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New evo! Help with logs?

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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
DirtyX's Avatar
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From: Portland, ME
Thumbs up New evo! Help with logs?

Hi all,


Been lurking the forums for a while now, I guess it's about time I say hi!


I've wanted an Evo ever since I hitched a ride in a friend's Evo IX over 8 years ago. Loved the look of the X when it first came out, and now with the news that is no longer going to continue the Evo, I just had to jump into one.


Bought a used 2014 Evo X MR about a month ago with a little over 9k miles, it looked well maintained, but the car had a rough idle and a rattling noise while at low speed. Got it checked out before purchase and it got chalked up as being "normal" issues for Evos. Immediately took it to the dealership to get it serviced and checked again. Got the oil changed and the rattling heat shield bolted down, and even though the rattling noise has gone down a bit, it's still there. The rattling seems to be coming from directly behind the engine, below the visible heatshield. I haven't gone digging further. It's only audible while stopped or driving less than 20 mph.


I then ziptied my lines, swapped my relays (the fuel pump relay that was installed on the car was definitely bad), and I'm currently waiting for new spark plugs to arrive in the mail in hopes of addressing the rough idle. I haven't taken the old ones out yet, but will diagnose when the time comes to swap them. The idle dips every once in a while almost as if the car was about to stall, but it immediately kicks up again. It seemed pretty rare a month ago, but now it's becoming more common. I haven't noticed any power loses or hesitation during regular driving, although the car bucks when reversing.


Making plans to take the car down to Kaizen in MA (live in ME) for a turboback and some gauges, but in the meantime I installed an AP and running a Stage 1 OTS map.


Now this is my first boosted car and I am pretty much a complete newb when it comes to turbos. From what I've gathered, my actual boost levels seem fine, but my WGDC correction is all over the place. Can someone look over my logs and make sure things look normal?


I've attached two 20 min cruises and three 3rd gear pulls. Pretty sure I had my foot firmly to the floor, yet throttle angle never hit 100. I may have backed down a bit on one of them, lots of wildlife in the area and I'm not in the mood to play chicken with a moose in my new car.


Thanks guys and I'm happy to finally join the community
Attached Files
File Type: csv
WOT 3rd gear 1.csv (28.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv
WOT 3rd gear 2.csv (20.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv
WOT 3rd gear 3.csv (46.3 KB, 0 views)
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 06:11 PM
  #2  
Napalm_Enema's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Houston
Ok stop right there.

Don't run an MR with an Accessport. It's a recipe for a bad running EVO.

Revert it to stock, then get it tuned when you take it to Kaizen.

Enjoy the car, but that's 99.9% probably your issue.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 07:05 PM
  #3  
DirtyX's Avatar
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From: Portland, ME
Sitting in the car, reverting it now. Had the rough idle before, so not expecting that to go away, but the sst has definitely felt a lot notchier since I installed it.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #4  
Napalm_Enema's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by DirtyX
Sitting in the car, reverting it now. Had the rough idle before, so not expecting that to go away, but the sst has definitely felt a lot notchier since I installed it.

Thanks for the advice.
I would just drive it easy, and have the shop look at it. My 2014 has zero 'rough idle'. It sounds like whoever had it before you modified it, reverted it to stock, and traded it. They may or may not have taken off all the parts that were on the car. You could try and take some engine bay pictures so people can help identify anything visible, but I'd take it super easy and have a pro look at it if it were me.

Enjoy it's a great car and I'm sure you'll get it sorted.

What sort of warranty do you have? If factory, you may just want to get it to the dealership first, have them get it 100% under warranty, drive it for a while to see if it is solid, then start modifying it. The SST is extremely expensive to fix or replace so I'd err on the side of caution if it were me.
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