for road racing it needs to be spot on or the engine is going to let go. Excessive timing for the type of fuel being used was likely the cause. The MBC vs ecu boost control wouldn't have been a factor if each setup were properly dialed in for the boost levels that were safe.
My thoughts exactly. You live and learn.

I'm currently talking with a couple of different shops based on recommendations here and will come out of this with a full engine rebuild with better internals and track-safe cooling and power mods.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #22  
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Same problem here - seriously bent intake valves. Timing chain skipped at start-up Took it to the dealer, since I figured it would be the easiest place to go if it were a simple issue.... nope. They quoted me $14,000 after tax to replace the motor.

They told me the motor failed compression test. When I asked them what exactly was damaged and if anything was salvageable the response was "no, we didn't look, but in our experience, the result is normally a new engine". Like F*Yourself.

So I told them to not touch the car anymore and I'd have a flat-bed come to pick it up... decided to finish what they started and took the head off at home.

I found:

- 8 bent intake valves
- scored cylinder
- slight damage to piston


Sorry, didn't mean to hijack lol.

What did you end up doing?? I am in the process of deciding what my most economical options are until I bring the car into a local shop.
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #23  
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From: Brooklyn NY
I had a similar problem few years back and it was a boost leak but only leaked while boosting under load on track. In the paddock it was fine. Usually beyond 15lbs it would leak.
check your couplers. they may look tight but are not
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #24  
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From: Melbourne, Australia
what AFR did you dial in for?
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 08:18 PM
  #25  
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From: Rapid City, SD
Originally Posted by 2Xcited
Same problem here - seriously bent intake valves. Timing chain skipped at start-up Took it to the dealer, since I figured it would be the easiest place to go if it were a simple issue.... nope. They quoted me $14,000 after tax to replace the motor.

They told me the motor failed compression test. When I asked them what exactly was damaged and if anything was salvageable the response was "no, we didn't look, but in our experience, the result is normally a new engine". Like F*Yourself.

So I told them to not touch the car anymore and I'd have a flat-bed come to pick it up... decided to finish what they started and took the head off at home.

I found:

- 8 bent intake valves
- scored cylinder
- slight damage to piston


Sorry, didn't mean to hijack lol.

What did you end up doing?? I am in the process of deciding what my most economical options are until I bring the car into a local shop.
thats a shop that hasn't had very good luck with rebuilds/repairs such as engines and trannys. i wouldn't let them change your serpentine belt. let alone an engine swap.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #26  
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Just a quick update: in the end I had GST rebuild my motor and install a Koyo radiator and AMS SST cooler. Overall I'm very happy with the car. I'm still on a stock tune with no mods but will be getting the car tuned in the new year. Primarily I'm after a very reliable track car and don't really need much more power.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #27  
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From: FLO-RIDA
built motor is 5-6k and head is 2-3k so get it built instead of stock
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