Hey guys,

I bought a Perrin DP/HFC combo, and when I went to install it, it didn't fit. There was no bowl taper to fit the OEM donut gasket, and the flange was too thick to thread the spring bolts. I picked up an AMS DP locally and installed that piece instead.

My question is should I cut the DP part off and use it as a HFC? What flange should I use? How much should it cost to get in welded on?

I found this . . .

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=144

Pics btw,

OEM w/ gasket


Perrin w/ gasket


Showing differences in OEM v Perrin taper

 

I had to cut the springs on my HM DP/HFC because of the thickness of the flange. It works perfect now. I am not sure about the donut gasket problem... I would probably just sell it now that you have the AMS and just use the money to buy a HFC.

 

Unlike Perrin, I don't want to sell something that is going to give someone a problem. I could bring it to a machine shop and grind down the flange and further grind down the gasket to make it fit for someone (as I have the OEM O2 housing off the car), but I don't want to misrepresent a part.

 

Have you tried contacting Perrin? Plenty of people run their stuff w/o issue.

 

Yeah I did. I didn't purchase from them and I didn't save the receipt. Their air filter didn't fit either, and they were very nice about it, but they wouldn't help me on this without a receipt, even though they admit it was incorrect. This is despite the fact I did buy their turbo inlet and my Cobb AP directly from them.

A few local guys I've met warned me about their stuff not always fitting, like their intercoolers, but I have no 1st hand experience with that. It's a shame because they seem like great guys, and if I did buy direct, I probably wouldn't have a problem exchanging anything.

 

Their intercoolers fit great; I had one on my IX and helped a local install one on his X.

 

It looks like the Perrin DP is designed to bolt up to the Turbo Adapter (O2) without the doughnut. You would use a flat gasket and instead of the spring-loaded bolts, tighten it hard. But, unless there is a flex section lower down, engine movement would be carried into the exhaust.

 

You are absolutely correct in that the flange used is for that type of gasket. The only thing is, it would not bolt up correctly to the turbo outlet without the donut gasket. It's the same flange that's on the other side that bolts up to the exhaust. Even if I could shave down the donut gasket and flange enough to make it bolt up to the outlet, I wouldn't havemuch faith in it creating a proper, exhaust leak free seal.

I wonder if I cut that end off if I can unweld that flange and reweld it lower instead of buying another $25 vibrant flange. Either way, any idea of how much a shop should charge to weld on a new one?

 

Hey,

I had the exact same problem with mine so I just cut about 1/8"-1/4" off the back end of the doughnut gasket and that sorted it out. Since I was a little nervous about cutting it I bought a replacement just in case (they are about $15 from fred bean). Not there is a metal mesh that runs through the graphite so it can be a bit hard to cut, we put it in a table vice and used a reciprocating saw, I'm sure a hacksaw would work but I imagine it would take a minute.

Hope this help

 

It looked like eventually after more grinding I could get it to fit, but I don't think I would get a good seal as it didn't have any sort of taper to accept the gasket. I was worried about an exhaust leak, so I went with AMS instead.