There is a recommendation in the owner's manual...written by the engineers who designed the car. Not Oil Guy Bob or whatever his name is. Also remember - you're not just breaking in the engine during the first few hundred miles. You're also breaking in the tires and brakes and other components.

 

i never broke my car in when i got it with 7 miles. drove it like i stole it!

6 years later with 4 of those years being on 30psi still holding strong!

 

i know on a new engine they recommend you to do vacuum pulls so its sucking out all the debri from the cylinders when everything settles and seats in place, but being a factory built engine as someone said earlier in the post's they run these engines and semi already break them in before you even get them..

i dont think theres really a wrong way to do it. personally id just change the oil sooner for the first 4-5k miles and and take it easy on the car since the parts are new and need to get worn in, clutch, etc..

i agree with atombomb33 to just follow the manual.

 

That's a good point, and to play off of that, not just the wear parts, but also your very expensive differentials, transfer case, and transmission.

Go easy on the car for a bit

 

Very good points. I think what it comes down to is that you're playing it safe by taking it easy. Who knows what kind of gas the dealers fill the tanks with either, not a bad idea to cycle that stuff out anyway.

 

^--- Good point about the gas. I was there in the car when they filled it up at a Shell (I cringed cause I only run 76 super), but who knows on average.

 

http://www.novustechnic.com/breakin_1.htm

extremely good article about breaking a car in. talks about mechanical and thermal break ins and what's actually happening with the metal, and how it hardens over periods of heating and cooling.

big thing to take away (for the very beginning of breaking in a new car) is that the metal in the engine is not perfect - there are microscopic high spots in the motor that cause friction that need to get worn down over time etc.

people in the break it in like you stole it camp seem to just be thinking about the pistons sealing or seating or whatever.. need to actually think about the actual metal of the motor etc, not to mention all of the other components of the car

 

i dont think theres really a wrong way to do it. personally id just change the oil sooner for the first 4-5k miles and and take it easy on the car since the parts are new and need to get worn in, clutch, etc..

THISSS^^^^^^ Most of you will never keep the car ...It will be wrecked, sold, blown engine, repo'd what ever.... so you not your thinking about longevity...so drive it till it drops.

A few folks like what they have and want it around for more then a few years after its paid off. To each his own..

 

My Evo had 2.3 miles on it when I took it for a test drive. Dealer filled it up, threw me the keys, and said to have it back before they closed for the day. 4 launches, multiple sprints redlining 1st-4th, and 40 miles later brought it back. Bought her the next day and have been beating the **** out of her since May of 2006. 51,912 miles later and she runs just as pissed off as ever.

However, I do consider myself lucky. What some of these guys said is completely true. It's so much more than just the engine... the engine is mostly likely broken in before the car is for sale, however the clutch, transmission, diffs, brakes, tires, etc. are NOT broken in.

 

You should brake in the CAR not just the engine....
America favorite idea , the car is nothing more then engine...

Rob.

 

I feel a hell of a lot better now that everybody posted their experiences. Appreciate it. <3

 

i followed the manual, didn't go over 5k until like 600+ miles. after that WOT all day baby oil changed at 2k miles, and going to take it in for another change at 4k. 5k i'm changing all the other fluids as well.

 

Heat cycles are the issues these days. Remember, the pistons are forged from Mahley and there are other components such as the iron liners and the aluminum block that need to settle in together.

Yes, the engines are broken in from the factory and yes it is a synthetic fill.

For ALL your guy's information, most of the information in the manual is written under the guidence of lawyers and the by-laws of the stipulated warranty. Think about this: 1) Break in the engine slowly and do not give way to full boost or high RPM's for the first 1000mi, 2) Drive it however you want and hope for the best. Which of those two reads better?

Look at the evolution of Sportbikes, Chainsaws, etc. that are reving 13,000+ rpm and their recommended break-in. I know of personally those that don't give a flying flip of either and their engines/drivetrains are in perfect order and analysis and break-downs of internals are specd and come out just fine. People have to remember that just because the Coolant temp is fine doesn't mean the internals/oil is up to temp. Most if not all of the wear on a vehicle occurs at start-up = FACT.


Everyone has their special way of doing things and the ticks that follow. But the truth is the truth and technology is chump.


Same thing with the myth about changing your oil every 3,000mi. Don't get people started on stuff like this and the above as the miss-information is beyond believing.



MvP

 

the bike engine brake in is different, since it is a different engine entirely, with example like different bearings too usually, what we have...
Besides what a hell have to do a chainsaw engine with an Evo engine comparison? why we dont talk about the Tank or the Boat engines here too ...LOL
The F1 engines are also combustion engines , but you cant start them if they are cold, they are soo tight, you literally cant turn the engine, so they have to pump the hot fluid /oil and coolant / to warm it up before start. We can get all kind of engines here as an example.... the fact of the matter is , the engine BUILDERS has they own recommendation how you can brake in the engine what THEY designed to get a most out of it.

the engine brake in is written by the engineers who build the engine, not the lawyers.
We just build an engine and it had to be brake in before the dyno tune.

so i am not sure where you going with this your comments here, specially with a miss info's above.


ROb

 

Rob,

4-stroke engines by design share a very similar construct regardless which one it is 2-stroke a wee-bit different but the same in terms of a+b=c. But, you might not know that so I'll give you a pass. And no mate, those recommendations are not written by engineers so you are off the ball on this one. I don't want to get too much into corporate/business law, but you might want a refresher on how things work.

OP,

Research critical thinking engine forums, not newbs or supposed "gurus" under there SN.

Also, none of the above is miss information. Forums are exactly what they are: free opportunity for the clueless to post their limited insight and no-how (know-how) like Rob.



MvP