How much is the oil pan heater?

I assume it is fairly cheap, but if not, you may want to look into AccuSump systems instead... I had one on the ol' VIII and loved it... Nothing beats having an extra pressurized oil that can (and does) push into the system when needed. Turn the key and before startup happens the AccuSump flushes the system. Turn the steering wheel in and lift the gas on a high speed corner, and AccuSump keeps the oil pressure constant. It's no replacement for a factory system, but unfortunately there aren't many car companies out there with oil pressure systems built in.

Regardless, I can vouch that it does get very cold here... And a car that isn't garaged that is of the quality the Evo is, should probably have something helping it out. My insulated garage (big heavy door with insulation material in the panels, and insulated walls) gets down below freezing all the time (coldest I've seen it is around 25*F). I haven't seen temps below 0 in the valley yet this year, but it got to about -5 during the DAY up at the ski resorts a few days ago.

Also, using the 5W30, and being that it is synthetic will help as well, of course.

Also, have you been on the Evo's in Utah thread at all? You may ask it there, someone on there may know a local place to get the heater from.

 

Mobile 1 is available in lower viscosities.

Unfortunately, it appears that there has been a change in testing procedure
preventing a direct comparison across the five lowest VI oils. The traditional
Pour Point, ASTM D 5949] rating has been replaced with the Mini-Rotary
Viscometer (MRV) Test [ASTM D-4684] rating in the Product Spec sheets.

In any event.

 

The wear has nothing to do with temperature and all about lubrication flow.

 

There is a relationship between temperature and viscosity (lubrication flow).

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A very close relationship I might add.

I fly airplanes and we are used to being concerned about keeping or getting our engine oil up to about 50F before starting. I want to treat my X engine with the same "love".

 

Post #9 suggested searching Amazon for the expression "Proheat Fluid Reservoir
Heater." Such a search indicates that ProHeat heaters are available for
$40 to $90 ea, according to wattage. Prices at other sources may vary.
There are also other mfrs of such products.

They have their place, but I disagree about an accumulator (like those available
from Canton or Moroso) being a substitute for the OP's application. An accumulator
will have difficulty discharging when the contents are at low temperatures.

For a first-hand illustration of the problem, try pouring 5W-30 through a
small funnel when the oil is at +65ºF (18ºC), then again when it is at
-20ºF (-29ºC.)

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I just purchased one from www.engineheaters.com for $55 delivered. It should be here by the end of the week. Install should not be difficult. It provides 125 watts of heat model 154. I spoke to the company and this is the size they recommended for the ~4.5 quarts in our X oil pan.

I have an "acusump" Moroso brand on my airplane to prevent short term oil pressure loss durring sump unporting when doing acrobatics. I also use it to pre oil pressure my engine before starting. I get about 30 psi before I crank it. I have a manual valve on it. It holds an addl. 3 quarts.

My airplane also has an inverted oil system on it as well, that does not help for knife edge flight (flying with wings vertical). That is why I added the accumulator. When the airplane engine oil system presurizes it, it reads 80 psi before discharging.

I agree that this "Acusump" oil needs to be warm (50 F +) to be greatly effective for the preoiling aspect. My Accumulator has a Hydraulic quick disconnect and manual ball valve on it so that I can take it inside with 3 quarts of oil still in it and keep it by a heater overnight.

 

Mine never varied in start-up pressure when the temperature changed.... It isn't a substitute, but the OP's application is hardly necessary anyway, I was just suggesting the accumulator system to further the level of protection, or to be another approach to protecting it if the heating systems were expensive.

 

n789db, you might be interested in the Canton E.P.C. electric valve as a
replacement for the existing manual ball valve.

The EPC has a pressurestat connected in series with the solenoid valve. The
solenoid valve is a one-way valve when not activated and will always permit
fluid to enter (charge) the accumulator. Fluid will not be released until pressure
in the oil gallery drops below the set point of the pressurestat on the EPC.

The advantage of this is that the EPC keeps the accumulator full and charged
at the highest pressure attained while the engine has been operating. With
a manual ball valve, the accumulator charge pressure and fill level may rise/fall
in relation to oil gallery pressure.

Perhaps in aviation where engine RPM is largely constant, the above is less of
an issue than in motorsports where RPM (and oil pressure) varies over a wide
operating range.

The Accusump brand name belongs/belonged to the Canton/Mecca
organization. They offer several sizes, including the 3qt unit. The Accusump is
displayed with a blue anodized finish. However, it originally had a natural
aluminum finish back in the m-'80s and came with a Mecca decal on the side.

Moroso also offers accumulators that vary in details but which are generally
similar in appearance and function to those offered by Canton/Mecca. Moroso
simply refers to their product by the generic term 'accumulator'.
.

 

We're on the same page - both trying to help the OP.

.

 

Thanks for the info, that is the exact Moroso accumulator I have. (photo above)
Thanks for all the help you have been.

I don't think I want to add this complexity to my X that I have on my plane.

 

No way.

 

Perhaps you can elaborate a bit more about your reasoning ?

.

 

I think his "No way" was sarcastic. I doubt there is any human being that doesn't know that if you get something hotter, it flows better... Afterall, that's why things go from solid to liquid as they get hotter.

 

I hope that is the case but..........??