Prepping my Evo for Alaska...need suggestions
Prepping my Evo for Alaska...need suggestions
Well it looks like I'm going up to Fairbanks Alaska in December and I'll be bringing my Evo X with me. Looking for suggestions on things I should do before I start heading up there. Will be driving from northern MN. Car hasn't been driven in the winter yet so I know new tires(suggestions??). I'm also planning on getting a board rack since I do a lot of snowboarding but I'm hoping to not have to install it before the trip and just fit everything inside so I can save on gas. How about engine heaters, transmission heaters, mud flaps? How does this car react to severe cold? This will be my first winter in almost 5 years so not really looking forward to it.
=Jason-
=Jason-
Well it looks like I'm going up to Fairbanks Alaska in December and I'll be bringing my Evo X with me. Looking for suggestions on things I should do before I start heading up there. Will be driving from northern MN. Car hasn't been driven in the winter yet so I know new tires(suggestions??). I'm also planning on getting a board rack since I do a lot of snowboarding but I'm hoping to not have to install it before the trip and just fit everything inside so I can save on gas. How about engine heaters, transmission heaters, mud flaps? How does this car react to severe cold? This will be my first winter in almost 5 years so not really looking forward to it.
=Jason-
=Jason-
You'll no question want a block heater and such because it gets damn cold up there. (0 to -40F below) Many locations, such as grocery stores even have plugins in the parking lots because of how cold it gets up there. Picking up some rally armor mudflaps would be a great idea and if you have the available funding, get some clear bra installed as well. Get an autostart installed as well if you have someone available before heading up.
Not sure how many Evo guys up there but there are quite a bit of Subies and they seem to make it through. It's definitely rough on the vehicles but you can get by with proper prep. Make sure you have an underpanel as well. I'm also not too sure if you'll be able to get any good runs up there, mid Alaska is primarily flat, all the good runs are in the Southern area with resorts like Alyeska and plenty of helicopter services as well.
We also have an Alaska thread section here on EvoM, you'll be able to get more answers to your questions there. The Evo community isn't big here, we don't have a Mitsubishi dealership anymore either. OEM parts I think are being dealt with by the Infinity dealership in Anchorage, no idea if anyone is handling services anymore. Not sure about Fairbanks but you'll pretty much be looking at having to special order everything from out of state. Also for what we do have in Evos, most of them seem to keep to themselves, those that are friendly either post on here or on Nasioc in the AKIC division. You'll be able to get a lot of info from the motorsports in Fairbanks by visiting there. Expect to be dominated by the Subaru community but most of them are a great bunch of folks, they'll wave to you once they begin to recognize your car.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/no...laska-232.html Link.
Last edited by EvolvedAK; Oct 19, 2012 at 12:12 AM.
Here's my suggestion: TRF small brakes, 16x7 wheels, and a 225/55/16 tire designed for deep snow, like a Hakka 5. Blizzaks are a great tire, but they are more of a compromise between snow and ice, and are actually not that great in deep snow. You want less siping and more void for deep snow than a Blizzak.
Step 1: Ditch the stock advans. (first and foremost)
Step 2: Plenty of good stuff listed above.
Make sure your car is in "good repair" with all maintenance taken car of. New fluids, new lubricants, charge system check etc. On that note I'd personally advise to make sure your battery is in top shape because the cold can kill it real quick.
Also you may want to plasti dip your wheels so they get a tad more protection from salt and gravel hits. I thought I heard some places spray the bottom of the car to help with the salt but that may have been years ago before they got good with treating the frame/chassis of cars for rust.
Step 2: Plenty of good stuff listed above.
Make sure your car is in "good repair" with all maintenance taken car of. New fluids, new lubricants, charge system check etc. On that note I'd personally advise to make sure your battery is in top shape because the cold can kill it real quick.
Also you may want to plasti dip your wheels so they get a tad more protection from salt and gravel hits. I thought I heard some places spray the bottom of the car to help with the salt but that may have been years ago before they got good with treating the frame/chassis of cars for rust.
For just snow and not having the hassle of the plastic ripped out by snow and/or chunks of ice, sure, any metal plate will do. For actual peace of mind and real protection, you want a real skidplate. Oh, and if you're worried about the hydraulic, brake, and gas lines under the driver's feet, TRF has a plate for that, too. I have the first one.
Step 1: Ditch the stock advans. (first and foremost)
Step 2: Plenty of good stuff listed above.
Make sure your car is in "good repair" with all maintenance taken car of. New fluids, new lubricants, charge system check etc. On that note I'd personally advise to make sure your battery is in top shape because the cold can kill it real quick.
Also you may want to plasti dip your wheels so they get a tad more protection from salt and gravel hits. I thought I heard some places spray the bottom of the car to help with the salt but that may have been years ago before they got good with treating the frame/chassis of cars for rust.
Step 2: Plenty of good stuff listed above.
Make sure your car is in "good repair" with all maintenance taken car of. New fluids, new lubricants, charge system check etc. On that note I'd personally advise to make sure your battery is in top shape because the cold can kill it real quick.
Also you may want to plasti dip your wheels so they get a tad more protection from salt and gravel hits. I thought I heard some places spray the bottom of the car to help with the salt but that may have been years ago before they got good with treating the frame/chassis of cars for rust.
There also isn't that much deep snow, you'll mostly be driving on packed/crusty or plowed snow conditions. (Cold and very dry climate) High snow fall areas are in more southern locations such as Girdwood and further.
Last edited by EvolvedAK; Oct 19, 2012 at 04:47 PM.
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A TRF skidplate is cheaper and will actually protect the car. You can't lift the car using a jack under the SSP plate; you can with a real skidplate such as that made by TRF.
For just snow and not having the hassle of the plastic ripped out by snow and/or chunks of ice, sure, any metal plate will do. For actual peace of mind and real protection, you want a real skidplate. Oh, and if you're worried about the hydraulic, brake, and gas lines under the driver's feet, TRF has a plate for that, too. I have the first one.
For just snow and not having the hassle of the plastic ripped out by snow and/or chunks of ice, sure, any metal plate will do. For actual peace of mind and real protection, you want a real skidplate. Oh, and if you're worried about the hydraulic, brake, and gas lines under the driver's feet, TRF has a plate for that, too. I have the first one.
=Jason-
The undertray will help from damaging anything important that you may hit that could be hidden in deep snow. Also, keeping that engine bay pretty!







