Im a newb and i need some help. I'm going to a dealership (carsmith in fremont CA) this friday to check out an 05' evo VIII with 22,4xx miles on it. Please give me some advice on what to look for mechanically. Should I be looking at the clutch? Transmission? I know little bout cars ... so make it as easy for me as possible. Ie: What should I feel if the clutch is wearing?? I want to make sure I'm not going to buy a car that i need to do major work on within a few hundred miles.
Thanks for your help all!

 

For starters, how much are they asking for the car? Model?

A lot of that stuff you can't check just with a visual inspection. You would need a mechanic (or yourself if you are knowledgeable) to do that. You can, however, check to see if it is still under warranty, which I think it should be based on the year and mileage.

This may seem stupid, but whenever I look at a car I keep it running during the entire look over and also after the test drive. This way you can at least listen for strange noises or smells, and also check for overheating issues.

 

What is your budget? If I were you, I would give socal mitsu a call. They're having a sale right now they're letting Evo go for pretty cheap. The last time I saw it,
MR SE are going for $32,999
MR $31,999
IX SSL for $30,999
SE $29,599
IX $27,999
RS $25,999

Call this number and ask for Mike 714-545-1700.

 

I wouldnt be able to tell you things specifically for the Evo, but I can tell you my experience from buying cars in general. Dont get caught up in the moment of driving the car for joy, make sure you pay attention and look for things like clutch slip, and kinding of roughness when shifting, obviously like said above, abnormal noises and the smoothness of acceleration when under boost. I bought my Evo used and actually visited twice and drove it two seperate times (2 hour drive one way), just to make sure everything checked out. I always spend more time with turbocharged cars because it is easier to rag them and create premature engine wear. (More common in older cars, ie. DSMs, but can Im sure occur in Evo's as well.

Like I said, Im no expert, but those are some of the things that I look for when buying a car. Even though I paid special attention to my clutch, it still went out approximately 4-6 months after purchasing mine. Good luck though! Hope its a great car.

 

I would never buy these types of cars used but if you are dead set on doing that just have a experienced mechanic inspect it from top to bottom.

 

Compression check, abnormal tire wear, set the e-brake and let the clutch out slowly to see if it grabs properly, check under the hood for tooling marks on bolts/clamps that apply to engine or suspention components, Carfax, look for non-factory hardware ie. bolts, nuts, screws, etc. Those are a few things to keep in mind.

 

Thank you all for your reply's. They are selling it for 24,995. I was thinking of putting 10k down. Do you think I could push the price down?

If they say they put the car through a 112 point inspection... should I trust this?? DO they take into account the before mentioned parts and wear that might be typical on an evo?

 

I bought my 2003 at the beginning of 2006 with only 23k miles on it, in immaculate mechanical and visual condition, I would say you have to be very picky. Mine was bone stock as well, which made it an easier decision for me.

 

NEVER----NEVER---NEVER buy a USED EVO.....Do Yourself a Favor SEARCH these forums for "Bought Used Evo Now Problems".
You are only asking for trouble !

 

+1

you can get an IX for 27,999 and put that 10K down...for only 3K more, you can have a brand new...ehhh..."better" Evo

 

I think you should read my post again. Because for $24,995 for an 05, you can get brand new IX for $28. Also the interest rate on used car is higher then new cars.

Plus you have to look at warranties and stuff like that. I know that Mitsu is bad with their warranty but it also depends on dealers.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=251937

EVOLUTION IX RS
$25,999 INCLUDING DESTINATION CHARGE

 

I've often been curious about how much a "destination charge" ends up being... heh. Anyone know? Im sure it depends on the location, say I purchsed it in CA and it was heading to TN? (Not to steal the thread, but could be important to know for perspective buyers like myself on the East coast)

 

All of the stuff mentioned above plus look for signs of collision damage including newer looking paint, non matching paint texture, broken putty welds (check trunk area under map and radiator support areas especially. Any signs of abuse or prior work done. New parts (under pinning, inner fender liners etc).

 

Geez... I thanks to everyone again for the post. I dont think I know how to check some of these parts listed (maybe i should just stick to my truck haha) . Maybe I will take it to a shop to have it checked out just to be sure. It seems worth the extra $