Help! What is this??
Help! What is this??
I was trying to remove turbo but there were many thing that were in the way. So, I decided to put them aside and [picture 1] was one of them. I unbolted it and realized that something was coming out from there. It was a scarlet liquid! [Picture 2] I don't know what it is and am freaked out. Do you have any idea what it is and how to refill it? Please I need your help!


That's most likely Diamond ATF SP3 fluid...looks like you unbolted that from your transfer case. You're going to have to refill and bleed your S-AWC hydraulic system before driving the car.
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hello I hope I can be of some help, That is the clutch mechanism area of the transfer case on your evo.
Actually pretty easy to get to and make this mistake, NOt to bad though.
also I hope you have gotten it taken care of since it happened, but if not I hope I can shed some light on the fix.
MAke sure that there is 2 copper washer that on either side of the banjo bolt line end( round hole on the oil line.) one on the case and one on the head of the bolt
Re-install the banjo Bolt making sure not to cross thread it. that area is a little tricky to reach if my memory is correct. once finger tight, tighten only slightly, it takes a little skill to feel what is too much with the Transfer case in the car.
next go to the trunk(boot) and look on the right side of the cargo area and you will see a little door inside will be a reservoir filled with red fluid. that is the reservoir for the ACD. Sorry I cant remember what its designation is. just follow the the next step it will get you the right fluid, its important to get the right stuff, but not important to memorize all the part numbers for all the factory fluids
Go to the dealer and ask for a quart of fluid for the ACD, its the same for the 8-9 or X but special to Mitsubishi. actually the X might have a new fluid but I have used the 8-9 fluid, I cant remember exactly
This next part is the tuff part. Bleeding the ACD system of air that was introduced when the line was opened and the fluid leaked out, But very important, and can cause damage to the clutch and pump
you need to do one of three following things, I have use all three and they all work. but dont drive the car if at all possible untill this process is performed.
1) find someone with a MUT 3 AND that know how to use it and have them bleed the ACD clutch
2) find someone that has a break out box for the ACD and bleed the clutch.
3) I have used this process in a pinch(at a Rally on my own RA) but it is on you Im only trying to get you back on the road with little drama
ok fill the ACD Res in the trunk, hook a hand vacuum pump(the big 5QT ones) to the bleeder on the bottom side of the Transfer case on the bottom of the ACD clutch piston area. next apply very little vacuum one maybe 2 pumps. next crack the line slowly until fluid starts to move, nothing more. next another person might help here. as you are watching the bleeder have a friend watch the Res. and fill it back up to the full line as the fluid level drops to the low line. do not let it go below that. just to be safe thats all. once that happens a couple of times you should be good.
Again I am only trying to help It has been about a year since I was working on these cars and Im sure some out there will tear this reply apart, but I have used all three ways personally and they all work. But I recommend getting it to a shop that has a MUT 3 to do it properly.
I am not a "know it all" I invite anyone to add or take away anything I said or recommended. But I do have a significant amount of experience racing and building these cars.
Hope you get it fixed
hope this helps a little
Actually pretty easy to get to and make this mistake, NOt to bad though.
also I hope you have gotten it taken care of since it happened, but if not I hope I can shed some light on the fix.
MAke sure that there is 2 copper washer that on either side of the banjo bolt line end( round hole on the oil line.) one on the case and one on the head of the bolt
Re-install the banjo Bolt making sure not to cross thread it. that area is a little tricky to reach if my memory is correct. once finger tight, tighten only slightly, it takes a little skill to feel what is too much with the Transfer case in the car.
next go to the trunk(boot) and look on the right side of the cargo area and you will see a little door inside will be a reservoir filled with red fluid. that is the reservoir for the ACD. Sorry I cant remember what its designation is. just follow the the next step it will get you the right fluid, its important to get the right stuff, but not important to memorize all the part numbers for all the factory fluids

Go to the dealer and ask for a quart of fluid for the ACD, its the same for the 8-9 or X but special to Mitsubishi. actually the X might have a new fluid but I have used the 8-9 fluid, I cant remember exactly
This next part is the tuff part. Bleeding the ACD system of air that was introduced when the line was opened and the fluid leaked out, But very important, and can cause damage to the clutch and pump
you need to do one of three following things, I have use all three and they all work. but dont drive the car if at all possible untill this process is performed.
1) find someone with a MUT 3 AND that know how to use it and have them bleed the ACD clutch
2) find someone that has a break out box for the ACD and bleed the clutch.
3) I have used this process in a pinch(at a Rally on my own RA) but it is on you Im only trying to get you back on the road with little drama
ok fill the ACD Res in the trunk, hook a hand vacuum pump(the big 5QT ones) to the bleeder on the bottom side of the Transfer case on the bottom of the ACD clutch piston area. next apply very little vacuum one maybe 2 pumps. next crack the line slowly until fluid starts to move, nothing more. next another person might help here. as you are watching the bleeder have a friend watch the Res. and fill it back up to the full line as the fluid level drops to the low line. do not let it go below that. just to be safe thats all. once that happens a couple of times you should be good.
Again I am only trying to help It has been about a year since I was working on these cars and Im sure some out there will tear this reply apart, but I have used all three ways personally and they all work. But I recommend getting it to a shop that has a MUT 3 to do it properly.
I am not a "know it all" I invite anyone to add or take away anything I said or recommended. But I do have a significant amount of experience racing and building these cars.
Hope you get it fixed
hope this helps a little
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