Hello everyone. I'm running a built 2.0 as stated in my sig. As everyone knows, a built motor creates more pressure in the crank case. It is known that crank case vents dont always solve the dipstick popping issue. Right now on a base tune, the dipstick pops up and sprays my engine bay with oil. Our Evo Xs do not have the same dipstick as the Evo 8s and 9s. It does not seem like the Buschur dipstick spring retention kit will work on our Evo X. Does anybody have any solutions or ideas to solve this issue? I'm considering crimping the top of the tube for a more snug fit for the dipstick. I'm looking for a real solution. It doesn't look like a zip ties will work either. Your help is appreciated.

 

I think it'd be a better idea to find a way to reduce crank case pressure. if it doesn't come out through the dipstick, it'll come out somewhere else... that somewhere else can cause more damage than the dipstick...

 

Built 2.0 here also. I put a slight crimp at the top of mine like you said. Been like that for over 16k miles and I haven't noticed any issues.

 

I never understood this issue, is this because the engine isn't holding the boost? What would this happen?

 

It doesn't have to do with boost. I think it just comes from the tighter tolerances of having a built engine.

 

The opposite, it has to due with the looser tolerances in a built engine, allowing more blowby from the cylinders into the crank case.

 

I had the same issue....removing the PCV valve in the front solved my problem...

I got the idea from here and it works for me
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html
From the site. look for the "PCV Setup #3 – Maximum Pressure Relief" setup.





It took me a while to find a fitting that would replace the stock PCV but couldn't find one so I have to modify a AN to NPT fitting. Think I picked up a -8 to 1/2" AN male to NPT male fitting Earl's(Aluminum).

Then I grinded off the threads on the NPT side and re-threaded it to the odd-ball M16x1 (Die can be ordered from the link below)

Part# 2573A675
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/2546/=bnq6gv

 

Thanks for the write up MR Dan. I'll see I can get this to work.

 

I thought the same thing as you then my tuner walked over to my car, pulled out my dip stick, and noticed the o-ring was chewed up for some reason. The dip stick should have resistance on it when your pulling it out if not just replace the dip stick or pinch the top of the dipstick tube

 

The PCV valve gets replaced with another line in the SSP Ultimate catch can just like in the picture. It is true that built engines tend to be a bit loser and expecially when you are breaking them in there can be considerable excess crankcase pressure. Best bet is to get a good catchcan setup and maybe plumb in the extra PCV valve line for extra relief. It also frees up some horsepower when there is no excess pressure in the crankcase as well as allowing the oil in the turbo drain line to flow properly without hitting a pressurized area and slowing flow.

The 2.2L Buschur engine we got for the One Lap MR blew out an extra 2 quarts of crankcase fluid in the first 1000 miles but after break in it's only a few ounces every 1000 miles so you know that Buschur builds em right.

You can get a spring from Lowes or Home depot and drill a hole on the driver side of the dipstick plastic. Then just bend open the spring to the right height and tension you want and straighten the end after it hooks around. Attach the other end to the the bracket that holds the dipstick in place and it should never pop up unless you are literally blowing the engine apart.

 

We just use a big zip tie to hold the dip stick in place. It attaches to the air/oil separator. Cut it and put in a new one when we check the oil. Seems to work.

 

Dipstick crimp for sure.

Otherwise buy the SSP oil catch can, problem solved and some weight savings.

 

Thank you. Today I learned...

 

Quick fix is to crimp it or get slightly bigger O rings. Catch can and PCV valve delete will take care of the real issue though.

-Zach

 

I bought the SSP Catch can. Unfortunately, after removing everything apart and trying to install the lines, it seems as if I NEED the aluminum valve cover for it to work. The 2011s came with plastic valve cover. The fittings wont work for the driver side line by the turbo of the valve cover.