Clutch burnt out at 14000 miles?
It's not that hard bro, just learn your car. the very very very first car i every owned was a evo 8 in 2004 and owned it for 10 years. It was my very first manual i have ever driven without ANY practice. I learned from playing video games. I stalled the evo 8 like 4 times and ever since then it never happened again. Just get used to it, down shift and rev match all the time unless you are already going slow. If you are in 4th gear and coming into a turn... brake until the car is slow enough for the turn and shift into 2nd and rev match while turning and go about your business. If you are on a hill, pull up the handbrake while you are in 1st gear and push the accelerator while releasing the clutch SLOWLY until you feel it grab and want to move and then put the handbrake down. by this point your car wont even roll back 1 inch. It's all a matter of driving and learning the techniques. NEVER launch the car. Seriously not worth the risk. Enjoy. ALSO, remember... it's a lot of money to change the transmission and clutch and that brake pads are very cheap... throw that **** in neutral sometimes and just cruise to the stop light. Their is no need to down shift every time... you have brake pads for this reason... they are cheaper.
Rev match all the time and don't launch the car = long life clutch. I got over 110k out of my STi stock clutch with mods and DRIVEN hard, but always rev matched on downshifts and when passing etc..
My clutching method -
Clutch in - put it in neutral
Clutch out - rev to rpm of intended gear
Clutch in put in gear
Clutch out and accelerate
This needs to be done fairly quickly so rev to account for the time it takes you to shift and clutch out.
I do this very fast now, because it's natural at this point.
My clutching method -
Clutch in - put it in neutral
Clutch out - rev to rpm of intended gear
Clutch in put in gear
Clutch out and accelerate
This needs to be done fairly quickly so rev to account for the time it takes you to shift and clutch out.
I do this very fast now, because it's natural at this point.
It's not that hard bro, just learn your car. the very very very first car i every owned was a evo 8 in 2004 and owned it for 10 years. It was my very first manual i have ever driven without ANY practice. I learned from playing video games. I stalled the evo 8 like 4 times and ever since then it never happened again. Just get used to it, down shift and rev match all the time unless you are already going slow. If you are in 4th gear and coming into a turn... brake until the car is slow enough for the turn and shift into 2nd and rev match while turning and go about your business. If you are on a hill, pull up the handbrake while you are in 1st gear and push the accelerator while releasing the clutch SLOWLY until you feel it grab and want to move and then put the handbrake down. by this point your car wont even roll back 1 inch. It's all a matter of driving and learning the techniques. NEVER launch the car. Seriously not worth the risk. Enjoy. ALSO, remember... it's a lot of money to change the transmission and clutch and that brake pads are very cheap... throw that **** in neutral sometimes and just cruise to the stop light. Their is no need to down shift every time... you have brake pads for this reason... they are cheaper.
Only reason why I don't throw it in neutral immediately is because the car speeds up, plus if something happens I need to get back in gear. I can understand how annoying someone Rev matching in traffic would be. Lol
Couple things:
If you can't shut off the car while it's running, then you have an electrical issue. (Is your EVO Fast Key eqquiped?)
If Ignition is 12volt constant and your engine is currently running, the only way to render the issue would be to separate the ignition wire. You can do this by pulling the main ignition relay. This will shut down the car for now.
Do you know if the car has any other electronics in the car? Like an aftermarket turbo timer or remote starter? Look underneath the steering column and take a look to see if there is any aftermarket products there.
Sounds like you have the ignition latched.
If you can't shut off the car while it's running, then you have an electrical issue. (Is your EVO Fast Key eqquiped?)
If Ignition is 12volt constant and your engine is currently running, the only way to render the issue would be to separate the ignition wire. You can do this by pulling the main ignition relay. This will shut down the car for now.
Do you know if the car has any other electronics in the car? Like an aftermarket turbo timer or remote starter? Look underneath the steering column and take a look to see if there is any aftermarket products there.
Sounds like you have the ignition latched.
Funny you say this because I saw a 350z doing this the other day. Bumper to bumper traffic and rev matching/down shifting... lol
Couple things:
If you can't shut off the car while it's running, then you have an electrical issue. (Is your EVO Fast Key eqquiped?)
If Ignition is 12volt constant and your engine is currently running, the only way to render the issue would be to separate the ignition wire. You can do this by pulling the main ignition relay. This will shut down the car for now.
Do you know if the car has any other electronics in the car? Like an aftermarket turbo timer or remote starter? Look underneath the steering column and take a look to see if there is any aftermarket products there.
Sounds like you have the ignition latched.
If you can't shut off the car while it's running, then you have an electrical issue. (Is your EVO Fast Key eqquiped?)
If Ignition is 12volt constant and your engine is currently running, the only way to render the issue would be to separate the ignition wire. You can do this by pulling the main ignition relay. This will shut down the car for now.
Do you know if the car has any other electronics in the car? Like an aftermarket turbo timer or remote starter? Look underneath the steering column and take a look to see if there is any aftermarket products there.
Sounds like you have the ignition latched.
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