Myth Buster.
Myth Buster.
This thread is dedicated to all the myths.
What I noticed is that a lot of people are confused, so if you know a myth and corresponding truth, post it here and a website where you can read more about the topic.
Here's my share:
Oil
"Synthetic is better"
Whether it's synthetic or not, does not matters (in terms of performance). It's the oil viscosity. Lighter oils perform better. A note, you pay double for the oil, even though you don't get double the milage on the oil.
Website: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm
Website: http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrica..._viscosity.htm
Octane
"Premium is better"
Whether it's premium or not, it does not matter (in terms of performance). What matters is if your meeting your knock rating in your econobox. When you start boosting, then higher octane matters because higher octane fuels are more resistant to knock (So you can boost more, get more compression in your fuel, and more power).
Website: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question90.htm
Wax vs Polish
"They're the same... But Polish is better"
Polish removes a thin layer from the clear coat. Your car shines better because the dirty, environmentally exposed, clear coat is gone. Which leaves you with a brand new clear coat underneath. So no swirls, or fine scratches. But in turn, the clear coat protection, is reduced (slightly), for your car.
Waxing is the opposite, it layers a thin coat on. Being that they can't sell clear coat in a bottle, they sell you wax... Which is a temporary substitute for making your car shiney. But you get added protection, instead of reduced protection.
Tyre Pressure
"If it's not flat, there's no problem"
Increase pressure: Your gas milage and acceleration is improved.
Decrease pressure: Your traction and ride comfort is improved. However, decreasing tyre pressure reasonably below the tyre rating, will cut your resistance to hydroplane.
Website: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=1
Website: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...ressure_guide/
Tyre Wear Rating
"Higher lasts longer, therefore, is better"
Tyre wear ratings give an idea on the grippy'ness... But in reality, they just mean how soft the rubber is. Too high of a rating (ie >500), and your tyre will fall apart under stress... Pieces of rubber will literately fly off. Too low of a rating (ie <100) and your tyre will be worn out before you left your driveway...
Website: http://www.accctiresonline.com/Tires.htm
Website: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/.../brochure.html
Window Tinting
"The heat is absorbed by the tint, rather than your car, therefore super black tint is better"
So here we come to the test with boxes, fiberglass, and cheap tinted plastic... And what do we find in grade 4 science class? Ice cubes melt faster in black tinted boxes than clear ones.... Your car will be hotter (if dark-colour tinted).
UV radiation is absobed and reflected off of clear windows. But even more in tinted windows, though the amount of UV absorbed is not correlated with the temperature of the tint. So your cheap painted things and electronics won't be discoloured under direct sunlight. But then agian, heat also kills cheap painted things and electronics... So they're be discoloured that way.
Thus the benefits of tinting are more security rather than temperature related.
Website: http://www.reviewjournal.com/lvrj_ho.../21568428.html
Light Flywheels
"If the flywheel is too light, you can't drive the car"
Not true. Lighter is always better, but the lighter you go the higher you have to rev to get the same launch as before.
However, Jun shaved light, is bad news. When you slip your clutch, there's a massive amount of heat that generates between the flywheel and the clutch plate.... The more you slip, the hotter it gets... The hotter it gets, the worse your flywheel is going to be. Eventually your flywheel will start cracking and fall apart before your clutch goes. When you shave your flywheel, your flywheel's life shorterns. (In the end. Slipping is worse than dropping, for your flywheel)
Also, some mechs, can't shave flywheels to meet your clutch standards... Clutches has different "steps".
Replacing with Aluminum flywheels can deal with heat pretty well and save you alot of rotational weight at the same time.
Reducing rotational weight / unsprung mass... In the end... Gives you better fuel economy, while making your car faster on the street.
Excellent Website: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
Website: http://www.se-r.net/engine/light_flywheels.html
Rediculous Jap Flywheels: http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/index.html?en
What I noticed is that a lot of people are confused, so if you know a myth and corresponding truth, post it here and a website where you can read more about the topic.
