Just joined forum so go light on me.
I'm not an expert on SST
But I do have pretty much the same car as you, I am using a cobb stage 3 set up dyno tuned the car is making about 283 at the wheels my tuner went conservative on the tune as I wanted the utmost reliability as this is my daily driver.If I added uicp and licp I could probably have hit 300 at the wheels and this will probably be my next mod.Now i had to have my transmission rebuilt several months ago as it took a crap 1st gear was blocked so it would automatically switch to 2nd gear.I don't know about the UK but here in the US there are only like 2 or 3 companies who have real experience working on the Evo X sst tranny it isn't cheap 2k dollars just to rebuild that is not including pulling the transmission out and shipping it across the US and then getting it reinstalled.My advise to you is keep the torque under 350 and you won't have to upgrade the transmission anything close to that and the 2k clutch pack job would be required.Are you going to track the car or is this just a road warrior? Known issue SST transmission cooler required for extended track use as the tranny will overheat also a Surge Tank because of fuel starvation issues when making hard turns with less than half a tank of gas in the car I think.Other than that I still have my car after almost 3 years thinking of getting something different but the evo just gives me a smile everyday.
If you engaged with a good e-tuner they would guide you into safely tuning your car. I can't speak for their methods as I am lucky enough to live in the same town as Kozmic, but I can say that a properly tuned MR is ...wow.
I have heard of many success stories with e-tuners, and the horror stories of people that had an MR tuned by a tuner lacking knowledge of the SST have had very very large repair bills. With the MR you get it right or you will know very very quickly that you got it wrong lol.
I have heard of many success stories with e-tuners, and the horror stories of people that had an MR tuned by a tuner lacking knowledge of the SST have had very very large repair bills. With the MR you get it right or you will know very very quickly that you got it wrong lol.
Im going to contact Kozmic ASAP.
SST definitely needs software mods..even with a stock ECU the delays in clutch engagement/release in normal mode and sport modes are unbearable. If you try to take off quickly at an intersection in normal or sport you end up dribbling into the middle of the road before the X decides to play ball.
When I slam down the gas with a new exhaust on, the sound will be embarrassing without these problems resolved..I will sound like a first time stick shift driver burning out my clutch.

Thanks for your advice. 
Im going to contact Kozmic ASAP.
SST definitely needs software mods..even with a stock ECU the delays in clutch engagement/release in normal mode and sport modes are unbearable. If you try to take off quickly at an intersection in normal or sport you end up dribbling into the middle of the road before the X decides to play ball.
When I slam down the gas with a new exhaust on, the sound will be embarrassing without these problems resolved..I will sound like a first time stick shift driver burning out my clutch.

Im going to contact Kozmic ASAP.
SST definitely needs software mods..even with a stock ECU the delays in clutch engagement/release in normal mode and sport modes are unbearable. If you try to take off quickly at an intersection in normal or sport you end up dribbling into the middle of the road before the X decides to play ball.
When I slam down the gas with a new exhaust on, the sound will be embarrassing without these problems resolved..I will sound like a first time stick shift driver burning out my clutch.


