Can somebody explain to me the diff between all the flippin HKS BOV's? Which one should I get if I simply want a recirc BOV? Does the recirc still make the bird chirping sound when pressure relieves?

 

Well the V1 had a adjustment knob on the back and the rest are dont
there all basically the same beside some minor tweaks here and there
any will work for both VTA and recirc
And no you will not get the chirp sound if u recirc

 

He has an open air element on his AMS intake and will still hear it. It just won't be as prominent.

 

He will hear a woosh noise, as the silver insert is what causes the high pitch noise, and you cannot run that with the recirc fitting.

The original one, from the late 80's, was called the "HKS Super Sound". It used a single valve setup. They're next to impossible to find.


The "new" valve from the mid 90's was the "HKS Super Sequential". It uses a dual valve which prevents air leaks. They had a black adjustment screw on the back of the housing.


The "v1" valve from the early 00's was the "HKS Super Sequential". It uses a dual valve like the original one, but omits the adjustment screw.


The "v2" valve that was released a few years ago, still the "HKS Super Sequential", uses the same dual valve, has no adjustment screw, and has the newer half-cut shroud as pictured.


The "v3" valve Super SQV 3 features include a nickel-plated, die-cast metal secondary valve, which is swaged to the primary valve, a stainless steel C-Clip and spring to increase sealing and durability. To assure buyers that they are purchasing an authentic HKS product, the new design incorporates a holographic HKS logo on the back of the valve, as well as additional HKS logos cast onto the body structure.

This was a big issue that I found in the v1s and v2s, as the plastic valve was prone to failure, and would cause a massive boost leak. The outer housing was also changed to thwart counter fitters.


"v4" changed only the housing and shell, from what I can tell.

 

/\ Great post above.

If you want a loud BOV that holds boost very well you could always go with the TiAL Q. I ran the old 50mm on my IX with no issues. You just need to make sure to read your vacuum on your boost gauge and use the right spring.

They also make recirc versions like the QR.

 

Do yourself a favor and not buy a HKS regardless of the version. Now that you have the knowledge of all the revisions and what they look like. Buy one of the below;

Cobb XLE BPV:
http://www.cobbtuning.com/Mitsubishi...V-p/752650.htm

Go Fast Bits T9033 Respons:
http://www.maperformance.com/go-fast...gfb-t9033.html

TurboSmart Dual Port:
http://www.maperformance.com/turbosm...-specific.html

Just sayin'.

 

retired from MAP?
What are you doing now?

 

Retired things.

 

^ +1 to the above post.. or do your self another favor and keep the stock recerc valve untill you do a full on build then go and buy one of the above.
synapse... did i get that right? also seem to have a good rep on the forums.

wow that was quick.. couple posts in a couple seconds.. reguardless adam brunson has the right idea.

 

HaHa, sorry I'm a bad *** lol.

Sorry, I actually forgot Synapse. That is also a good unit, however setting it up right for some people can be a pain. I would stick with one of the three above. Or, if your not making anything over 375whp stick with the stocker.

 

Thanks for the help guys really explained a lot!!

 

Not a problem!

 

For future reference, since people may link to this thread later.

v4 now includes a serial number on the bottom of the back housing. Internally, nothing has changed since v3.

v4 serial location

 

They can still fake those tho.

To OP: I love my HKS valves, I've ran them on several of my cars without issue, except once, when I got a fake one. Assume every valve on eBay is fake. If you're gonna buy HKS, just buy it from a real vendor like MAPerformance or AGPTurbo