I just purchased a 2011 Evo X GSR. I have heard different stories when it come to breaking in a new engine. Is breaking in a new engine as important as some people say, or is it just a load of bull? If breaking the Evo X is important, how is it done properly? Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

You should be able to find the break-in procedures in the manual that came with the car.

 

If you've read a lot of the different break-in reviews, than i would take the average responses and go off that. Many people have different opinions... like 1800 miles is good 3k is great and 6k is preferred.

Many people do ignore the break and go straight for the mods. I personally am waiting till around 4.5k to start my modding adventure.

 

I didn't wait...I did spirited driving here and there off the lot. I took it easy from 600-2500 though. Didn't really pass 5KRPM.

 

There are two trains of thought:

1) Take it easy for 500-1000 miles not going over a certain RPM and more importantly not staying at a constant RPM.

2) Drive it like you stole it right off the lot


I have owned three new cars, I went with #1 every time. It gets difficult when you have a long way to drive home from the dealership trying not to stay at a constant RPM. What I did was speed up to about 80, then slow back down to 60 for the entire 90 miles home.

 

Here is what NISSAN does for the GTR. Please note they litterally throw the motor on a DYNO and go full throttle to seat the rings.

http://www.insideline.com/nissan/gt-...bly-plant.html

So the answer to the question for breaking on your EVO. Do the same thing. Drive it like you stole it.

 

service manual, the car has more parts then engine. For an example clutch, brake discs , brake pads etc.

 

Great point, the dealer also told me not to hard break for 600 miles.

 

The manual sais to keep the rpm under 5000 for the first 500 miles. No redline!
Also stay off the brakes and try not to stop the car abruptly, try to drive like a grandmother at list for the first 500 miles. I have not seen anything in the manual about constant rpm changes, but that seems to be recommended by most people on this forum, so i figured it can't hurt.

 

skip reading all the rationale behind what you should do for break in period and just play it safe at 1,000 in my opinion. If you try to figure out what you should do you will end up spending months reading crap on the internet about what to do...meanwhile a thousand miles rolls by and your good either way. Breakin period on a car is more about breaking in everything else besides the motor...they are basically broke in when installed...it's the other parts on the car you got to let mate up with each other, bushings, suspension, transmission..... 1000 miles and your good

edit: agree with the guy above, easy on the brakes for a few hundred miles otherwise you might have squeaky brakes forever..

 

Thanks for all of the imput! Its my dream car so I am going to take it easy. Or at least try my best too.

 

I've read bunch of things and heard different things as well. When i bought my 370z brand new i broke it in as per the manual. When i got the Evo, i decided to break it in like it was ment to be driven. I picked the car up with 50km on it, drove it around all day nice and easy. Got 300km on it that day and went to the drag strip. Ran 13.5@101 right off the bat. At 3000rpm i did the first oil change, not to many metal shavings. At 4000km i did my first Time Attack and the car ran amazing. I'm now at 4500km and it still runs smooth. Shifts ALOT smoother then it did the day i picked it up....and a alot smoother then when i went to the drag strip. Like the video with the GT-R above. Running it hard right off the bat will seat the piston rings in and take the groves that are on the sidewalls of the block. The theory behind that is, if you break it in hard you will get the best power/fuel economy and oil consumption out of your engine. Does it work? well my fuel economy is pretty good. I havent lost a drop of oil at all and i havent dynoed the car so iiunno about power.

All that goes for other parts on the car as well. If you break it in the way you plan on driving it, the parts will get "groved" into the best possible way...if that makes any sence. All you gotta remember is when you are breaking in the car and if you are doing it hard...make sure the car is at normal temps, dont start beating the **** out of it when its cold and just fired up. Also remember to keep an eye on all your fluids, tire pressure, brake wear...all that good stuff.

 

A friend of my recommend me reading this URL:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

and that what I did on my new Evo X. So far so good.

 

great... this page is one of the most referred page by those who didnt brake the CAR in.

There is many problems here when you apply this for the NEW Evo.

First of the Evo is not a bike neither a snowmobile... these engines are different. Just because they are internal combustion engines doesn't make them a same engine... Apples and oranges , perfectly fit here. Engines designs and builds - used materials etc is very different even between car manufacturers, and we just talking about cars. Now you bring here bikes and snowmobiles.
Second the Evo has more parts then the engine itself, which needs to be taken care of for a better performance and longevity etc.
Not to mention this is one guy wrote web page.... Who is he anyway?
You trust more in one who knows who , then an engineer group who build a car what you have, and follow they own instruction about they very own engine and car?
Kind of a smart approach, i think....

just for example from this page:
"On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears ! "
Even his brake in method is super safe, LOL go out there on public roads and nail it, but watch out for cops, make sure no one will flat iron you when you doing this, from behind...... LOL
He is a bloody professional and we all should follow his golden words, with a brand new car. Forget everything else.

Cheers Rob

ps: worth to mention the fact, he is talking about engine ONLY, not even a clutch.

 

Better, it's the only site referenced in such discussions, as if it somehow makes for an undeniable proof. Forget about decades of automotive wisdom, forget about the factory recommendations. Just do what some random guy on the internet says and you'll be fine. Unbelievable.