As you are currently, and best practice for the MR to prolong clutch life -
Always drive in S-Sport manual
Let car warm up before punching it
Change SST fluid every 30k
Last edited by Napalm_Enema; Sep 1, 2016 at 07:41 AM.
Thanks again for your advice Napalm. You guys over that side are definitely clued up on Evo's.
I will get in touch with both of them. I will also search more on the forums but I was under the impression that E-tunes required logging a few pulls. Won't I risk problems if I log pulls on my stock tune and my new exhaust set up is installed?
Or are you suggesting uploading and E-tune on the SST only. Is this possible?
I will get in touch with both of them. I will also search more on the forums but I was under the impression that E-tunes required logging a few pulls. Won't I risk problems if I log pulls on my stock tune and my new exhaust set up is installed?
Or are you suggesting uploading and E-tune on the SST only. Is this possible?
You will also need a wideband sensor, if you want to get E-tune. Otherwise, it won't be possible to give you a reliable tune. You do not need to mount the gauge if you don't want to, just put it in the glove box. I had the AEM wideband gauge in the glove box for almost a year before I get it mounted.
When they are done with it it will shift crazy fast in S-Sport and Sport will feel like S Sport does currently and normal will feel about the same maybe a touch smoother.
As you are currently, and best practice for the MR to prolong clutch life -
Always drive in S-Sport manual
Let car warm up before punching it
Change SST fluid every 30k
As you are currently, and best practice for the MR to prolong clutch life -
Always drive in S-Sport manual
Let car warm up before punching it
Change SST fluid every 30k
I'll flush and service the SST before my tune..along with a coolant and oil change.
Nothing to worry about, I got E-tune on my car. The tuner will give you a based map that works with your list of installed mod. Just make sure you give him the FULL list, so he can give you the correct base map to be used, then you can log your car a couple of times, first driving normally, then 3rd gear WOT, or whatever your tuner requires.
You will also need a wideband sensor, if you want to get E-tune. Otherwise, it won't be possible to give you a reliable tune. You do not need to mount the gauge if you don't want to, just put it in the glove box. I had the AEM wideband gauge in the glove box for almost a year before I get it mounted.
You will also need a wideband sensor, if you want to get E-tune. Otherwise, it won't be possible to give you a reliable tune. You do not need to mount the gauge if you don't want to, just put it in the glove box. I had the AEM wideband gauge in the glove box for almost a year before I get it mounted.
For boost reading whilst underway I have an android head unit in the car so I will run torque or something similar...
I may be going down the Cobb route to log and then upload the new map. This seems the cleanest way to do it for an e-tune. And I like the fact I can switch maps simply. Unless I'm missing something though I don't think anyone has uploaded a new TCU tune for their SST transmission through Cobb.
Kozmic should be able to answer me on this..
Definitely I agree, a wideband sensor is essential for fine tuning. I'm not a gauge guy, I prefer to keep things on the low so the glovebox is a good idea.
For boost reading whilst underway I have an android head unit in the car so I will run torque or something similar...
I may be going down the Cobb route to log and then upload the new map. This seems the cleanest way to do it for an e-tune. And I like the fact I can switch maps simply. Unless I'm missing something though I don't think anyone has uploaded a new TCU tune for their SST transmission through Cobb.
Kozmic should be able to answer me on this..
For boost reading whilst underway I have an android head unit in the car so I will run torque or something similar...
I may be going down the Cobb route to log and then upload the new map. This seems the cleanest way to do it for an e-tune. And I like the fact I can switch maps simply. Unless I'm missing something though I don't think anyone has uploaded a new TCU tune for their SST transmission through Cobb.
Kozmic should be able to answer me on this..
Gauges are nice, and are a good idea, but not necessary unless you start making a lot more power than simple boltons imo. (I don't have any gauges on my car presently)
Definitely I agree, a wideband sensor is essential for fine tuning. I'm not a gauge guy, I prefer to keep things on the low so the glovebox is a good idea.
For boost reading whilst underway I have an android head unit in the car so I will run torque or something similar...
I may be going down the Cobb route to log and then upload the new map. This seems the cleanest way to do it for an e-tune. And I like the fact I can switch maps simply. Unless I'm missing something though I don't think anyone has uploaded a new TCU tune for their SST transmission through Cobb.
Kozmic should be able to answer me on this..
For boost reading whilst underway I have an android head unit in the car so I will run torque or something similar...
I may be going down the Cobb route to log and then upload the new map. This seems the cleanest way to do it for an e-tune. And I like the fact I can switch maps simply. Unless I'm missing something though I don't think anyone has uploaded a new TCU tune for their SST transmission through Cobb.
Kozmic should be able to answer me on this..
You really need AFR to accurately tune your car without worrying about some complications down the road. Of course that also depends on having a good tuner. You should also stop by EVOX forums and say hi. It seems there are two group of people active on each forums (both are knowledgeable), but EVOX forum primary cater toward the X generation, hence the name.
Ask a lot of questions before you start moding heavily or you are bound to waste a lot of money like I have! LOL. Good luck!
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