evo as a daily driver and track car?
evo as a daily driver and track car?
I am looking for a dual purpose car, one that can be driven everyday and then taken to the track probably about 5/6 times a year. I would probably be doing de events at local tracks, no quarter miles. I would much rather have an evo IX then an XIII so my question is, should I get the MR or a 5-speed (im probably not going to add too much more power to the car, if that helps)? Also, what are some mods that you would suggest to enhance the performance on the track while making the car driveable on the streets with descent gas mileage and little noise increase from stock?
If the track has a lot of 110mph+ straights, then go with 6spd, if not go with 5 spd, first four gears are almost identical. If you're **** about gas mileage and do a lot of highway trips, go with the 6 spd.
For your requirements, do the following:
- ECU tuning, maximize the performance for every drop of gas used with what you have.
- Weight reduction, 'daily drivability' might go down the heavier reduction you do, but you gain performance in every aspect, accelaration, cornering, braking, but of course, if you get really serious into it, you need to start looking at balance and center of gravity as well (probably the most ideal would be to have it as low as possible, as close to middle but little biased to the rear, as far out from the center as possible)
- Tires, one of the best value 'mod' you can get for road racing, similar to weight reduction, it'll improve acceleration, braking and handling.
- Improving flow, get exhaust and intake, since you want to keep your car quiet, get one with 2 or more muffler attached to it, if you don't care much about the environment and the law enforcement isn't too strict around where you live, having your exhaust cat-free would be good idea as well. For intake, keep it stock box with better flowing filter would be good idea, or you get a lot of sucking and sneezing sound.
Cooling and safety equipment is important as well but there are just too many ways for it so you should do research and get a set up you want. It could be anything from just having harness installed (assuming you have the stock folding recaro's with holes for harness) and radiator upgrade, to having your interior nomex and kevlar'd, full racing suit, helmet, roll cage, fancy ducts for cooling all kinds of parts and adding dry sump oil system to your engine.
For your requirements, do the following:
- ECU tuning, maximize the performance for every drop of gas used with what you have.
- Weight reduction, 'daily drivability' might go down the heavier reduction you do, but you gain performance in every aspect, accelaration, cornering, braking, but of course, if you get really serious into it, you need to start looking at balance and center of gravity as well (probably the most ideal would be to have it as low as possible, as close to middle but little biased to the rear, as far out from the center as possible)
- Tires, one of the best value 'mod' you can get for road racing, similar to weight reduction, it'll improve acceleration, braking and handling.
- Improving flow, get exhaust and intake, since you want to keep your car quiet, get one with 2 or more muffler attached to it, if you don't care much about the environment and the law enforcement isn't too strict around where you live, having your exhaust cat-free would be good idea as well. For intake, keep it stock box with better flowing filter would be good idea, or you get a lot of sucking and sneezing sound.
Cooling and safety equipment is important as well but there are just too many ways for it so you should do research and get a set up you want. It could be anything from just having harness installed (assuming you have the stock folding recaro's with holes for harness) and radiator upgrade, to having your interior nomex and kevlar'd, full racing suit, helmet, roll cage, fancy ducts for cooling all kinds of parts and adding dry sump oil system to your engine.
The 5-speed is more stout. The 6-speed has better gearing for a road course. The 4th gear and 5th gear in the 6-speed are smaller than they are in the 5-speed, so those two gears are a little weaker. The 4th gear in the MR is also prone to blow out while racing on a road course. Several guys have done it. So, beware of that. Check out this thread...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=track+******
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=track+******
SOme interesting information on here. I am also considering running to a track here and there, however I have that compettive spirit and easily get sucked in and spend tons to have fun... bad habits..
I would say in addition to the very well put posts up there, that you would want to invest in a nice set of coil-overs as well so you can adjust depending on your needs/wants. And a spare set of rims for the track with nice tires, then road tires for everyday driving.. (at least thatt is what I plan on, since the Sticky tires DON'T LAST)
I would say in addition to the very well put posts up there, that you would want to invest in a nice set of coil-overs as well so you can adjust depending on your needs/wants. And a spare set of rims for the track with nice tires, then road tires for everyday driving.. (at least thatt is what I plan on, since the Sticky tires DON'T LAST)
If the track has a lot of 110mph+ straights, then go with 6spd, if not go with 5 spd, first four gears are almost identical. If you're **** about gas mileage and do a lot of highway trips, go with the 6 spd.
For your requirements, do the following:
- ECU tuning, maximize the performance for every drop of gas used with what you have.
- Weight reduction, 'daily drivability' might go down the heavier reduction you do, but you gain performance in every aspect, accelaration, cornering, braking, but of course, if you get really serious into it, you need to start looking at balance and center of gravity as well (probably the most ideal would be to have it as low as possible, as close to middle but little biased to the rear, as far out from the center as possible)
- Tires, one of the best value 'mod' you can get for road racing, similar to weight reduction, it'll improve acceleration, braking and handling.
