Cobb AP worth it?
Cobb AP worth it?
So I have a GSR
Intake, UICP, TP, exhaust, 3PBS, o2 dump dp, fmic
The latter 2 not installed, cars just been sitting all year.
There is no tune, as it is I get OB if I try to get on it. And I'm not paying for step tunes, hence why I dont drive the car.
Are any of the OTS tunes on a AP good for that setup, if I finally put on the rest of that ****?
Intake, UICP, TP, exhaust, 3PBS, o2 dump dp, fmic
The latter 2 not installed, cars just been sitting all year.
There is no tune, as it is I get OB if I try to get on it. And I'm not paying for step tunes, hence why I dont drive the car.
Are any of the OTS tunes on a AP good for that setup, if I finally put on the rest of that ****?
OTS or protune
You really should get a protune it will be safer than any cobb OTS tune.I have cobb stage 3 with a protune never bothered to try a OTS one,my tuner actually placed the tune on my AP.
No don't get an AP. Worst thing I ever did for my car was to buy it. Its expensive and you have to take another 100 dollar class to take online classes to mod the maps on your own. Cobb treats Mitsubishi like a step child because it is not their main money maker so support for it isn't as good as the STI is. My opinion its not worth it. The list can go on but I would rather not talk about it or it will make me pissed.
I went with a protune instead of the cobb, they are similar in cost since you need to get some gauges set up as well with a protune.
Really it's just up to you, both have their benefits. But I personally felt safer with having a professional tune for my specific car so I know it's safer and I don't have to worry about it.
Really it's just up to you, both have their benefits. But I personally felt safer with having a professional tune for my specific car so I know it's safer and I don't have to worry about it.
I don't see what the issue is with the AP. If your tuner is competent, your car will run right. The AP gives the average guy the ability to switch between maps, to go back to stock in 15 seconds and some useful gauges. I really don't see the problem.
Only down side is that you have to pay extra for the AP so if the other features of the AP are worth it to you is for you to decide.
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I think you're missing your own point though...
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
I think you're missing your own point though...
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
I think you're missing your own point though...
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
$500 for the AP + $300 for the tune
or
$170 for tactrix + $300 for the tune
And you know that with a tactrix it literally takes like 2 mins to go back to the stock rom? you just plug in the computer and load up the stock and boom, done. Just like with the AP.
The only features that AP has over tactrix are the OTS maps which are bad for the Evo, and it has digital gauges. But the AP's gauges are pulling data from the ECU, which doesn't use a wideband sensor, it has a narrowband.
So an aftermarket wideband gauge and an aftermarket boost controller are going to be more accurate than the data feed from the AP. But as for ease of use, yes the AP is easier to use I guess if you aren't great with a computer.
AP is just a handier device to me than lugging my laptop around. Again it's just want convenience is really worth to you.
My thought/question is this:
My car has possibly an unknown tune and unknown history. It looks to have have had mods on it before and put back to stock. It had a test pipe when I got it, which I didnt know. Also details I didnt know about like the FMIC plastics missing, and no heat shield, meaning the whole turbo system has been swapped at some point, and even a non stock clutch, Which I also didnt know about (didnt know how stock should feel - but someone at a reputable shop pointed all that stuff out)
I've gotten the car back to FBO status while I figure out what turbo to go with, yet I cant get on boost otherwise CEL for OB will pop.
I KNOW I need a tune, but that's $500 or so to tune for that set of mods. Then another tune for the next stage. Where Im at, paying some guy for a tune for 320ish WHP seems a waste. If I can throw a OTS that just eliminates OB CEL, sounds ok?
If I'm correct, can't I flash a stage 2-3, then once I have a real turbo, get a real tune for that on the AP?
Also I'm Ohio, is there a recommended tuner and do they flash to an AP?
Hell even better, a $150 V2? (Im not concerned about gauges, I have all gauges anyway)
My car has possibly an unknown tune and unknown history. It looks to have have had mods on it before and put back to stock. It had a test pipe when I got it, which I didnt know. Also details I didnt know about like the FMIC plastics missing, and no heat shield, meaning the whole turbo system has been swapped at some point, and even a non stock clutch, Which I also didnt know about (didnt know how stock should feel - but someone at a reputable shop pointed all that stuff out)
I've gotten the car back to FBO status while I figure out what turbo to go with, yet I cant get on boost otherwise CEL for OB will pop.
I KNOW I need a tune, but that's $500 or so to tune for that set of mods. Then another tune for the next stage. Where Im at, paying some guy for a tune for 320ish WHP seems a waste. If I can throw a OTS that just eliminates OB CEL, sounds ok?
If I'm correct, can't I flash a stage 2-3, then once I have a real turbo, get a real tune for that on the AP?
Also I'm Ohio, is there a recommended tuner and do they flash to an AP?
Hell even better, a $150 V2? (Im not concerned about gauges, I have all gauges anyway)
My thought/question is this:
My car has possibly an unknown tune and unknown history. It looks to have have had mods on it before and put back to stock. It had a test pipe when I got it, which I didnt know. Also details I didnt know about like the FMIC plastics missing, and no heat shield, meaning the whole turbo system has been swapped at some point, and even a non stock clutch, Which I also didnt know about (didnt know how stock should feel - but someone at a reputable shop pointed all that stuff out)
I've gotten the car back to FBO status while I figure out what turbo to go with, yet I cant get on boost otherwise CEL for OB will pop.
I KNOW I need a tune, but that's $500 or so to tune for that set of mods. Then another tune for the next stage. Where Im at, paying some guy for a tune for 320ish WHP seems a waste. If I can throw a OTS that just eliminates OB CEL, sounds ok?
If I'm correct, can't I flash a stage 2-3, then once I have a real turbo, get a real tune for that on the AP?
Also I'm Ohio, is there a recommended tuner and do they flash to an AP?
Hell even better, a $150 V2? (Im not concerned about gauges, I have all gauges anyway)
My car has possibly an unknown tune and unknown history. It looks to have have had mods on it before and put back to stock. It had a test pipe when I got it, which I didnt know. Also details I didnt know about like the FMIC plastics missing, and no heat shield, meaning the whole turbo system has been swapped at some point, and even a non stock clutch, Which I also didnt know about (didnt know how stock should feel - but someone at a reputable shop pointed all that stuff out)
I've gotten the car back to FBO status while I figure out what turbo to go with, yet I cant get on boost otherwise CEL for OB will pop.
I KNOW I need a tune, but that's $500 or so to tune for that set of mods. Then another tune for the next stage. Where Im at, paying some guy for a tune for 320ish WHP seems a waste. If I can throw a OTS that just eliminates OB CEL, sounds ok?
If I'm correct, can't I flash a stage 2-3, then once I have a real turbo, get a real tune for that on the AP?
Also I'm Ohio, is there a recommended tuner and do they flash to an AP?
Hell even better, a $150 V2? (Im not concerned about gauges, I have all gauges anyway)
And yes... Like posted above, you can run a OTS map for now and get a custom tune later.
Last edited by .M.; Sep 4, 2016 at 06:03 PM.
oh yeah, car has a cobb 3 port as a left over.
so then it becomes v2 or v3. guy selling a v2 for 120? V3 worth 350-500 compared? I dont care about the gauges. anything else make it worth? v2 can load ect just the same?
so then it becomes v2 or v3. guy selling a v2 for 120? V3 worth 350-500 compared? I dont care about the gauges. anything else make it worth? v2 can load ect just the same?