Here's my share:
Oil
"Synthetic is better"
Whether it's synthetic or not, does not matters (in terms of performance). It's the oil viscosity. Lighter oils perform better. A note, you pay double for the oil, even though you don't get double the milage on the oil.
Website: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm
Website: http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrica..._viscosity.htm
Octane
"Premium is better"
Whether it's premium or not, it does not matter (in terms of performance). What matters is if your meeting your knock rating in your econobox. When you start boosting, then higher octane matters because higher octane fuels are more resistant to knock (So you can boost more, get more compression in your fuel, and more power).
Website: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question90.htm
Wax vs Polish
"They're the same... But Polish is better"
Polish removes a thin layer from the clear coat. Your car shines better because the dirty, environmentally exposed, clear coat is gone. Which leaves you with a brand new clear coat underneath. So no swirls, or fine scratches. But in turn, the clear coat protection, is reduced (slightly), for your car.
Waxing is the opposite, it layers a thin coat on. Being that they can't sell clear coat in a bottle, they sell you wax... Which is a temporary substitute for making your car shiney. But you get added protection, instead of reduced protection.
Tyre Pressure
"If it's not flat, there's no problem"
Increase pressure: Your gas milage and acceleration is improved.
Decrease pressure: Your traction and ride comfort is improved. However, decreasing tyre pressure reasonably below the tyre rating, will cut your resistance to hydroplane.
Website: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=1
Website: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...ressure_guide/
Tyre Wear Rating
"Higher lasts longer, therefore, is better"
Tyre wear ratings give an idea on the grippy'ness... But in reality, they just mean how soft the rubber is. Too high of a rating (ie >500), and your tyre will fall apart under stress... Pieces of rubber will literately fly off. Too low of a rating (ie <100) and your tyre will be worn out before you left your driveway...
Website: http://www.accctiresonline.com/Tires.htm
Website: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/.../brochure.html
Window Tinting
"The heat is absorbed by the tint, rather than your car, therefore super black tint is better"
So here we come to the test with boxes, fiberglass, and cheap tinted plastic... And what do we find in grade 4 science class? Ice cubes melt faster in black tinted boxes than clear ones.... Your car will be hotter (if dark-colour tinted).
UV radiation is absobed and reflected off of clear windows. But even more in tinted windows, though the amount of UV absorbed is not correlated with the temperature of the tint. So your cheap painted things and electronics won't be discoloured under direct sunlight. But then agian, heat also kills cheap painted things and electronics... So they're be discoloured that way.
Thus the benefits of tinting are more security rather than temperature related.
Website: http://www.reviewjournal.com/lvrj_ho.../21568428.html
Light Flywheels
"If the flywheel is too light, you can't drive the car"
Not true. Lighter is always better, but the lighter you go the higher you have to rev to get the same launch as before.
However, Jun shaved light, is bad news. When you slip your clutch, there's a massive amount of heat that generates between the flywheel and the clutch plate.... The more you slip, the hotter it gets... The hotter it gets, the worse your flywheel is going to be. Eventually your flywheel will start cracking and fall apart before your clutch goes. When you shave your flywheel, your flywheel's life shorterns. (In the end. Slipping is worse than dropping, for your flywheel)
Also, some mechs, can't shave flywheels to meet your clutch standards... Clutches has different "steps".
Replacing with Aluminum flywheels can deal with heat pretty well and save you alot of rotational weight at the same time.
Reducing rotational weight / unsprung mass... In the end... Gives you better fuel economy, while making your car faster on the street.
Excellent Website: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
Website: http://www.se-r.net/engine/light_flywheels.html
Rediculous Jap Flywheels: http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/index.html?en
Last edited by Dem_z; Jun 16, 2006 at 08:55 AM. Reason: Add Flywheel info, Highlighted the word "Boosting" under octane
Hah I meant to put it into the lancer general / noob forum. Your right about octane in your evo because, your boosting. But in econobox lancers, it means dick.
Can someone move this to the reg. lancer forum please?
Can someone move this to the reg. lancer forum please?