- Improving flow, get exhaust and intake, since you want to keep your car quiet, get one with 2 or more muffler attached to it, if you don't care much about the environment and the law enforcement isn't too strict around where you live, having your exhaust cat-free would be good idea as well. For intake, keep it stock box with better flowing filter would be good idea, or you get a lot of sucking and sneezing sound.
Cooling and safety equipment is important as well but there are just too many ways for it so you should do research and get a set up you want. It could be anything from just having harness installed (assuming you have the stock folding recaro's with holes for harness) and radiator upgrade, to having your interior nomex and kevlar'd, full racing suit, helmet, roll cage, fancy ducts for cooling all kinds of parts and adding dry sump oil system to your engine.
For your requirements, do the following:
- ECU tuning, maximize the performance for every drop of gas used with what you have.
- Weight reduction, 'daily drivability' might go down the heavier reduction you do, but you gain performance in every aspect, accelaration, cornering, braking, but of course, if you get really serious into it, you need to start looking at balance and center of gravity as well (probably the most ideal would be to have it as low as possible, as close to middle but little biased to the rear, as far out from the center as possible)
- Tires, one of the best value 'mod' you can get for road racing, similar to weight reduction, it'll improve acceleration, braking and handling.
- Improving flow, get exhaust and intake, since you want to keep your car quiet, get one with 2 or more muffler attached to it, if you don't care much about the environment and the law enforcement isn't too strict around where you live, having your exhaust cat-free would be good idea as well. For intake, keep it stock box with better flowing filter would be good idea, or you get a lot of sucking and sneezing sound.
Cooling and safety equipment is important as well but there are just too many ways for it so you should do research and get a set up you want. It could be anything from just having harness installed (assuming you have the stock folding recaro's with holes for harness) and radiator upgrade, to having your interior nomex and kevlar'd, full racing suit, helmet, roll cage, fancy ducts for cooling all kinds of parts and adding dry sump oil system to your engine.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Not really a good write up 4Trouble.
First off - the 6sp does not get better MPG:
http://www.*******.com/tech/tech11.htm
Secondly, you do not want the car "as low as possible" thats just asking to take the car out of the susp. travel/range.
And WHAT for the last paragraph. Thats way out of range for someone who wants to do 5-6 HPDE days. I wouldnt expect that until a deticated track car.
Get the Evo 13
8 is VIII in Roman terms.
The MR as a "nicer" stock susp. If you are not really into tracking and are just out there for fun Id say get the MR and put some Swift springs on her and call it a day susp. wise. But it all depends on what you want to get out of the car. Of course a proper coil-over set will change how the car goes around a track. Just be aware that the 4th gear could come apart on you.
MOST commonly asked question here. If we are talking about a IX - Turboback Exhaust (TBE), Manual Boost Controller (MBC), ECU tuning. Cone filter if you want to hear the tubro/diverter valve. That will net you ~300-330whp (mid 12s car or better).
Things you will want before a track day:
SS brake lines, DOT4 fluids, a decent track brake pad (HP+, DS2500s, etc.), and once the OE tires are shot either 2 sets of tires (one for tracking, one for street) or a good inbetween tire. Either way the summer/track tire will not be any use in the winter. All-seasons just dont make a great track tire. Lots of us on here us the NT01s or Falken 615s. My 615s did double duty last summer as my warm weather tire and track tire - about 20k miles and lots of track days and they still have a good season left on them.
BUT do not take my word outright. I highly recommend reading the Motor Sports section on here and start getting involved with some local Evo owners that also are into road racing. They will have connections on track days, knowledge about the tracks, and some helpful hints on modding the car.
PS - even will all the mods my car is still a DD (80k+ on the clock and counting).
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSC01028.jpg
First off - the 6sp does not get better MPG:
http://www.*******.com/tech/tech11.htm
Secondly, you do not want the car "as low as possible" thats just asking to take the car out of the susp. travel/range.
And WHAT for the last paragraph. Thats way out of range for someone who wants to do 5-6 HPDE days. I wouldnt expect that until a deticated track car.
I am looking for a dual purpose car, one that can be driven everyday and then taken to the track probably about 5/6 times a year. I would probably be doing de events at local tracks, no quarter miles. I would much rather have an evo IX then an XIII so my question is, should I get the MR or a 5-speed (im probably not going to add too much more power to the car, if that helps)? Also, what are some mods that you would suggest to enhance the performance on the track while making the car driveable on the streets with descent gas mileage and little noise increase from stock?
