what's needed to power my red?
 

Sorry for being a noob...

So what do i need to power my fpred?

i have uicp, fmic, testpipe, catback, and tune right now. i dont plan to get a o2/downpipe or intake this time around. that will come when i get the manifold and cams. my goal is 400whp+ pump and whatever on race.

i have fpred, 800cc injector coming in.

1. do i need a fuelpump? which? walbro 255? is this a direct drop in? i seen some people run without upgraded?

2. should i get a upgraded wastegate? internal or external? whats the difference? forge or tial?

3. should i run a mbc or go with a upgraded boost pill? seems like most people have a mbc? keep in mind this is with the upgraded turbo, otherwise i wouldnt get a mbc.

4. i plan to have a pump and race tune. so im assuming for a pump i can stay stock on the above parts, but maybe for race gas i need the upgraded parts?


inputs greatly appreciated.

This is a good question bc I am a noobie also and Im always afraid to ask these questions because there are some aholes here that will just mess up your thread.

Yes, you absolutely need a fuel pump. Walbro 255 will do the trick.

You don't need an upgraded wastegate.

I would go with a MBC - its easy to change boost and a solid solution.

Nope you dont need different parts (however if you are running a CAT, the leaded fuel can eventually clog this)- race gas just has more protection against detination (knock).


You need ALL possible bolt-ons in order to use the Red to the fullest.

I would also look into buying cams - maybe something like HKS 272's.




Good luck :)


-Bink

What do you need to power it? Really... just a tune, fuel pump and injectors (plus your mods). The O2 housing/downpipe would be beneficial NOW, as you are removing the turbo anyways. I would suggest you do this mod, at the same time you are doing your turbo.

Walboro 255 fuel pump will suffice. It is not 100% direct drop in. You have to modify the fuel pump housing to make it fit.

Upgraded Internal Wastegate - Forge Motor sports. It won't hurt, and will help you hold boost at the higher RPMS better.

MBC, or ECU BOOST... it's really personal preference. If your getting the ECUTek tune, might as well get ECU boost, with the Pill. (im not sure if ECU flash can control boost).

-Chris

ECUFlash can manage the boost as well as ECUTek, but I'm not sure if it either can hold the 35#+ like on BlackTrack's car. If he chimes in, he can tell you if he has a boost controller or if he's just using the ECU to manage the boost.

The point about boost control is this.. the stock ecu works fine for controlling boost with the stock turbo, once you go up to a bigger turbo not so much. Can it be done, sure, will it be as reliable as an mbc or better yet an ebc, nope, not until there is a patch for the ecu to implement something llike Mr.Freds ecu direct boost control mod.

Although the 10 ecu is more sophisticated than the VIII's and IX's, boost control is still load based and not pressure based which can lead to dramatic boost changes as weather and other factors change.

Gasoline.

save up for a clutch while you are at it

good info everyone, keep them coming if can.

guess i need to find a o2/downpipe i want. i wanted the ams which isnt out, which is why i was delaying on the purchase. maybe ill get some other brand.

clutch fund is ready already, i'm just delaying until the stocker starts to slip.

Just checking here, but it sounds like you're referring to VIII mods, whereas the OP is asking about his X. I only say that because the Walbro 255 doesn't really exist for the X yet unless you get Ultimate Racings's adapter, and I'm pretty sure HKS doesn't make cams for the X yet either.

That said, I think the other posters recomendations are on track. The bare minimums for the turbo are 800cc injectors and a tune. As other have said, you might as well add a clutch and fuel pump to the list. Max safe tune on the stock fuel pump is <380whp, and while the clutch may hold for a bit, it won't last long.

As far as a race tune and a pump gas tune, there is currently no way to switch between the two unless you have a Cobb Access Port or some other method of programming it yourself (no map-switching available yet).

I'm still up in the air on what to do about cams myself. Click here for more info.

Several of us are at the same place as you, so time will tell what works best with the Red.

i delayed on cams because i didnt want to be a guinea pig in houston. shops will do it, but i will be their first.

i do have a cobb AP, but i might switch to ecuflash. both can switch maps on the fly, so thats why i have the option of pump and race tune. maybe add another map for meth in the near feature.

You just said the magic words for big numbers on 93. Go meth and have a tune for that. Turning the meth on is a lot more fun than draining the tank every time you want to put c16 in.

Just curious, why would you switch to ecuflash? I thought the AP was good. I'm looking for the easiest cheapest way to switch maps for E85 or meth as well as 93.

just cost reason, i can save $400 and use that money for a tune.

AP is $675? plus another $400 tune. $1k already...

ecuflash is $180 cable and $400 tune. $600...
or $400 if i just borrow the cable from my friend.

no other reason, i might not but it's a easy way to pocket some money.

Thanks. How long does it take to switch between maps with ecuflash vs how long for the AP? If I go to E85, I want to easily be able to go back to 93 in the winter or should I need to drive somewhere that doesn't sell it.