Help with Brakes!
Help with Brakes!
Its time for me to service the brakes as Southcoast Mitsu informed however the cost didn't appeal to me that much as the OEM Brembo will cost 1000+ and aftermarket will cost 700+. Those figures are quite some $. So I will go the other way by getting my own brake pads and will take it to my mechanic that specializes on Evo's. What do you guys recommend as far as "brake pads" I mainly just daily my ride some canyon runs but nothing like the track. Thanks for you guy's input. Also if you guys have any credible shops here in SoCal that can be trusted. Thanks all
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-thoughts.html
Cobb Tuning - SoCal is where I would go in your area, but brakes on the X are very simple to do with basic handtools.
Reuse your stock rotors, but be sure to flush/bleed your fluid.
Cobb Tuning - SoCal is where I would go in your area, but brakes on the X are very simple to do with basic handtools.
Reuse your stock rotors, but be sure to flush/bleed your fluid.
Last edited by Kracka; Mar 19, 2012 at 12:04 PM.
While I agree that there are many situations under which a "pad slap" (i.e., replacing the pads and doing nothing to the rotors) is a fine thing to do, I'd like to make sure that this is one of those situations.
Is there a noticeable lip at the outer edge of the rotors?
Is the face of the rotors even without, for example, obvious outlines of the current pads from when you parked the car with hot rotors and walked away?
Is there any reason to believe that the current bedding isn't even, such as a slight vibration during certain levels of braking?
If you have no sign of any problems, then go ahead with a pad slap and save a pile of money; our brakes are easy to work on. But if you have any issues, please take care of them first. Often this doesn't require that you pull the rotors and have them turned (or replaced). Often all you need to do is clean up the outer edge and then spend a few minutes with a Scotch-Brite pad getting the rotor faces ready for the new pads to be bedded.
Is there a noticeable lip at the outer edge of the rotors?
Is the face of the rotors even without, for example, obvious outlines of the current pads from when you parked the car with hot rotors and walked away?
Is there any reason to believe that the current bedding isn't even, such as a slight vibration during certain levels of braking?
If you have no sign of any problems, then go ahead with a pad slap and save a pile of money; our brakes are easy to work on. But if you have any issues, please take care of them first. Often this doesn't require that you pull the rotors and have them turned (or replaced). Often all you need to do is clean up the outer edge and then spend a few minutes with a Scotch-Brite pad getting the rotor faces ready for the new pads to be bedded.
My OEM pads are close to dead at 30k. I've always run Ferodo DS2500 on my Evos with great results. That's the way I'm going for sure. I'm gonna do a fluid replacement, not sure which yet, though.
Check out ATE Super Blue or Type 200 (same fluid, different colors, makes flushing completely easier); it comes in 1L cans.
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no, you don't need to flush brake fluid.
i don't care what rationale "joe forum" has for flushing fluid after changing pads.
if you have close to 60k miles or even half of that, it probably wouldn't hurt to get new fluid in there. if you're just street driving, just buy whatever you find at a local auto parts store. you don't need these high boiling point fluids for the street. save your money.
i don't care what rationale "joe forum" has for flushing fluid after changing pads.
if you have close to 60k miles or even half of that, it probably wouldn't hurt to get new fluid in there. if you're just street driving, just buy whatever you find at a local auto parts store. you don't need these high boiling point fluids for the street. save your money.







