So I have an MR and I'm getting som new gauges and have a few questions. First of all since the MR comes with the guage cluster can I just switch the radio and the cluster, or do I need the special brackets that come with the radio relocation kit.

Secondly, I'm deciding between Defi and Prosport. I'm moving the boost gauge onto the steering column and then doin 3 in dash gauges. Oil Press., EGT, and AFR. I like that Prosport has an AFR gauge, Defi does not. But prosports guage isnt wideband.


What exactly is wideband compatible?? Is a guage that isnt wideband compatible worth it?? Does anyone have any other suggestions for AFR guages. The only other I saw and like was the Apexi AFR??

On the MR, the gauges and radio are a direct swap. No additional hardware needed.
As far as wideband goes, I have the AEM and it's great.

you can just switch them no problems at all (I did it)

I don't think the Prosport AFR gauge is a wideband and a narrowband AFR is useless

if you want a real wideband the cheapest simplest option is a AEM UEGO gauge or even an Innovative XD-16 gauge is a good solution

hope this helps

it definately does but can someone explain what wideband means?? Is it a different way the AFR is measured??


thanks for the help so far though guys

wideband reads the AFR off of a 0-5v o2 sensor. A narrowband (ECU uses this) only reads off of a 0-2v o2 sensor.

if you had a narrowband gauge and a wideband gauge the wideband would be more accurate and wouldn't jump around so much. 0-5v offers more 'steps' than 0-2v (not sure what word i'm looking for here )

still a little confused..... just found something on wikipedia about wideband..... maybe that'll clear things up for me

All theoretical numbers.

k, let's say your ecu reads afr in steps of 0.1v.

so , narrowband

0v = 10:1, 2v = 20:1. -->20 reading increments

with 0.1v, the smallest steps are 0.5:1, right? so 1v = 15:1, 1.1v = 15.5:1, etc

but with a wideband, 0v - 5v, there are 50 steps, so with a 10:1 --> 20:1 range,
accuracy will be 0.2:1, so the gauge will be more accurate.

keep in mind these numbers are all theoretical, i'm not sure of the actual readings

that makes ALOT more sense. Im a math teacehr so once i get numbers, i understand :-D thanks alot...

Any other recommendations for gauges everyone?

np, basically a narrowband is worthless. it really depends if you want gauges or not. I have defi oil press, oil temp, fuel press, and boost (boost is on the column). i have the defi bf's so they have the control unit, it's kind of nice because you can set warning levels, record, and playback. however, if i was going to do it over again i would have gotten a Zeitronix with boost and egt, it would be cheaper and most tuners prefer it. however, if you want gauges i think the Defi BF's are awesome.

Just saw this AEM wideband guage for AFR...its ony $279.00...not bad...what do you think?

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/aemgauge.htm

Although I don't understand when it says this on the description...

"This unit has a very low current draw and features both 0.5v calibrated output and 0.1v calibrated output to mimic the factory narrow band sensor, eliminating the chances of a factory computer issuing a trouble code."

I thought you just bored out a bung for the wideband O2 sensor that come with the unit, and it is independent from the O2 sensors that the ECU uses...it almost seems like it lists tha ability to act as a narrowband and a wideband at the same time to be integrated as the only one O2 sensor that both the guage and the ECU uses? - anyone chime in...?

Innovate motorsports LC-1

Yes sir +2

Yes, you are correct, that is what it is saying. It can be both your wideband and your narrowband. However most people install their wideband behind (test pipe) or near the rear of their down-pipe and if your removing the stock cat and going with a test pipe then you'll want to employ a mechanical o2 fix to keep from getting CEL's. You dont want to use a mechanical fix with your wideband.

Well, to sum it up, it's just easier to install another bung and leave the stock o2 sensors alone IMHO. Plus the vehicle can be returned to stock condition easier and you dont have to splice any factory wiring or create any issues. I guess you could replace your front o2 sensor with the wideband sensor but I would try to find someone else who has done that because that's the one that your car uses for closed loop fueling (cruising) and you dont want to mess that one up. Also I think most mfr's recommend the wideband o2 sensor be further from the turbo that the o2 housing.