I'm looking to shave a few pounds before Fridays drag night. Taking out the passenger seat would help but what do you guys do for the srs light? Or does it even come on.

 

If you don't want to have to visit a dealer to clear the code, you must disconnect the battery when doing the work and install the correct resistor on the air-bag wire before reconnecting the battery.

 

This puzzles me.

I had the p/s seat removed (while i installed amps) and drove it to work a few times (SLS on). Reconnected the connectors and no problem (SLS light/re-set needed)...

I 'assume' my seat airbag would have worked (but the control unit is under the p/s seat - so i guess i am glad i drove carefully....

For a race - I would 'want the airbag functional' for sure

If it is 'truly important' to remove the seat - then i suggest you remove the airbag control unit and bracket from under the seat and zip-tie it to the floor vent...

 

I apologize. I was possibly wrong. More searching (because, as luck would have it, my new seat came yesterday) reveals almost as many posts saying that the code clears itself as there are posts saying that the code cannot be cleared by anything other than a MUT. While I'm delighted for Veronica that she didn't need to visit a dealership, I, personally, would not take the risk, especially when jamming a 3.3 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor into the connector takes about five seconds.

 

Having just put in a new driver's seat this past weekend, after reading a lot of posts on the process, let me add two things:

1) if you do replace a front seat in an Evo X (and are confused by all the different suggested values for the air-bag-line resistor), I can tell you that 2.5 ohm, 2 watts works fine. You wire four 10 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors in parallel to get this. Radio Shack pn 2711101.

2) taking out the passenger seat for drag-racing would be a total pain. If you ever have the passenger seat out of the car with the battery hooked up, you will end up needing to have the passenger-seat weight-sensor recalibrated. This can only be done with a MUT and will cost you $100. There are a lot of better ways to make gains that would equal reducing the car's weight by 1%. Or just spend the time practicing your launch timing, instead. When you're always cutting lights by less than 100 milliseconds, you're ready to take 30# out of the car.

 

Well I put the seat back in and the srs light didn't come back on.

 

You ran the car with no passenger seat (and, therefore, a disconnected weight-sensor) and didn't get a light? Interesting.

 

taking the seat out is not really worth it , I've ran with and with out it. It really doesn't make that much difference you will probably get better result with taking out some air from the tires to get a better launch.

 

No I took the seat out and the srs light came on but when I put the seat back in the srs light went off again.

 

Well I removed about a 100lbs off the car by removing other stuff as well.

 

In that case, you were a tad lucky. Several people have reported that removing the passenger seat and connecting the battery forces you to have the weight-sensor recalibrated.

 

that has been the case on the 08-10s speaking with alot of service managers ect since i been having issues seems as the 11-13 or somewhere in there u might not have to be re-calibrated. but of course not one will say YES.

 

to completely take out the passenger seat, make sure you have a "star" hex tool to take out the star bolt the seatbelt is bolted onto the seat.

driver side is bolted to the chasis.
passenger side is bolted to the seat.

 

Rather than say "'star' hex tool," how about being super useful and saying Torx T50. Just sayin'.

 

Yeah I saw that and thought wow okay.