I have a 2010 SE, currently stock + stage1 93 octane accessport map that I've tweaked a bit myself.

I just ordered a set of Advan RZ-DFs, so the budget is tapped for the time being (and I'll order a set of Blizzaks or Wintersports for the stock rims this winter)...

Next spring, I'll get everything where I want it. The goal is to get everything I can while staying stock turbo and stock motor. Because I have the SST, I don't want to go through the clutch upgrades, and therefore mid 300s is my limit (which should be a full bolt-on system as I understand). This is a daily driver, but I do intend to at least do a little racing as time allows, either drag or course.

I believe my plans should include UICP, LICP, air intake, and a full turbo-back exhaust, followed by a real tune. No problems running catless here in WV either. Money is always a concern but shouldn't be an issue, I want the best bolt-on setup I can get essentially, while maintaining a car that will last 100k miles with no major problems.

Talk me through some of your favorites, and knowing that (for this car) I will be able to stop at full boltons, what's the best I can do?

I have another car that I'm willing to sacrifice reliability and make a racer out of, so this one I'll control myself a bit

 

mmm....sounds like your on the right track, hitting intake, exhaust, get you a 3 port before you get the actual tune, upgrade IC, meth kit since you don't want to change turbo, and really thats about it.

I know when I first got mine, I went with a accessport, aaannnnddd I sold it less than a month later. I took it to the guys at Spec-Ops Motorsports here in NC, I believe they have made trips your way as well, but they use openflash, noticed a big difference compared to AP. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps a little, and congrats!

 

I have to believe either way is equally capable, it's all in what the tuner prefers.

I haven't planned to do meth or the 3 port, but a quick search seems like the 3 port is preferred. The meth is really only if I want to push it though I would think. The IC doesn't have a direct horsepower gain, but I should have put it on my list, as heatsoak is an anti-horsepower gain for sure...

 

I wouldn't do meth. You don't really need it and if something goes bad then your engine goes BOOM!!

I would stay with intake and intercooler piping, catback exhaust and testpipe. That with a tune should get you around 320ish. If you want more, get an intercooler and widemouth downpipe and 3-port. You will prolly be around 340-360ish. My buddy has those mods and he ended up with 360 somthing/370 something.

 

Well, I wouldn't use Meth because he doesn't need it. You're right about the IC and 3-port though.

Second, what you said is very deceiving about the accessport. It is a great tool. But of course you felt a huge difference between an OTS map from Cobb and a protune from Spec-Ops.

 

With the mods in my sig and English tune I am pushing 382 . Stock motor Turbo power baby

 

382 sounds like more than enough for my DD. I won't put that down because the drivetrain losses are a bit higher on an auto I'm sure. I probably won't go with an absolute maxed out no room for error tune either. If you made 382, I'd be happy at maybe 350-360 with the same mods. You all seem to be meeting my target of "mid 300s" with the parts I mentioned + the 3port and IC.

I'll probably go test pipe and downpipe first, exhaust second, pipes third, intercooler fourth. All of these I can confidently tune for myself. Last step will be the 3 port and either tune myself or have it tuned depending on how hard that is. Sound correct?

 

With what you posted you should reach what u want if your confident in your tuning skills

 

Why would you go downpipe as one of the first mods? A catback will give you more gains..

 

He's going Turbo back as posted, why does it matter in what order he does his mods

 

Out of the entire turboback, isn't the cat section itself the biggest gain?

 

If he buys and installs them at different times, then it seems kind of silly, doesn't it?

 

Well, what about the warranty issue? would easily take out you from the their warranty list if you have full turbo back sys. But with only a cat-back plus drop-in, most of time we should be just fine .

 

Heh warranty? I would think the tune is the #1 thing you can do to void a warranty. Granted you can flash back to stock, but tuning is far more dangerous than any bolt-on.

 

Well yea, but I was saying why would you do a DP before a catback. You can make really good numbers with the stock downpipe. Obviously it helps to replace it but it's not like the 8/9 evos where the downpipe would give you huge gains. Ours is just too short to make a huge difference.

After saying that, it would be better to go catback and testpipe and then get the downpipe on the next batch of mods. If you are buying all of them at the same time, well then, that's different..