8 is VIII in Roman terms.The MR as a "nicer" stock susp. If you are not really into tracking and are just out there for fun Id say get the MR and put some Swift springs on her and call it a day susp. wise. But it all depends on what you want to get out of the car. Of course a proper coil-over set will change how the car goes around a track. Just be aware that the 4th gear could come apart on you.
MOST commonly asked question here. If we are talking about a IX - Turboback Exhaust (TBE), Manual Boost Controller (MBC), ECU tuning. Cone filter if you want to hear the tubro/diverter valve. That will net you ~300-330whp (mid 12s car or better).
Things you will want before a track day:
SS brake lines, DOT4 fluids, a decent track brake pad (HP+, DS2500s, etc.), and once the OE tires are shot either 2 sets of tires (one for tracking, one for street) or a good inbetween tire. Either way the summer/track tire will not be any use in the winter. All-seasons just dont make a great track tire. Lots of us on here us the NT01s or Falken 615s. My 615s did double duty last summer as my warm weather tire and track tire - about 20k miles and lots of track days and they still have a good season left on them.
BUT do not take my word outright. I highly recommend reading the Motor Sports section on here and start getting involved with some local Evo owners that also are into road racing. They will have connections on track days, knowledge about the tracks, and some helpful hints on modding the car.
PS - even will all the mods my car is still a DD (80k+ on the clock and counting).
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k6...o/DSC01028.jpg
Last edited by Smike; Dec 12, 2007 at 08:22 AM.
- I understand that MR can possibly have worse fuel efficiency compared to RS due to extra weight, but compared to GSR or GSR w/ SSL, I don't see how cruising at taller gear at same speed would result in less gas mileage
- You haven't read my sentence carefully, lowest center of gravity as possible, but that does not necessarily mean dropping your car all the way down. I was talking in terms of weight reduction. Suspension setting is not somewhere you want to net lower center of gravity from and the setting will depend on where you are running, the driver and the rest of the car's setting.
- You haven't read my last paragraph carefully as well, I said it could range anything from minor to major and it is entirely up to OP on how he want his car done interms of cooling and safety.
You did raise a good point though, I completely forgot about brakes and brake pads, fluid, brake lines and clutch line, perhaps these should be the first to change for track days for EVO, as the rest of the car come well prepared for the track already.
- You haven't read my sentence carefully, lowest center of gravity as possible, but that does not necessarily mean dropping your car all the way down. I was talking in terms of weight reduction. Suspension setting is not somewhere you want to net lower center of gravity from and the setting will depend on where you are running, the driver and the rest of the car's setting.
- You haven't read my last paragraph carefully as well, I said it could range anything from minor to major and it is entirely up to OP on how he want his car done interms of cooling and safety.
You did raise a good point though, I completely forgot about brakes and brake pads, fluid, brake lines and clutch line, perhaps these should be the first to change for track days for EVO, as the rest of the car come well prepared for the track already.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
The way your sentences sit now are ambiguous. A "green" owner could take what you said at face value. Like I said - dont trust me either. I alreadys recommend reading and doing what you think is best.
The EPA cuts the same numbers in 06 for MPH 1 less for the MR over GSR/RS. The 6th gear is not an overdrive and the MR has a different final gear. And harnesses without a cage is frankly dangerous.
The EPA cuts the same numbers in 06 for MPH 1 less for the MR over GSR/RS. The 6th gear is not an overdrive and the MR has a different final gear. And harnesses without a cage is frankly dangerous.
If your planning on racing your Evo I recommend finding a IX RS. You wont be able to get a new one but it's the track car of choice. You can retrofit keyless entry / alarm but you'll probably have to live with the rollups but they probably save weight.
Have a hefty tire fund... Someone mentioned brakes but it will be tires and fluid changes that will really eat your lunch. The Evo is a high cost daily driver. Poor gas miliage, Annual tire / brake pad replacements, frequent drivetrain fluid changes, synthetic oil changes and frequent clutch replacements are just the beginning. If you start breaking parts it will get very expensive.
Now doesnt a Miata track car start to sound better. JK.. lol
Have a hefty tire fund... Someone mentioned brakes but it will be tires and fluid changes that will really eat your lunch. The Evo is a high cost daily driver. Poor gas miliage, Annual tire / brake pad replacements, frequent drivetrain fluid changes, synthetic oil changes and frequent clutch replacements are just the beginning. If you start breaking parts it will get very expensive.
Now doesnt a Miata track car start to sound better. JK.. lol
I have been tracking my car at the local Road Course and found out quickly that the brake fluid needs to be upgraded do to over heating. I recently ordered the AMS brake ducting to help with the cooling. I also installed the Swift springs designed for the MR and went with an aggressive alignment (-2.1/1.2) the car is really neutral and not pushing like it was stock.
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