I'm somewhat new to the Evo community, but not new to tuning cars.

I've been reading over this forum finding great information, but there are a couple things that I can't seem to get a clear answer about.

Downpipes: I know w/o a tune, they do almost nothing for power gains, but with a tune do they really yield much power? Some say only get this if you plan on upgrading your turbo, some so no power gains but turbo spools faster etc...

Intakes: Same thing here, are they mostly for looks and sound? Yes, there are dynos on websites shpwing HP gains, but from what tuners have informed me it's not the actual intake, it's the fact that your ECU leaned out your AF ratio more...something like that. Also, that all the open element intakes no matter what suck in hot air.

Testpipes: I have a feeling this actually makes a difference both in power and sound.

FMIC/UICP/LICP: Once again, tuners have said yes and no depending on your mod route.

All in all, I believe there is no greater HP gain than a custom tune.

I have a 2014 MR with Cobb AP stage 1, MXP CBE, Cosworth drop in filter and some uninstalled H&R spings. I have roughly $1,500 to throw at my next few mods and want to make it count!

Plan on getting my tune at Road Race Engineering.

I need your help guys...from experience.

 

I would definitely say get a test pipe and 3 port bcs minimum. The rest is up to you and what your tuner suggests.

 

I always start with an intake kit and a full exhaust system; above all else, that is how air enters and leaves your engine. Those, plus a 3-port BCS, and a tune is a great basic setup. If you still have money left then do the intercooler and piping.

From where you are now, with $1500, here's what I'd do:
-full intake ~$270
-HFC (since CA) ~$325
-downpipe ~$255
-3-port BCS ~$115
-custom dyno tune ~$400??? (guessing on price, not sure what RRE charges)

This leaves you a little leftover to start saving up for an intercooler and pipe set. These prices are straight from Cobb's site for Cobb parts; I used them since you already have the AP. Buying used will save you money, and/or buying other brands could go either way on cost. This also assumes you do all your own install work.

Or, you could save the money from the dyno tune for now, run Cobb's Stage 3 OTS map, and put that money towards an intercooler and IC pipe set THEN get the tune.

Being you're in CA, I'd definitely suggest sticking with a HFC rather than a testpipe and going with a CARB-approved intake (Cobb, K&N, AEM...not sure who else).

 

I like this idea and it would actually be most favorable, BUT... since I don't have all COBB products (such as my CBE) will I have any issues with their OTS maps? I think I remember reading that their maps are designed with their own products in mind.

Also, would you say the COBB OTS map compared to a custom tune yield similar power gains?

 

You can run Cobb's parts or something similar. Having another brand of catback won't be a problem at all. I would definitely stick with their 3-port BCS though and suggest either their intake or something very similar in design (such as K&N or AFE). Their parts will be the safest bet when using their OTS maps though.

A custom tune (assuming a skilled & qualified tuner) will almost always make more power so that really comes down to how much you're willing to spend. Since you already get the OTS maps for free maybe try it out first and go from there. Once you're using it, you can decide if you'd rather spend the money on a custom tune or maybe additional parts first then a custom tune later on.

 

Pretty much what Kracka said except for the high flow cat. No reason to get a high flow cat just because you are in CA. I'm pretty sure most, if not all, don't have an ARB EO so are just as illegal as a test pipe. In addition, high flow cats do not pass california's emission standards not including any other mods you are planning to have on your car. I would suggest a test pipe and keep your OEM cat for your first smog check in 6 years.

 

None are legal

however, if you go through a rolling smog check point, the infrared scanners that use will detect that a cat is there if you run a HFC, so it will save you hassle

and with a HFC, it is likely that the car will run clean, should they stick a sniffer in your exhaust.

That being said, I have only personally seen 1 rolling smog check point in the ~12 years that I have been driving in southern California.

 

Ok, I'm thinking I'll try out these OTS maps and see how I like them. More than likely will get a custom tune down the road.

Great advice man!

Yea when I was at my muffler shop the guy was saying HFC and test pipe are both illegal in CA. Will I get a CEL?

 

I'm willing to take that risk. #YOLO

 

From what I know, you can decline to participate in a roadside smog check. But I have never seen one in all my years in CA.

http://www.epa.gov/oms/regs/im/roadside.pdf

But I wouldn't put it past CHP to ticket someone for a "different" reason if they decline to participate. Loud exhaust, tinted windows, too low, too fast, too cool looking --> probable cause --> look under your hood ---> ticket ticket ticket.

 

With a testpipe, definitely, with a HFC, maybe. You can disable the CEL code with the AP though. I'm guessing their Stage 3 OTS map already has it disabled by default.

Keep in mind that the Stage 3 OTS is designed to be used with a 200-cell HFC. You should be able to run a 100-cell or testpipe without too much issue, but no guarantees.

 

Thanks man! Is that you in your avatar?

 

Nope, that's another member local to me, I wouldn't dare putting my ugly mug up online.
I should switch back to my Billy Mays avatar.

 

Ahahaha! that's comedy, but no offense to his face, moreso the way he looks. Wait...

 

Here's the original...posing by his new Evo!