So I just discovered that my ebrake won't hold my car up on a hill and I just slide down. Do I just tighten the ebrake handle? If so what exactly do I tighten? Thank you

 

Man that sucks. I use my ebrake quite often when driving on hills

 

Remove the center console and tighten the cable adjustment.

 

I would follow what Kracka said first, but the majority of cars have self adjusting parking-brakes, but it requires you to keep using it. (pull it up and it makes the ratcheting side, then drop it down and do it again) it should create more tension.

On some cars from the 90's (camrys I think it was), the parking break adjusts when you back the car up. But I don't think they've been like that for awhile.

Anyhow, something to try.

 

Also might be time for new pads. I found out that ebrake pads are drum and they don't use the caliper brakes. If you take back rotors off you'll see your ebrake pads. I replaced and then had great ebrake's

 

Usually those brake shoes don't wear out...unless you drive with your parking brake on

 

^^ lol

 

Where's the cable adjustment at or what'd it look like? That little bolt the cable wraps around?

 

I don't think that's be the issue, because my ebrake feels kinda loose like when I move it left to right and wiggle it

 

The wiggle is kind of normal. When I just changed my rotors and pads I noticed that my rear Ebrake shoes were quite worn. I haven't ever driven while it was on and never pulled it while driving.

I don't think that's the problem tho.. I think that the Ebrake needs to be adjusted..

 

Mitsubishi spent time making a PDF service manual. Maybe you should take a look there.

 

Its either e brake shoes need to be adjusted (there's little inspection window on back of rear backing plate) or ebrake shoes need to be replaced. Sometimes rear rotors need to be changed as well to make things work. If you end up replacing shoes make sure You buy OE mitsu because aftermarket ones s... . Good luck

 

I would suggest you would need to adjust the parking brake shoes in the rear rotors. There's only so much adjustment that can be made at the handle.

 

I agree that it's better to adjust at the drum than at the handle, but that's not that big a deal. As to wearing out the shoes, I took them from new to rivets in one season of practicing my hand-brake turns. It's a heavy car and they aren't the greatest shoes. If you do anything fun with the hand-brake, expect to need new shoes. Oh, and you might need new rear rotors, too. They took almost as much damage from my games as the shoes. Cruddy metal.

 

'DO NOT just tighten the handle adjustment and drive off'

The handle is for cable stretch slack adjustment. If one parking brake is worn or not self-adjusting - tightening only the handle can cause one brake to drag/overheat -badbadbadbadbad...

You must jack/jackstand the rear end and pull wheels.

Start at the drums first. Inspect them and then (and only then) can you tighten the handle. Ensure when you release the handle that the brakes fully release as well...