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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #1  
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upgrade path

being that i have an evo, i'm getting itchy fingers on doing mods. this is only my 2nd car as i drove a 98 jetta for 10 years. lol. so i'm not too keen on the whole modding thing.

i already ordered rally armour mud flaps (US$135...ouch!) to give it a unique look and protect the paint as i already started getting rock chips at rear rocker/door area (3.5 weeks ownership)

i debaged the rear so only the mitsu logo and evolution badge is there.

i don't really want to do anything hardcore that can ruin my warranty. the power is enough for me now as a DD. i don't need 400WHP or anything yet. mainly for looks.

prolly going to do it within a year. i want to drop it a little and i really dislike the oem exhaust tips...so cheap looking. what should i replace it with? do i have to replace the whole muffler?
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:14 PM
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yea even the turbo
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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cobb ap
drop in filter
catback exhaust

should be a good route if you don't wanna void the warranty
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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I just threw on the Eibach Pro Kit, the stance is much better now... but with the aero kit on, it does sit low. I just went to RRE this weekend and installed my Magnaflow CBE, Cosworth drop-in filter, and got a moderate tune, peakin at 22psi, and I made 315awhp/330awtq on a Dynapack... pretty simple stuff IMO. Totally different car now. I also have only had the X for about 3 1/2 weeks. Good luck with the mod bug!
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:38 PM
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I would get an intake and cat back exhaust and a flash tune for pump gas for the first step. Once you are hooked...

Second step would be to redo top end: cams, valve springs, retainers, fuel pump, fuel rail, head studs, injectors, and another flash tune to max out stock turbo on pump gas.
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Old May 27, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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From: quwew
It's addictive. The whole process of picking out a part, seeing that big box at your door step, installing it (if you can do it), and then seeing the final product is awesome. You will want to repeat this process over and over again.
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Old May 27, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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ra tails
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Old May 28, 2009 | 07:32 AM
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Definitely the RA tails, Catback exhaust, lowering springs. Do that and you'll be golden.
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Old May 28, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocky2
Definitely the RA tails, Catback exhaust, lowering springs. Do that and you'll be golden.
why are some people going with turbo-back instead of catback? are headers necessary before the catback?

also, in the course of doing research, i've seen alot of people saying cold air intake is useless...maybe 1-2awhp gain, voiding warranty, and possible engine lock...however small the chances might be to to moisutre creeping in.

what i have on the list right now that i think i can still stay in warranty period is

drop in filter
coilovers for the drop
non-warranty voiding tune
catback (though i want to check whether this will indeed void the warranty)

for coilovers, i would need to take it tot he shop for them to lower/raise them right? they need to be professionally done as i understand it because if the load balance is off, it can screw with the handling negatively.

coilovers over springs because i live in canada. drop for summer and raise for winter snow. or would it be cheaper to get springs and have the shop switch it out twice a year?
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Old May 28, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vassili
why are some people going with turbo-back instead of catback? are headers necessary before the catback?

also, in the course of doing research, i've seen alot of people saying cold air intake is useless...maybe 1-2awhp gain, voiding warranty, and possible engine lock...however small the chances might be to to moisutre creeping in.

what i have on the list right now that i think i can still stay in warranty period is

drop in filter
coilovers for the drop
non-warranty voiding tune
catback (though i want to check whether this will indeed void the warranty)

for coilovers, i would need to take it tot he shop for them to lower/raise them right? they need to be professionally done as i understand it because if the load balance is off, it can screw with the handling negatively.

coilovers over springs because i live in canada. drop for summer and raise for winter snow. or would it be cheaper to get springs and have the shop switch it out twice a year?
turbo back cuz its give a lot more power but people in U.S dont wana do it cuz they will get caught and charged here in calgary never heard of anyone getting introuble for taking the Cats off, the cold air sounds wicked and looks good also. and according to my dealership it wont void warranty. and if your gonna do coilovers youll save alot of money in the long run because it costs $250 or so to install and remove everytime, and coilovers are better performance wise
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:53 AM
  #11  
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ok, i've been trying to educate myself on the mods that will benefit my MR.

couple of things i want to clarify...

CAI vs. SRI: which is safer for the car? i take it hydrolock isn't an issue with short ram intakes? but SRI is not as beneficial in terms of power. in the 2nd engine bay pic, there's an intake box. is this just a shielded CAI to keep the moisture/heat out? i'm also confused about drop-in filters. where is it located? it's not the same as the SRI right?

UICP: is this really needed? other than looks, what are the benefits of aftermarket UICP without being paired to an aftermarket intercooler?

BOV/wastegate: when is this necessary? upgraded turbos or increased pressure from turbos resulting from aggressive tune?

say i go for a CBE+UICP+SRI + Cobb AP tune (does not register on ECU right?) what kind of power gains should i expect? i hear many people suggest the SST tranny shouldn't be going over 320 lbs/ft torque at the wheels and 350 awhp if you want to keep it safe. what are those numbers at the crank? that's how mitsu state their specs right? 400hp/380 torque?

MR is my DD and i don't plan on tracking, so i think those numbers will be more than enough. hell, i'm happy with stock power right now! i think stock makes something like 230 awhp and 250 torques? with all the additional power from those mods, i should be expecting resistance from dealer regarding warranty right...even those that are considered mod friendly?

thanks for the help guys.
Attached Thumbnails upgrade path-engine-bay.jpg  

Last edited by vassili; May 31, 2009 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #12  
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anyone have any answers for the post above?
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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I wouldnt worry about getting an Intake, just get a aftermarket panel filter it will be more than you need.

The UICP helps even with a stock IC. Its one of the basic mods everyone does.

BOV isnt necessary, the stock recirc is perfectly fine. Get a forge wastegate actuator, it lets you hold boost better up top.

I think the best route for you is the basic mods:

Panel filter (HKS,KN, Cosworth, Works)
UICP(Nisei,Cobb,Ams)
CBE(any)
Wastegate Actuator(Forge)
Tune

Im sure this will net you around 320whp depending on the dyno...

Last edited by Mj23foreva; Jun 1, 2009 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vassili

CAI vs. SRI: which is safer for the car? i take it hydrolock isn't an issue with short ram intakes? but SRI is not as beneficial in terms of power. in the 2nd engine bay pic, there's an intake box. is this just a shielded CAI to keep the moisture/heat out? i'm also confused about drop-in filters. where is it located? it's not the same as the SRI right?
If you want heat soak power loss, get the SRI. If you like cleaning your air filters once a month get a CAI that mounts the air filter near the fenderwell. If you want a good intake that doesn't suffer from either problem get the AEM intake...plus Cobb now offers a free tune to support it.

UICP: is this really needed? other than looks, what are the benefits of aftermarket UICP without being paired to an aftermarket intercooler?
The stock UICP will "balloon" under high boost...hence power loss. An aftermarket metal UICP will not balloon.

BOV/wastegate: when is this necessary? upgraded turbos or increased pressure from turbos resulting from aggressive tune?
Let me stop you right there. You don't need an aftermarket BOV for your application. Keep the stock one.

As stated before:

1) Intake (AEM makes a good one)

2) Cobb AccessPort - Stage 1

3) Cat-back exhaust
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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I just want to point out that basically any modification that you make to your car can void your warranty. If you have done research on these forums then you should know that Mitsu's warranty relies heavily on the dealer you take your car to. No modification is guaranteed to be warranty safe. Many people only add mods that can easily be removed in the event they need warranty work done but this can still involve risk. Its all pretty much do it at your own risk.

I just want to make sure you are aware of that sense you seem new to mods.
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