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how to break-in an EVO

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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 06:11 PM
  #16  
Wallesasuaz's Avatar
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lmao i just realized he drives an X
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:09 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for all the posts. Wow, what a lot of different suggestions! Everything from running it easy for the first 1000 miles to redlining it out of the lot. I will probably keep it beow 4k rpm for the first 600 miles (just to seat the clutch and brakes) change the oil and then have fun like the car is supposed to give. I read a lot about synthetic oil verses non-synthetic oil and find that most recommend n-s oil for the first 600 miles and than change to sysnthetic oil. The car is shipped sith Mobil 1 synthetic oil...any comments?
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by btownsoccer22
idk for the evo X but my Evo IX isn't heavily modded and 3000rpm in fifth gear for me is like 80ish
more like 70ish.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:22 PM
  #19  
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3krpm is too low for break in, don't forget you need to work your turbo as well, just don't mash the pedal to the floor. There should be a guide somewhere on this forum about breaking in your brake system as well. Try to utilize all of your gears.

Some people say break-in is absolutely necessary and some say it isn't, as the car comes already broken in from the factory. I guess it is one of those 'better be safe than sorry' cases and the decision to follow is totally up to you. Do remember this though, if the service center finds out that you have been beating on the car during the Mitsu's recommended break-in period in the manual (600miles), which can be shown in the ECU data (such as throttle %, rpm etc), they might void your warranty, partially or fully. For shop like Buschur, they wouldn't need to worry a thing about warranty as they can identify and fix any problem themselves, and can get parts equal or better than the broken parts for reasonable price and not inflated MSRP price. But for consumers who may not even know how to change oil, this can be a big issue.
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 08:26 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by sl0ev0
p.s i know people that beat there cars out the box and they drive fine.
Same here. I think break-in is WAY overrated. I'm not saying it's not nessacery, but I think some people put too much emphasize on break-in. I'd say take it easy to let the clutch brake in, bed in the pads and have fun. Don't beat the snot out of it, but 3k rule is a little much. I'd change the oil at 1500-2000 for the first oil change or two, then go to a 3000-5000 schedule
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 10:37 PM
  #21  
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well, alot of discussion over how to break in the car. Either you baby it, so the oil can get to certain places, or you rip it to get a good seal on the pistons

As for me, i drove it around city and would only shift it to 5k every once in a while, so its a mix of granny and ripping.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 04:55 AM
  #22  
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Smashing one of the rear windows and reaching in to unlock is usually the way I see it done.

p.s. On a completely separate topic.... If you want to know the best way to break in the engine, then I would say just follow the users manual. When the engine is installed in the chassis, it already has been broken in on a engine dyno to seat the rings and what-not.

Last edited by 92gsxbaltimore; Oct 17, 2008 at 04:58 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:21 AM
  #23  
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Most likely your engine has been already been broken in by the people that drove the car before you (at the factory, dealer, people that load them in the train/ship/truck/etc). You know those guys beat on them.
But you'll want to seat those rings as quickly as possible. When I built the engine on my GVR-4 I followed the MototuneUSA break in procedure. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

So far I've put over 2k miles on it and it runs like a champ and compression is great.

Pre Break-In
1) Set the boost as low as low as you can
2) Use regular motor oil and an OEM filter. I used Valvoline.
3) Prime the engine as normal.
4) Start the car with the clutch slave cylinder unbolted from the bell housing and the clutch start switch deactivated.
5) Hold the RPM at 1500-2000rpms until the motor is fully warmed up ~5 minutes.
6) Set the timing and install the clutch slave cylinder.
7) Changed the oil/filter


Break-In
8) Two pulls from 3k to 6k at 25% throttle. Let off at 6k and let the engine slow you down while in gear. Do not hit the brakes.
9) Two pulls from 3k to 6k at 50% throttle. Let off at 6k and let the engine slow you down while in gear. Do not hit the brakes.
10) Two pulls from 3k to 6.5K at 75% throttle. Let off at 6k and let the engine slow you down while in gear. Do not hit the brakes.
11) Two pulls from 3k to 7k at 100% throttle. Let off at 6k and let the engine slow you down while in gear. Do not hit the brakes.

12) Went back to the shop and changed the oil filter.
13) Turned up the boost and started driving it normal.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:29 AM
  #24  
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I clicked this and thought he was asking how to break into an Evo.

Then I was like, "So this guy is gonna steal an Evo then ask when to change the oil?" I shouldn't be on forums this early

I don't know about the break in period, since my was already broken it when I got it; but I changed my oil after 2500 miles for my first, then every 3k after.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:25 AM
  #25  
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I've asked countless people how the break-in should be done, and they've all told me nearly the same thing. Drive it how YOU are going to drive it. Meaning if you bought the car to baby it, baby it during the break-in. If you bought the car to smash on it, smash on it during the break-in. Of course, I'm between both, so I went into boost, but nothing above 5k RPMS for the first 1k miles. (Warrtalon also recommended this) Once I hit 1k miles, I changed my oil and let her rip.

I specifically remember someone from Buschur telling me to break it in the way I'm going to drive the car.

I've also heard that break-in period is used for the driver to get used to the car.
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