Hey all.

That wonderful time has rolled around. My bumper to bumper expired a few months ago on my 2014 MR, so it's time to finally take all those pennies I threw into a jar, break open the piggy bank and play with my car a bit. Let me just get my plans for the car out of the way. I'm hoping to get close to that 400WHP mark, I don't intend to start building some monster 700HP Evo right out of the gate or expect miracles and magic to happen and land 500WHP from some bolt-ons and a few tweaks. Nor do I care about how far I can get my speedometer to climb. I like 0-60, 0-100 suck the eyes into the back of your head type stuff. My Evo is mostly relegated to "recreational" use, and isn't a DD. For the foreseeable future (next 3-4 years), I don't plan on ripping the engine out, balance/blueprint, sleeves, having it bored to a 2.2,new bottom end, ported heads, new turbo, going the whole 9 yards, etc., or any of that. Right now my goal is getting the 'basic' bolt-ons for the X MR, maybe one or two larger "I don't quiet need that but since I'm doing it" items and 'keep the car from killing itself' items like cooling solutions. I'm old enough to know I by no means know it all, and thought I'd seek out the brainpower from some other folks.

Anyway my budget is ~5k, I'd like to not have to go much beyond that, below it if I possibly could, but as long as I stay below 6k I'll be fine. So far I'm looking at picking up a FMIC through ETS; originally was going to go with AMS but from what I understand ETS is just as good but not as pricey. UICP again through ETS, was again going to go with AMS's but once again, less pricey for what is essentially a glorified tube. AMS's Widemouth DP, Test Pipe, and an ETS v2 Extreme Exhaust. Was also looking at MAP's exhaust manifold, Mishimoto's X-Rad, Cobb's 3-port, and a catch-can. I'm also planning on grabbing SSP's extended transmission pan and their SST front-mount oil cooler. Those two items themselves are quite pricey and is probably what is going to throw me closer to 6k I think. I've already got Cobb's AP, AMS's short ram-air intake, and a tune from AMS. From what I gather for what I'm doing and what I have planned, I don't need to look at injectors, upgraded fuel pumps, rails, things of that sort as where I live I don't think there's a single E85 pump in the entire state, I run 93 octane (somewhat higher if I buy some racing fuel from one of the local strips and do a 50/50 mix).

I've spent the better part of the past 2 days reading up as much as I could on forums and seller's websites, and I know some of these questions get asked about 50 times a month, but some things I just couldn't find answers to or at least find any satisfactory answers. Also just to give you the type of frame of mind I have, at this point I'd rather spend the money for a lightweight aftermarket driveshaft to reduce some unsprung weight and to get rid of the self-contained unit for one I can actually grease myself or replace a U-joint if it ever needed it. My reasoning for getting some of the items which are usually left over until you start tearing into the motor/turbo more heavy (like the manifold) is that this is basically my splurge, and as I said I probably won't see my car back in my garage for work like this for several more years, and my health isn't exactly spectacular. So if I put my Evo in the garage and tear it apart to get to certain parts, I'm going to try and do as much as I can while it's there, because it won't be coming apart again for a while. So I thought I'd go ahead and throw on a manifold, an upgraded rad, etc. Hopefully some people can understand the reasoning to my madness behind that.

After all was said and done I was planning on having AMS do the tune through my Cobb like they did originally by just sending them the data logs and they send me a new MAP. I know there are some free applications on-line to use or that some people are lucky enough to have several shops in their area they can just drop in and throw their car on a dyno and get a tune. Unfortunately I live in the boondocks in the South, and there's nothing here unless I drive (or have the car shipped) hundreds of miles. Where I live if you take anything aside from a truck to the garage or an old beater the mechanics and owners just look at you sideways and tell you sorry we can't help you.

Anyways I think I've rambled on long enough. Hopefully I've given out just about everything I need to get some opinions back on if I'm on the right track or if I should maybe rethink a few things. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

You don't need a downpipe unless you get a bigger turbo.

