Hey guys so I just recently picked up a 2011 evo x GSR, and im about to hit 5k miles and loving it every step of the way

I actually have a few questions to ask but wanted to start off with this:

I just put a bushur racing catback exhaust on my car (to stay warranty friendly). I love this thing its great, so the other day I bought a halman pro boost controller from a fellow evo x owner along with a boost guage. So now im wondering, will it be safe to hook up the boost guage and put in the manual boost controller without a tune? All my car has done is the catback, or will it not be safe to run this type of setup???

If it is alright to do this, then my other question would be what is a good and safe boost to set it to with just the catback? I called ETS and Michael told me it will be completely safe and that he recommends running 20psi to stay safe without a tune. To be honest I don't even know what stock boost is haha.


And another question, I have a 2011 and stumbled upon this:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...y-package.html


Do I need this if I have a 2011? Because I have experienced that sometimes if I park at a slight incline the car starts up and has a terrible rough idle for a split second, and sometimes will crank 4-5 times before starting.


All this help would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks evo bros.

-Pat

 

not many morning people on evom i guess

-Pat

 

Anybody know? Was hoping to throw this on today.

-Pat

 

Help would be greatly appreciated!

 

just my , I would stick with your OE electronic boost controller and not mess with your boost (factory hits 23psi and tapers to like 16psi at readline in my GSR).

If you plan on getting tuned, instead of using the mbc you purchased, buy a 3port and get tuned with the 3port EBC.


As far as the relays, I haven't looked at my 11'GSR to see if they are the old or new, but given how catastrophic the failure *can* be if the relay's suck, why not spend the money on new ones. I've had no indications that mine are bad with starting, fueling etc, but seems like a very cheap insurance mod.

 

I have only owned my 2012 X GSR for a couple of months so don't take my answer as gospel. This just comes from a lot of reading.

I am under the impression that a manual boost is more dangerous (but I don't know much about the one you got) because the cars computer can't protect the car from over boost like it can with the electronic ones. I have also heard that with the stock turbo you don't even need to change the boost controller. Personally I would go for the tune and forget the controller to be on the safe side.

Again, this is just my understanding, since nobody else answered I figured I would at least say something.

I am sure somebody will correct me if I am wrong.

 

That kind of makes no sense because of 3 reasons, and im not trying to argue either just putting in what I know.

-Technically you "don't need anything" but this is modification and everything helps the car. When your using the stock boost controller\solenoid idk if you guys have a boost guage but it tapers down from like 20 pounds to 16 even lower close to redline. A MBC will prevent this by simply holding your current boost better so it doesnt taper down the higher on the rpm scale you get, instead itll hold the 20 pounds of boost as efficiently as possible and will cause less taper, therefore not really actually giving you any hp gain, but itll help you hold your hp instead of lose it in the higher rpms as our cars are terribly known for.

-I would LOVE to tune my car, however it voids the warranty, so this is not an option for me as I am not looking to void the warranty on a car I just busted 32k for.

-Why would a MBC be more dangerous and how? Like I said I'm not looking to install it and just crank the boost up, I'd be keeping it at like 20 pounds which is pretty much stock, the only reason why I see it logical is because it'll hold the boost better and won't allow it to taper, and since our tunes are pretty pig rich I doubt it would cause harm on the stock tune.

Once again, a tune is not an option

Would be great to get Michael from ETS to chime in.

Thanks guys,

Pat

 

How does the tune void the warranty? From what I have read they can flash it back to stock. Dealer won't know the difference.

Won't a 3 port help hold the boost but still allow the cars computer to jump in if something goes wrong and the MBC starts to overboost?

 

Throwing that boost controller on your car is going to void your warranty as well. So if you're going to void it then at least be safe about it by getting it tuned with said controller. As you stated, you just spent 32K on the car right? then I don't think you would want to shell out another 10K+ on a motor build because you decided to ride around with a boost controller without tuning for it.

I'm a safe than sorry kind of guy so......

