Does anyone know why you can not cut (resurface) drilled or slotted? Is it because the material they are made of or because the slots?

 

Slots or holes will grab the lathe, hence, cannot be cut.

 

I dont see why. I mean, the lathe is set at one point. I would of thought it would just be noisy. I cut the drilled ones for my r6 (I was broke). Not saying your wrong at all. I was just curious. Thanks

 

I don't think you understand how the rotors get turned.

They are mounted into the lathe. Then the lathe is set to the inside of the rotor and the mechanic starts the machine. It spins the rotor and then lathe works it way outwards. The mechanic can adjust how much to cut off.

If slots or holes are there it will catch in the lathe and either chip the lathe cutting tool, chip the rotor, or get stuck and freeze the motor on the machine.

 

I cut them. I just have not cut drilled or slotted. figured it would get the best of the tip quikly but did not think it was impossible. Thanks for the info. I guess someone that upgrades breaks and drives an evo should not worry about taking shortcuts. Right? lol

 

I currently have the HAWKS HPS and don't really like them; specially for Auto X- does not brake that good and the noise is horrible even on Daily driving. I will probably upgrade to slotted Brembos next week since Im hittin Auto X on that Sunday. Any suggestions for pads besides the HAWKS?

 

I've cut slotted rotors before... it's a ***** and I don't recommend it, but it's not impossible, and with enough skill and effort the rotors are smooth and usable.

 

I have to agree on the 2 peice setup..Just the heat dissapating capability is worth the cost alone. After running a new setup, the difference from a 1 peice slotted was pretty impressive. I only have a front set installed, the rears are the same ones I ran with last season. Overall braking was much more consistant and predictable with about the same stopping "feel" on a similar pad compound. But the recovery time from hard braking to hard braking is really amazing with the 2 peice. I could run faster and much deeper into the corners every lap of the session instead of having to slow down for a few or even pit. And when I finally did overheat them,they were back in a few corners instead of the next session..I'm keeping them !!. Have to do the rears now to. Pete

 

Seems like with the right gear and a suitably trained tech, definitely possible:

~ Cutting Drilled And Slotted Rotors: (Pro-Cut brake lathes)
http://www.procutinternational.com/p...ttedrotors.pdf

~ CarQuest Tech Bulletin:
http://www.carqueststores.com/common...QB%2003-05.pdf
Excerpt:

Of course, I'm sure most places would rather just sell you a brand new set...

 

Do the hawk pads and the slotted rotors make a big diff? Or could you notice after just the pad swap?

 

at one time i changed my stock rotors to slotted/drilled rotors and kept the stock pads and didnt nottice as much difference, as compared to one time when i upgraded pads and kept the stock rotor. the pads made a more notticeable difference because they are griping better.

But also keep in mind that subsequently Hawk pads(and the likes) will wear out your rotors quicker. its a give and take.

 

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Just a carry on from this topic..
Brembo 1 piece slotted or spend the money and get 2 piece rotors??

I've been going DBA4000s (aussie stuff so you guys might not have heard of it), but I wanna get the Brembo sports since i've been having trouble with these rotors.

But i've been looking at:
1) Brembo sports
2) PMu 2 piece rotors

Reason for uncertainty is the 2piece are alot more expensive for now, but if i think about future, it's cheaper since its cheaper to get just the rotor, instead of hat and rotor.

Suggestions on what to do?? :S

 

what trouble have you been having with the DBA4000s? warping? what kind of driving do you do? what kind of pads are you using? this all factors in.

the initial cost of 2 piece rotors is higher than one-piece rotors, but the lifetime operating cost could be lower. I always say buy thinking Long Term, if you plan to keep the car anyway, and or driving it hard.

 

You can turn slotted rotors folks. As long as the operator of the brake lathe knows enough not to try to take off more than a few thousands at a time.

If the rotors are turned to the point the slots are gone the rotors are too thin anyway.

Brembo has a very high quality rotor. It uses good metal in its casting and doesn't have problems of compatability with many different braek pad compounds. Believe it or not, brake pad compatability can be a real issue that manifests itself as if you have warped your rotors when in fact pad material has formed uneven deposits on the rotor.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Pads and which one to use can vary all over the map. It depend upon just what you are looking for in braking. Street braking has very different needs than a road racing track. If you are doing track then I would say consult with the folks at http://www.porterfield-brakes.com They don't just sell Porterfield brakes and they have a huge experience with track pads.

For the street you should consider Satisfied GS pads. They give terrific bite right off the get go and don't dust bad. Tire Rack sells them along with some excellent Brembo sloted rotors.