Past that honestly I would get in touch with a good tuner to work with them on a set of parts to reach your goal.

Also since you have an MR and money is tight, work with a tuner that SPECIALIZES in the MR and SST transmission or you're going to have a very very bad time. I would hit up Kozmic Motorsports for an e-tune and advice. I have an MR and live in the same city as them and I can't describe how well my car runs without issues. They are world renowned for their work on the MR / SST transmission.

Good luck, but please consider reaching out to a tuner. These transmissions run around $12k I think last I heard so you really need to be super careful when modifying.

 

Do what I did. I bought almost everything from this forum. Turbo, intercooler and piping, intake, coilovers, down pipe and catback spent maybe 3k. Just a thought.

 

i want to share my experience with my former MR so you are aware of what *could* happen. I had Road Race Engineering Dyno tune my former 2013 MR on a trip to CA. They also installed a 3 port and K&N intake with hot IC pipe. I believe we tuned it to just over 300 torque and HP at the wheels.

By the time I got back home (at 5000ft altitude) and put a few miles on it, it stopped running well. It would slip the clutch through second gear (RPM's would stay fairly constant as I accelerated). I reverted back to stock.

Fast forward a year and the SST starts slipping and refuses to go into certain gears during a ski trip. I was stranded and had it towed to a local dealer. By the time they looked at it 4 days later, they said it was running fine. Not wanting it to run out of warranty and then have the tranny fail, I traded it for a 2015 FE.

I've talked to a lot of people about the SST and have not found anyone with any luck with the SST. Some had invested over $10k into the SST alone before giving up for a GSR.

I think some of the FQ models in the U.K. came with an SST, so decent power is possible, but I was never able to figure out how.

Best of luck!

Is anyone making more than stock power on an SST? If so, how much power and how long have you been making that power?

 

You had a tuner work on your MR without knowledge of the SST. Kozmic tuned here, never a problem car runs very strong. All about who is doing the work, but if you find a good shop the MR can be a fast reliable car.

 

It's all in the Tune with the MRs. I had a buddy of mine run pretty much full bolt ons on 91 3 years straight with no trouble on the stock clutchs and doing a 12.6 quarter mile. We have my ladies MR with bolt ons on e85 making 326 uncorrected at 4500' elevation and no problems at all.

 

Yeah, it's definitely all in the tune with the MR. Even AMS (from personal experience) is sort of "meh" at tuning the MR's, but they do good work with the GSR. I talked to Kozmic but they don't do E-tunes, so I'll be looking into WTFTune as Kozmic pointed me in their direction for an E-Tune. I've stated this many times (mostly in YouTube comments when talking to idiots who probably don't even own an Evo) the MR can make some serious power, and I personally can't stand those people who think a car isn't a 'real car' unless it's a gated manual. I won't be giving up my extra gear, suspension, and quick shifts with little boost loss between them for a GSR. Not to mention I've had multiple hip/back surgeries and not having to constantly work a high performance 3 plate clutch is a bonus for me. If the time comes I want to start building the engine and getting a new turbo, I'll look at throwing a clutch pack on it from SSP or one of the other guys who specialize with the SST to save myself from leaving it in pieces on the road and me stranded.

As for the parts list, I'm guessing I'm right on track then. And as for the one recommendation of not needing a downpipe without an upgraded turbo, I've never once heard that, but even if it's true, I've got to get back there and tear all that crap up anyways, so a new DP/manifold/exhaust is all getting put on in one sweep and changing out all the oils and fluids. The only other part I've got on the list that probably don't *need*, but would help, is a new recirculating valve. I know the stocker can get leaky above 20-23 PSI. I've thought about doing the crush for mine, but I think I'd rather just do it right and buy a better one. I was thinking the Synapse Synchronic DV, as I've heard bad things about HKS's, with my second choice be the Tial QR.

