(3/26 UPDATE:

See my post on page two for the result/solution - got it out, but not so pretty what I found!)





PB Blasted is tons prior to even trying to take it out. Not it's stuck as you see below. Soaking in more PB Blaster. How do I get this thing out? And then do I need to fix the threads of the turbo or the downpipe?

Pretty f'ing unhappy with this right now - only bolt that had an issue while installing my FP Green.

 

Heat. Think you can get a torch back there?

 

does it turn at all or is it completely seized?

 

Some options would be heat like a torch like somebody said, or you could spray some wd40 on it and let it sit in the cracks. Diet coke works pour some on it let it sit the chemical in the coke could help loosen it etc. I remember reading up on that haha, I would recommend diet besides basic because basic has sugars and it get sticky and ya. You could try old fashion too. Wax from a candle too.

 

I work in the aerospace industry and have seen this many times. What you need is kroil. It's one of the best penetrating oils around. I would saturate the areas around threads and bolt continuously for about 15mins. this will allow the oil to work its way down the threads. Slowy and I mean slowly back the bolt out about a half turn at time until the bolt becomes lose enough to remove by hand. Youre also going to need to clean the kroil out of the threads with acetone and then alcohol, followed by chasing the threads.

No offense or anything but this was a very dumb move on your part because you can always feel when a bolt starts cross threading especially one of that size. The problem happened when you realized the bolt was starting to bind and instead of immediately stopping and slowly backing out you decided to crank harder, that is evident by the photo. I see this on an almost weekly basis by dumb *** manufacturing techs who think they can some how force the thread back on track. Please heed my advice i am a mechanical engineer and have a world of experience dealing with this. I have taught classes on how to properly install fasteners due to the lack of common sense by avg. workers

 

I have personally used Kroil ,,, AND awesome !FTW
There is no equal , after i finally plucked the bolt out that i had trouble with ...id just wire brush it and apply some hi-temp anti- seize , If there was any cross threading , ya id surely retap it .

 

Kroil is definitely the best stuff out there. As for options.... well, you can try hitting the turbo with a torch at the bolt hole.

Also, when putting it back together, use anti-seize! I use anti-seize on any nut and bolt on anything related to the exhaust. I've never had an issue with stuck nuts/bolts when taking it apart the next time. I've also never had an issue with any coming loose; always torqued to spec.

 

Try turning the bolt back and forth, like tighten/loosen tighten/loosen only as far as it will move easily. If you do get it out this way you will want to chase the threads with a chaser or tap.

Not uncommon for this type bolt to seize, assuming PB is a true wicking rust penetrant. WD-40 is not even though it says so on the can.

If it won't budge the next step is heat as mentioned, it will come right out but you have to shield or remove anything nearby that could burn.You could try a propane torch but you might need oxy/acetylene. You don't want this thing breaking off, you would have to drill and tap, probably cobalt bit only, very difficult to keep the hole centered.

 

Don't hate Vader x, if you read the OP he's trying to take it off, not on. Not uncommon for this type bolt to seize coming off.

 

Also Im not sure how you originally installed the FP but before you tighten any bolt make sure all bolts have been installed at least 3 full threads. Then hand tighten them followed by torquing in a criss-cross pattern. This will minimize any additional chance of cross threading

 

Geez man, take it easy. Most here are recreational mechanics, no need to call people dumb.

 

Im not hating at all look at his post he stated this happened when installing not removing the fp. He forced the bolt beyond the original binding point just look at the photograph. Look at the head of the bolt. Quite a bit of force has been used to displace steel. Once you go beyond the original binding point there is no way you're going to get it to budge in or out. I see this kind of thing all the time at work. You can clearly see that the two housings dont properly align either which is an indication that the other bolts were fully installed prior to the final bolt going in. Again I am stating evidence this is one of the jobs i am tasked with it has nothing to do with hate just perception.

Best way to put it. Imagine this as a crime scene and i am a decorated detective that has seen numerous crime scenes of the same nature. Now there is a chance that I am wrong but my vast experience would lead me to pick up on things the untrained eye wouldnt and more than likely i would be right in my assessment.

 

I did not call him dumb, I said it was a dumb move on his part. The only people i actually called dumb were some of the people i have had the pleasure to work with .

I know this is a recreational hobby but there should be a common sense type thread of the very fundamental basics of how to work on your car. These arent 2000 beaters we are wrenching. Id advise:

Organization/Preplanning
Tools and what they should be used for
Installing/Removing bolts
Checking fluids
How to disconnect the battery

 

I like the idea. I'd be willing to contribute if you want to get something like that going.

 

You will have to take the bolt back out, likely using a half inch drive and a 6 point. If there are enough threads left in the hole, you will need to buy a m10x1.25 tap and clean out the threads. If the threads are toast, you will have to drill the hole out with a 13/32 drill and put in a helicoil. An m10x1.25 helicoil kit can be purchased at Napa for about $65.00. Doing this while the turbo is on the car is going to be very difficult, if not impossible depending on the size of your drill. So you may have to remove the turbo. I would also remove the turbine housing before doing this. Turbos don't generally like to have drill and tap shavings dropped into them. The good news is that since this was on the install, the rest of the bolts will come out easy because they have a nice coating of anti seaze on them lubricating the threads. You DID anti seaze everything right?