Figured I post up here and get some comments/feedback on if things are looking ok or to go another route.

I already have my ETS UICP and short shifter which I plan to put on in the next week or so. Then I am going to order the AEM gauge that has both the boost and A/F built in one.

I anticipate then getting an ETS intake (not changing MAF size) as well as a catback exhaust (still up in the air but will either be ETS Quiet, Perrin, or Buschur crossflow).

Finally for this year will be a 3.5 FMIC.

I do not plan on tuning until next spring. From what I have read everything should be relatively safe on there pending I don't beat the heck out of it.

Last pieces will be a grimmspeed, HFC, and then the tune. I really wanted to go with a handheld tuner like Cobb. Unfortunately I am seeing that they only support their parts on them and for the most part I would have to do some manual changes myself which make me feel rather uncomfortable. Always been a fan of them for the most part but looks like I will be getting shop tuned next year.

Any suggestions/feedback?
Just want to make sure this is the basics and doing things in the correct order.

 

Your order is correct and IMO optimal.

You can get a Cobb AccessPort and have a pro-tune for any set of equipment.

 

You will be ok with the ETS intake and CBE. You should be ok with the FMIC as well.

I bought the Cobb AP and ran those mods in stage 1. For the most part they all did well together. Later I installed the DP and TP (HFC) to the exhaust and flashed for stage 2. My stage 2 was running dangerously lean during WOT though so I actually flashed back to stage 1. I didn't keep it like this for too long though before I had my protune done.

 

I would recommend getting a tune/Cobb AP and 3 port EBC at the same time you get the intake if you can. I know it's weird but the tune is where all the power comes from on the X. You will notice very little gains with an intake/exhaust/FMIC without a tune. The AEM gauge is nice, good choice!

 

Thanks everyone. Yeah I don't plan on much of a gain at all with just the bolt ons before a tune. Taking it a bit slower since it only has 3K miles on it and piece by piece just to retain the warranty for a tad longer.

As for the Cobb AP and a protune....that would be the AP and getting a tune by a tuner and uploaded on there, correct?

 

Your order is wrong. Get a three port, wideband and go get your car tuned. Get a cable, evo scan and ecu flash. Start reading the ecu flash section. Add parts and make the necessary adjustments to your fuel table to keep your afr's where they're suppose to be. If at any point in time you feel over your head, go back to your tuner.

 

I got the Cobb AP for a few reasons. One was because I wanted to do like you and slowly mod. My car is my DD and modding it was a process that took awhile.

I was completely stock and received my AP and flashed to stage 1. This really gave the car a good wake up. While in stage 1 I received my intake and TBE. I installed the CBE section and intake (ets). Later on I then installed my FMIC and UICP and still kept it at stage 1.

I then had all my gauges installed and the DP. This was when I flashed to stage 2. But doing some pulls I saw on my wideband that it was lean. I flashed back to stage 1 and had my protune scheduled about 5 days later.

The night before my protune I installed my fuel pump. Then when I took the car to the tuners I had them install my 3port and the injectors before they tuned.

I had a dual tune (93 and E85) and both tunes were done on the AP so I can map switch as needed.

So the AP allowed me to get more out of the car while stock. It also allowed me to add mods as I got them in and had time to do it. And it allows the dual tune and map switch. Now the EcuFlash allows for similar, I am just not all that familiar with it all.

The very last thing I bought the AP for, some will look down upon. And that is if need be, the car can easily be flashed back to stock incase of needed warranty work. Now I know some will flame because of that comment but my mentality is F Mitsu .

My relationship with Mitsu has been almost like a marriage, alot of ups and downs. All in all I have purchased 5 new Mitsu's, close to $150k worth of cars (in 5 years), and they refused to give me my customer loyalty on my last purchase. So anyways F Mitsu and if I have to get serious warranty work done, I like to know I can revert to stock and flash back. Kind of how most Evo owners do the same when they decide to trade their car in. Which are usually the same people who will flame you for warranty fraud.

 

Hey Ken how does your car run? Is it a major difference? I still haven't put a singl emod on my car. I have 15 thousad dollars worth of parts just waiting.

 

Huge difference man. Even with stock parts on the car, flashing to a stage 1 cobb map made a huge difference IMO. I'm on E85 now and the car is so smooth. I also bought an escort 9500 and have been buzzing around everywhere.

You know I traded in my 12 for a 13 recently. My 2013 didn't even have 2k miles on it when I started modding lol. But after driving around my stock 2012 for 15 months, I was just ready to mod. The stock Evo is by no means "slow", but i was not really impressed with the stock form. After modding it feels like a whole new car and I am really digging the E85

 

IMO, you don't need a new FMIC until you get to a bigger turbo. The stock IC does a good enough job with a stock turbo.

 

Bobby, that is true, but if the mod bug hits the OP, he will be glad that he has a bigger IC. I have the ETS 4." on a stock turbo for the moment, but as I get more serious, I will have room to play with. I have learned over the years to do it right the first time, otherwise you will be taking parts off to upgrade even more. Ask me how I know...

 

+1

I am on a stock turbo also but I am planning for a turbo upgrade maybe in about a year. Hopefully even less if I'm lucky. I bought the 3.5" FMIC though but I think it will still be good enough.

 

Sounds good my friend. At the moment, my IC is overkill, but I plan on an ERL 2.2 in the future along with a Precision 6466 or the like. I cannot tell you how many times I have bought aftermarket parts for cars of mine based on what I thought was the limit of what I was going to do, only to completely change my mind later and end up selling said parts.

 

No. If you don't have actual dyno results and logs to prove this don't post it. It gets around and everyone thinks its right after while. I gained 19whp after installing my intercooler and SHORT downpipe, yes those are the parts everyone says dont do anything...

OP, I wouldn't do the intake and intercooler till I get tuned but that's just me and I like to play it super safe.