I think I'm going to be good to go, minus the work of getting all this put on which I'm betting is going to be a joy.

 

I know that RRE knows Evo's, so I guess I just assumed they know MR's. Maybe that's not the case... I just wanted to pass along my mistakes to the OP. I also heard the rule of thumb for MR's was 325ft-lbs at the wheels was the highest amount for that transmission to be considered safe - is this still the case?

That's great to hear! I was really disappointed and nervous (over the $12k replacement cost) when my stock MR started acting up on a fairly easy drive. I didn't have the time nor the energy to figure all of it out then and it was my DD.


As for the original questions - I think your list looks really good. The only thing I would add would be a wideband O2 so that your tuner can see what your air fuel ratios are. If you add a downpipe, most have an option for a bung to plug your wideband into. If not, you will need one welded in. I don't think most will do an e-tune without being able to log this data.

You could also look at AMS's "STX400" package for a good idea of what they thought were the low hanging fruits to more power. It's in your price range but I believe most would recommend piecing it together separately.

Something else to think about: https://www.amsperformance.com/cart/...oost-Pill.html

 

Yeah some shops are great with EVO's, but more the GSR than MR. With a change in clutch packs you can go over 300tq, though you need to upgrade the clutch on a GSR for bigger power too so very similar.

Good deal on WTFTuned that is a VERY solid shop as well and he knows the MR you're in good hands.

 

Yeah, I have the boost pill on my list, probably just forgot to mention it. The AMS DP does have the optional bung for the wideband, I just haven't looked them up yet as I've been too busy trying to get the hardware right and at a price that's right.

I'm glad to hear some positive feedback on WTFTuned.

Monday is when I place my orders for everything so hopefully all goes well, and once I get everything in maybe I'll put together a build log with pictures.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

Talk to TJ with WTFTuned before you buy all those parts. I still don't think you need the downpipe unless you have a bigger turbo and I missed it. Good luck and keep us updated!

 

the ets and ams downpipe will net you gains. I personally think its worth it. I saw a increase in tq with my ams downpipe. im also a fan of keeping everything the same.


ETS turbo back/ AMS
3.5 IC with upgraded piping
tial qrj
asnu fuel pump
3 in intake
3 port ebc..
youll have a great reliable daily car with a solid increase of about 70-100 whp gain depending on the aggressiveness of that tune.


Company is someone you feel comfortable with. I use ams and cbrd for everything outside of the tial and grimmspeed.

 

Let me know when you're ready to order

 

5 grand I'd get an exhaust intake and then suspension work. A nice set of ohlins they are cheap right now at map and a tune. U will be close to 4k with all that. Then if u wanted u could get a uicp and licp I wouldnt bother with an intercooler or downpipe. I'd get a alignment and a go pro and have some fun on a track or just around town. Maybe even some better brake fluid too

Ps I'd sell the accessport and get a taxtric cable and talk to Chet rickerman about tuning

 

Talked to TJ @ WTF. Synapse Synchronic DV, AMS downpipe, ETS UICP, ETS FMIC, ETS v2 extreme exhaust, MAP test pipe, MAP exhaust manifold, ditched the Cobb and going with Tactrix/evoscan etc. AEM 30-4900 Wideband Failsafe, Dodson Heated Sump, Mishimoto X-core radiator, new rad hoses, AMS tranny cooler, new fluids for the SST/diff/AYC, and a lifetime steel drop-in filter for the SST. Mishimoto liquid chill for the new rad and combined dodson sump, oil catch can, cobb 3-port, and finally got myself a set of mud flaps and rain guards. Also picked up a go-pro and a mount to capture some of the fun that is upcoming. I was told boost pill won't be needed since I'll be using the 3-port

I think I'm pretty much set. A big thanks to ETS/MAP/AMS for all their help, and thanks for your all's input. Once all this stuff gets here I'll see about taking pictures and posting the progress and all the numbers once I get everything squared away with WTFTune and get the car running as it should.