 

Cool, I wasn't far off with my advice. I am learning. LOL. I guess the whole warranty thing is a whole other debate.I paid 40k for mine and as much as it would be nice to have a warranty, it's an Evo, they are bought for the most part because of the modifications that can be done. As they say, you gotta pay to play. Best bet is to stay stock if the warranty is the issue, modify if that is more important than the warranty. Not sure we can have our cake and eat it to.

 

I can EASILY pull off a manual boost controller without leaving any trace for the dealer to know it was on.

The evo X ECU stores any tune you did to the car even if you reflash \put stock map back on...Sorry I didn't bother to state that hope it kind of cleared something up.

-Pat

 

Is that proven? From all my lurking around here I have read mostly that it doesn't count the re flashes.

 

It's all still kind of in the dark but, personally being a small local tuner Im 99% sure evo x ecu's have flash counters. Back in 09 people were saying if you use ECUflash it would count the flash but if you used an AP noone would know, which i think personally is a load of horse ****. My main concern would just be going to a big shop or pro tuner and having him misplace my ROM id and then when i need to flash my car back to stock he flashes it back with the wrong romid. Thats what apparently happen to some guy that got his car tuned at AMS and they made that mistake so his blown motor claim was rejected.

All the info is still kind of unknown I guess because not many people have been gotten that much major warranty work done, which is a good thing I guess, but I definitely wouldn't want to be the first few to test the theory.

-Pat

 

Yea I decided to do a little search on this. It is still unknown. Read something stating there was a counter but that the program the techs use at Mitsubishi doesn't access the counter. I am going to ask my tuner if he has the abilty to save my stock tune and put it on a memory card for me or something. That way I can take it back to him if something goes wrong. But in the end, I bought the car to mod it. No way I am going to be able to wait until the warranty expires. I only have like 5800 miles on it. I just put an ETS intake on it, so I would have to remove that now. With any luck it will be like my 330i. 4 years and 65k miles and never needed warranty work.

 

Running more boost (above the load point where the OE EBCS tapers your boost, without tuning fuel and timing, is *ASKING* for your engine to lean out under load which is quick way to get rid of your rods.

This is by far the most retarded thing you could do. You *REALLY* should ditch that manual boost controller you bought and just run bolt-ons that are safe on the OE tune, like a nice ETC intake, Upper and Lower IC pipes and cat-back.

If you really want to dive into the MBC concept, realize the car tapers boost of it's factory tune. However, the OE tune is crazy rich, to the point where it's almost too rich and washing the rings. But if you are going to error too rich or too lean, rich is the way you go.

Aftermarket parts aren't all just bolt-on in concept. Knowing which parts to run, and when and how to run them is what makes it all work. A MBC is a good thing, if it's in conjunction with a tune. Some tuners like them because they are mechanical and easy and eliminates a lot of load table and target pressure tables in the tune. My my opinion, but with the Evo (or a subaru) you should select a tuner that is all about diving into the EBCS and the ECU tables to control it properly.

If you honestly don't want to void your warranty, I would suggest sticking to drop-in filter, IC pipes and cat-back.


A tune is altering the factory programming of the car and *will* void warranty claims should you car have drivetrain failure.

Living your life on relying that you can just unmarry an AP should something fail is DISHONEST. Really, think about it. You modify your car, you select a tuner to tune it. The tune and/or parts fail in someway and you don't recognize the failure quick enough to prevent drivetrain failure, and then you hide what you did and expect Mitsu to pay for the repairs? Pay to play. Don't fear it, but get over the concept of being dishonest. It hurts all Mitsu car owners in the long run .

A 3port is fantastic upgrade for EBCS, however because it will actuate differently than factory, you *will need* a tune to support it's use.

And someone mentioned about the 3port earlier. Yeah really the 3port is best as an upgrade if you're going to target over 25-26psi, however how fast it lets you build boost will be better over the OE one, but if you're just going to tune for like 25psi, you really dont *need* a 3port.





Talk to a tuner Bugguy, let the tuner help you out on what upgrades you should or shouldn't make.